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Old 07-06-2013, 06:46 PM   #1
normshot
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Repair or Replace?

I have a 2003 Springdale that I paid $5k for 3 years ago. I have discovered some floor rot under the closet and in one wall. The water heater just started leaking this weekend. I can replce the water heater ($325) myself, but the other repairs are likely to cost much more. Everything else works fine.
The question is, is it worth spending the money to repair it, or trade it in on a newer model? What is the life expectency of a trailer?
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:04 PM   #2
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I see some 1970's vintage travel trailers for sale on Craigs List and some of them really are ready for the "RV boneyard" while others are in pretty good shape and would work perfectly for some types of RVing. So, I guess there's not really a "time frame" when "it's ready to retire" so much depends on the condition which dictates if it's worth keeping around.

The Springdale is a wood frame RV that sits on a steel chassis. Years ago, nearly all RVs were built that way, but more and more, aluminum or molded fiberglass seems to be the preferred method. Since your RV is essentially a wooden box, it is sujbect to water damage that affects the structural integrity more than a metal frame RV.

RV repair is not cheap, and when you consider having to "hire out" all the repairs, the cost to restore the water damaged areas (if they are as extensive as you lead me to believe) would cost more than the RV is worth. That being said, the value of any RV is not what the book says it is, rather it's what you think it is worth to you. Many people sincerely like the RV they "grew up with" and don't want any other floorplan, features or other frills. They are comfortable towing and maintaining the one they love and simply think it's the only one that's right for them. So, to that person, the cost to repair may be a "good investment" where to someone who looks at their RV as a "stepping stone" to something bigger when they can afford it, investing a large amount of money and time in an RV that they are going to sell in a year or so probably would be money better invested in a down payment on that "next RV" now rather than next year.

To give you an example of RV repair cost, a tree fell on our fifth wheel in early June. Repairs included a new roof, rebuilding the trusses, new vents, skylights, A/C and TV antenna. The total came to a bit more than $10,000. Yes, that's 4 zeros after that one LOL So, my guess would be that repairing your water damaged and rotting RV would be at least half that much and probably more. The only way to know is to talk to an RV service manager, let him look at it and offer his "best guess" at cost to repair. Understand fully that it's a "best guess" and that once he opens the walls, sees what's really there, the cost will probaby increase. How much depends as much on luck as on damage

Once you talk to a couple of repair facilities, then you'll be better equipped to make the decision whether to trade, dispose of it or repair it.
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:49 PM   #3
Ken / Claudia
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I have repaired 2 campers, one alot of water damage the other not so much. Like any other water damage repair, you will not know how much needs replaced until you remove walls and floor in the area you know is bad. If you can repair your house, you can do the trailer. If you pay a shop, you will never get the money back at time of sale.
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:50 PM   #4
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Post water damage

I have a similar issue. I have a 2003 cabana 2490 with water damage in two corners under access doors of course isolated just to that area. I'm very good with wood but my question is how the body is attached to the wood in those areas and can I do it all from underneath or do I have to remove from top down.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:35 AM   #5
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Without seeing your damage and exactly where it's located, I would guess that the most probable manner to reach your damaged area is from the inside out. Removing the inner walls is much simpler than removing the outside skin, however, when you do that, and make the repairs, make sure you seal the source of the leak before you consider the job complete.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:59 AM   #6
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The damage is in the OSB board flooring under the laminate which sets under rear bunk bed. Area is about 12 inches by 20 inches and Possibly the support against the outer wall that is a straight line between the tire and the rear steel beam support for bumper. I think that my awning lower support is secured to it. Thanks for your reply any advice is appreciated.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:24 PM   #7
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I would think the only way to know what's damaged is to start removing inner walls/flooring (of course the cabinets and beds, etc will need to be removed first). Then, as you peel the layers away, the framework will be visible. Once you know what's damaged, then you can proceed to make a plan to repair.

At this point, without knowing what is damaged, what is good and what is "iffy" there's really no good way to proceed. As in most anything you do, define the objective (know what you need to do) before you try to make a plan to accomplish the objective.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:07 PM   #8
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rolltide

Thanks for the info. This is our first camper other than this issue its an amazing camper with 4 bunks 2 fulls and a queen pull out in a 24 ft trailer. Do you have any advice as to what to watch for in the coming years. It was serviced very often by prior owners. Thanks for any advice
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:15 AM   #9
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It appears that you've already learned about water intrusion. That's the reason for the soft floor and possible sidewall issues. On today's campers, whether wood framed or aluminum framed, water is the biggest problem. The rubber roof is "guaranteed" for 12 years, but nothing is said about the sealant around the roof structures. They need to be carefully inspected and resealed as necessary... Never NEVER NEVER NEVER[B] use silicone. Use DICOR or a comparable sealant. Also inspect the windows. Sealant used behind the window flanges will dry and crack. When this happens, water droplets on the sidewall can flow into the wall cavities. You may never see that water inside the camper, but it will cause significant damage as it sits inside the wall. So, also carefully check the sealant around each window. If it appears cracked, dried or damaged, then pull the window and clean off the old sealant and replace with fresh butyl sealant. It comes on a roll, 3/16" thick and 1" wide at most camper supply stores. Always start applying new butyl tape at the bottom center of the window. Pay attention to the area above the awning rail for stress related damage and loose screws. Reseal as necessary. Always check the compartment door latches and seals for water intrusion. Remember the compartment doors are really "windows" into your RV storage compartments, reseal them as necessary. Lubricate and reseal the TV antenna regularly.

Tires need to be inspected before and after each tow. Maintain pressure and balance tires. They should be replaced every 4 or 5 years regardless of condition (ST tires). Repack wheel bearings annually, replace grease seals when repacking. Check and adjust brakes when repacking wheelbearings. inspect spring hangars and supspension components, underside of RV and conditon of the tongue A-frame before use.

Inside, keep a sharp eye for any staining on the ceiling, walls or floor. Maintain the plumbing system to prevent leaks. If your water pump comes on for a few seconds at odd times, that's an indication that there may be a leak somewhere. Check it out !!!

This is just a quick overview, there are numerous maintenance tips contained in threads on the forum. In fact, someone created a spring checklist, a winterization checklist and a pretravel checklist, so do a forum search for those.

Good luck.
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:36 AM   #10
hankaye
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rolltide, Howdy;

Quote:
Originally Posted by rolltide View Post
Thanks for the info. This is our first camper other than this issue its an amazing camper with 4 bunks 2 fulls and a queen pull out in a 24 ft trailer. Do you have any advice as to what to watch for in the coming years. It was serviced very often by prior owners. Thanks for any advice
You might like to check-out this series of videos. He also locates and restores
a vintage trailer from the 60's or early 70's. Walks you through it step-by-step.
http://rvvideosondemand.com/?page_id=256

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