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Old 06-20-2015, 08:44 PM   #1
Rweb
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Suburban hot water issues

Hi everyone,
So been having trouble with running my hot water heater on electric since last year now. So this year before our trip in a couple weeks I decided to replaced the electric element. I have replaced the electric element, and I still get no hot water.

Does it matter how the wires are hocked up on the element? As far as I could tell, it did not. Any other suggestions? The breaker is on, power is on.

Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2015, 09:06 PM   #2
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Was the old element burned out???? Is the rocker switch on the heater on???? You are correct ... the wires can be either way. Was the tank full before you put power to the element???? Have you pressed both reset buttons?????
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:10 AM   #3
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Lets start with What model do you have? Just closed a thread yesterday on similar issue. May want to read this

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22713

in addition may want to do a search on "Suburban"

Heating element has no polarity
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:26 AM   #4
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Do you actually have power at the terminals of the element. I know you said the switch and breaker are on, but it sounds like you have no power to the load.
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:33 AM   #5
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Hey everyone. Thanks for the replies. I was using tapatalk yesterday when looking for answers and do you think one that previous thread would come up. I did find it after posting my question. I will try reading that read, I will try some of those suggestions and post back my findings and if I need any help.
The other element had to be burned out as I tried the breaker, and the reset switch. I am wondering if it's the little black switch outside that might be wore out?

Again, thanks, and sorry for posting another topic of the same thing.


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Old 06-21-2015, 12:20 PM   #6
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Update: I changed the rocker switch because I figured that must it. Now, the water doesn't seem to be ice cold anymore. But, not luke warm. Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks.


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Old 06-21-2015, 12:24 PM   #7
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What is your model number? How long has it been on?
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Old 06-21-2015, 12:29 PM   #8
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SW6DE and it's been on for about half hour or more now.


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Old 06-21-2015, 12:58 PM   #9
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If you recall in the referenced thread that model only has a switch (you replaced) the heating element (you replaced) and a high limit switch and thermostat. If I recall you said it did not work on electric, you replaced those parts and water is no longer cold. Not sure exact time the HWT to reach 130 degrees, temp of incoming water is a large factor. I assume the new element you put in was the correct size, if I recall it was 1440 watts.

I would wait a little longer.
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Old 06-21-2015, 03:27 PM   #10
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We had an issue with our unit a couple years ago, and it turned out being the thermostat/high limit switch. This is a very easy item to replace, with the power off, two wire spade connectors to remove, and a nut/lock washer to remove from the stud. Install the new one in reverse order. These parts are under the black plastic cover that has the rubber buttons. One of the parts is 12 volt, for the gas side, and the other is 120 volt for the AC electric side.
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:22 PM   #11
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Thanks for the replies Paraptor and bobbecky. Turns out it was user error on my part after changing out the switch. Don't I feel like an idiot now! The switch I changed out didn't have on and off on it, and I apparently didn't wait long enough for the water to get hot enough. It's working well now. Thanks so much for the info. This is a great forum with a wealth of info.



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Old 06-21-2015, 06:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky View Post
We had an issue with our unit a couple years ago, and it turned out being the thermostat/high limit switch. This is a very easy item to replace, with the power off, two wire spade connectors to remove, and a nut/lock washer to remove from the stud. Install the new one in reverse order. These parts are under the black plastic cover that has the rubber buttons. One of the parts is 12 volt, for the gas side, and the other is 120 volt for the AC electric side.
That was what was wrong with mine, and it is an easy fix, however, it's apparent that the OP does not have the electrical knowledge to check voltages and get down to the bad component. I think to continue to suggest things to look and and check is putting him in a potentially dangerous situation and that the issue would be better resolved by a professional. JMHO
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Old 07-05-2015, 05:30 AM   #13
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Have to ask, how often do you guys drain water heater and replace anode rod? Only reason I ask is had same problem on my previous camper with 12 gal suburban heater. Replaced switch with no luck. Drained water heater to replace element and found rod needed replacing with a lot of sediment in bottom. Learned a lot that day. Gonna start draining n flushing heater every year and replace anode rod.
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Old 07-05-2015, 06:25 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by puresilver66 View Post
Have to ask, how often do you guys drain water heater and replace anode rod? Only reason I ask is had same problem on my previous camper with 12 gal suburban heater. Replaced switch with no luck. Drained water heater to replace element and found rod needed replacing with a lot of sediment in bottom. Learned a lot that day. Gonna start draining n flushing heater every year and replace anode rod.


There is a comment in the Suburban Owner's Manual suggesting that the anode rod be inspected every year. A part of the winterization procedure is to remove the anode rod, drain the water heater and flush sediment from the tank. There is also this quote in the manual:

"To extend anode life, drain water from tank whenever RV is not being used. Avoid any extended time of non use with water in tank."

The water in some areas is much more prone to causing anode deterioration (and thus producing sediment) than in other areas. We have a significant mineral content in our well water and have a water softener/filter system installed in our home. I use that filtered water to fill the fresh water tank, but the city water used in campgrounds also flows into the water heater. So, whose to know what the quality of water in the water heater really is at any given time? I've changed to an aluminum anode rod which lasts longer than the magnesium rod, but if we are going to store the trailer for more than a few days, I pull the anode and drain the water heater. I've found that the anode rod will last longer and I have less sediment at the end of the year if I don't leave water in the water heater during extended storage (more than a week or so) through the camping season. I also completely drain, flush and then vacuum any remaining water from the tank during winterization.
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