OEM/Reese Elite Hitch, heads up.

Javi · 11-07-2015, 01:33 PM

I had to remove the hitch from my truck bed to carry a big screen TV from the store to home. When I lifted it from the Pucks I noticed that the base pads were very loose.

I really don't know if they worked loose or if the installers didn't re-tighten them when they swapped the hitch to the dually. I know they were tight in the old truck.

It isn't a big deal to tighten and re-adjust the puck locks, you just need a 1-1/2" box end wrench and about 30 minutes.

Thought I'd suggest y'all check them before your next trip. Probably wouldn't be much fun if the hitch popped out at 60 mph.

Javi · 11-08-2015, 12:08 PM

On the other hand. .... just went over to the trailer and double checked the Ground Control 3 and the auto level to make sure it was functioning properly after having to reset it all.

Got more retirement practice coming up next week.

Brantlaker · 11-14-2015, 08:01 PM

Javi, I had to readjust mine from the factory and the last 2 trucks maybe they get a little worn or the bed sits a little different. But I check them every time I reinstall the Hitch.

grampscamper · 11-15-2015, 06:03 AM

Javi, I would agree. Mine were loose after dealer installed my hitch. I tightened them once and they never came loose again. I check mine every second or third tow.

**JRTJH** · 11-15-2015, 09:39 AM

OK, for my "clarity".... Javi, are you talking about the "base pads" on the hitch assembly or are you talking about the "base assembly" that's located on the "crossmember rail" under the bed, the part that the hitch pins slide into, that secure it to the frame of the truck?

grampscamper · 11-15-2015, 11:18 AM

My anchor pins on the base of the hitch needed adjustment. I assumed that's what Javi reffered to. I could be wrong.

**JRTJH** · 11-15-2015, 11:27 AM

I've got a CURT hitch, not a Reese. I had to adjust my "pins" on the hitch so they would "lock down tightly" when it was new. I've checked them a couple of times and haven't seen any loosening (once adjusted, the nuts are held in place with cotter pins and I don't think they will loosen any significant amount). THIS IS ON THE HITCH, NOT THE TRUCK...

I haven't crawled under the truck to check the bolts/rivets that secure the undercarriage to the frame. While I haven't noticed any "looseness" when I install or remove the hitch from the bed of the truck, if there's "something else" that could be loose, I'd like to know what it might be........... So, that's pretty much my question.... What was loose???

grampscamper · 11-15-2015, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I've got a CURT hitch, not a Reese. I had to adjust my "pins" on the hitch so they would "lock down tightly" when it was new. I've checked them a couple of times and haven't seen any loosening (once adjusted, the nuts are held in place with cotter pins and I don't think they will loosen any significant amount). THIS IS ON THE HITCH, NOT THE TRUCK...

I haven't crawled under the truck to check the bolts/rivets that secure the undercarriage to the frame. While I haven't noticed any "looseness" when I install or remove the hitch from the bed of the truck, if there's "something else" that could be loose, I'd like to know what it might be........... So, that's pretty much my question.... What was loose???

I agree "pins" only. I have the factory 5th wheel prep kit. I can't imagine that it could come loose. It's quite a substantial setup where it bolts to the frame of the truck.
Maybe Javi will clarify.

Edit: I just checked my truck. There are no bolts that I can see on the frame that would require a 1-1/2" wrench. The locking pins on the hitch require a wrench that size. All the bolts on the truck have locking nuts. Wouldn't likely come loose.

Javi · 11-15-2015, 05:17 PM

Okay... The Reese/Ford OEM Elite 5th wheel hitch has 4 pucks which are attached to plates which in turn are attached to the frame of the truck... This ain't got nothing to do with them...

What this is about is the actual Reese/Ford "Elite" 5th wheel hitch... the part that mounts to the puck in the bed...

That part has a pad that sits on top of the puck in the bed... Big round thing...

That thing has a 1" threaded shank through which the cam lock passes... That 1" threaded shank has a honking big nut on it that requires a 1-1/2" box end wrench to tighten... The installation instructions explain all this..

Anyway... that big nut seems to come loose every now and then and since it hold the cam lock in the blame thing... whoooo boy

So if you got one of these hitches and ain't got you a 1-1/2" box end wrench, you best be getting you one PDQ..

This nut is what is used to adjust the hitch to fit the pucks.. then you got to tighten the 1-1/2" nuts.... then remove the hitch and install the cam locks then you adjust the individual cam locks..

Don't take all that long... but it sure would be a pain in the butt if the whole thing come-a-loose while you was towing...

**JRTJH** · 11-15-2015, 05:47 PM

Thanks for the explanation, Javi. I thought you were talking about the hitch attachments but wasn't sure. CURT built their hitch so that it is adjusted during initial installation, then the "castellated nuts" are held in place with cotter pins through each nut. (much like the hub nuts on trailer spindles). Once installed, adjusted and cotter pin is installed, I don't think mine will work loose. I wonder how big a problem Reese will have in the future?

I appreciate your "heads up" and hopefully I won't find anything loose on my hitch......

jsmith948 · 11-19-2015, 06:01 AM

Given the large diameter of these bolts/shanks, I wonder if you could drill holes through them and then replace the nuts with castellated nuts with cotter pins?

**JRTJH** · 11-19-2015, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsmith948

Given the large diameter of these bolts/shanks, I wonder if you could drill holes through them and then replace the nuts with castellated nuts with cotter pins?

You probably could do that, but if you have a warranty on your hitch, I'm sure that would put you in "no man's land" should anything happen to your hitch and you need repairs. It sounds like Javi's issue is an isolated event and as he said, it could be that the mechanics who switched his hitch from the old truck to the new truck didn't tighten them properly.

If I were you, I wouldn't modify your hitch without knowing that you have a problem. Javi's finding may not even be a "hitch related" issue.

I'd just check it occasionally and if there is a problem, notify Reese and see what they say. If it is a problem (and not a mistake when Javi's hitch was installed) Reese may already be working on an "upgrade." You wouldn't want to modify your hitch and make it "ineligible for factory support"......

jsmith948 · 11-19-2015, 07:48 AM

I totally agree. My hitch is a Reese slider mounted on industry standard rails. I was just sort of thinking out loud

Larry1013 · 11-20-2015, 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grampscamper

Javi, I would agree. Mine were loose after dealer installed my hitch. I tightened them once and they never came loose again. I check mine every second or third tow.

You cna download the Manual from Reese. It shows how to adjust the pegs.

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/dow...ion/N30142.pdf

grampscamper · 11-20-2015, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsmith948

Given the large diameter of these bolts/shanks, I wonder if you could drill holes through them and then replace the nuts with castellated nuts with cotter pins?

Mine did come with the nuts with pins. I think my dealer didn't take the time to adjust it properly. I only adjusted mine once. It hasn't changed since. I do check my hitch and pinbox bolts every second or third time to insure everything is still tight.
I had to tighten my pinbox bolts once also.

Javi · 11-22-2015, 04:05 PM

These pictures might explain it a little better, but there is no way to use a Castle nut on the 1" thread..

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