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Old 04-08-2013, 01:49 PM   #1
AnolaBob
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inverter/generator

Greetings all,

I'm looking for some dry camp power. The Yamaha 2400W generator that looks to suit my needs offers (Total Ampere (rated / maximum) 16.7 / 20 @ 120V). The specs on the Carrier A/C unit on our 28 RLS Sydney operates at 13-15A, presumably the 15A is for start-up. Does this sound right and if we convert to LED lighting can we have a few lights on while the A/C is cooling down the DW?

Does anyone have this setup and can it run all night in 75-85'F weather?

Thanks in advance,

Bob

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2008 Outback Sydney 28RLS, all LED
Mor/ryde pin box
Honda EU200i generator
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:11 PM   #2
JRTJH
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Do a forum search for "YAMAHA GENERATOR" and you will find a number of posts concerning your question.

Specifically, if you click on this link it will take you to a thread where I addressed exactly what you're asking. http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...ghlight=yamaha

The answer, in a nutshell is <NO, it will not reliably run your AC and the minimum trailer electrical systems at the same time>
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:26 PM   #3
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A good starting point would be to get an ammeter and see what the "quiet" load on your system is...

And by quiet load, I mean the converter, fridge and a few lights.... Nothing more (except the typical 12v phantoms - radio, detectors, etc)

Remember this too, the converter will step down the charge rate after a period of time.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:43 PM   #4
raytronx
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I have a pair of Champions 2000W units that can parallel to 4000 peak and 3200 continuous and I feel it is the bare minimum for running the AC and still charging the batteries and running small loads at the same time.

Even with 3200W in really hot humid weather the generators will overload sometimes.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:02 PM   #5
AnolaBob
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WOW.

I can't thank you guys enough. You just saved me $2100.00.

I did not consider the phantom load, but I was sold on what I saw with others testimonials about what a great unit it is for MY needs.

So gentlemen, I currently own a 2900W peak, 2300W continuous generator.

Based on what you guys are saying I should leave that one at home and bring the 6500 if I want to be cool and read a book while having a cold drink from the fridge?
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2008 Outback Sydney 28RLS, all LED
Mor/ryde pin box
Honda EU200i generator
2013 Ram 2500 Cummins Larimie Longhorn
2013 Can Am 1000 XMR, T4S tracks and 2011 XTP quads, snow plow
'68 Chevy Pickup w/502
Bud and Blu, the black dogs
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #6
JRTJH
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LOL, No you don't need 6500 watts to run the AC, reefer and a few lights, but you do need to consider the converter/charger and how it affects your power needs. If you dry camp, in most areas, you can only run the generator for a few hours a day. This means that as soon as you apply 120VAC, you will be tasking the charger to "top off" the batteries. Doing that will use anywhere from 500 to 1200 watts, depending on the charge state of your battery bank. It's true, when the batteries reach a specific "partially charged state" the converter/charger will step down and power requirement will decrease. That may take anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 or 4 hours to occur.

That's why Dometic, the manufacturer, stipulates a minimum of 3500 watts to run their 13,500 BTU AC when installed in an RV. They go on to say 5000 watts for an RV with 2 AC's on the roof.

The typical rooftop 13,500 BTU AC compressor draws about 11.5 to 12 Amps and the fan motor draws 2.5 Amps. That's 14-14.5 Amps during operation. Starting current demands are higher, but are based on ambient temperature, compressor charge and a host of other factors. When you break that down to watts, you're looking at the AC using 1680-1740 watts. Add half the watts from the converter (+/-) and you're looking at 250-600 watts. Then add, let's guess, 150 watts to run the reefer, a few lights and the "silent load" (CO monitor, LP monitor, stereo memory, etc) and you can see where it's real easy to need 2000 watts just to plug in the RV and turn on the AC on a good day. Add an extremely hot, humid day when the kids are opening and closing the RV door, wanting to stay inside and play XBox on the TV and you can easily imagine a 2500 watt demand before you know what's happening. Sure, the Yamaha 2400 watt generator is rated at peak output (2400 watts) for up to 20 minutes, but after that, you're back down to about 1950 watts sustained power output. That's barely enough to run the AC by itself without even having the charger operational.

Will it do it? Under ideal conditions, probably, at least for a while. Is it good practice to overload a wire-wound alternator for any longer than absolutely necessary? They fail miserably when abused, so no, it needs to be used within design tolerances to prolong its usable life. I hear stories of people using a Honda 2000 generator to power their AC. Others use what you're considering, a 2400 watt generator. In all honesty, they will work, at least for a while, but as you said, it's a $2100 mistake to think it will provide sufficient power to operate an RV "over the long haul"
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:12 PM   #7
AnolaBob
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Well, again I say thanks.

A few years ago we were looking at serious flooding here so I bought a 6500W and lately the 2900W. Both are getting too heavy for the DW to carry ( I'm kinding I help too). It makes sense to throw the bigger unit into the back of the diesel and have plenty of power for the 5er.

Since I started with this forum shortly after we purchased the Sydney last June I have both read and received very valuable information from good people.

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2008 Outback Sydney 28RLS, all LED
Mor/ryde pin box
Honda EU200i generator
2013 Ram 2500 Cummins Larimie Longhorn
2013 Can Am 1000 XMR, T4S tracks and 2011 XTP quads, snow plow
'68 Chevy Pickup w/502
Bud and Blu, the black dogs
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