Caulking was a breeze

[Terrydactile]

Just wanted to let everyone know that Pro Flex brand caulking is FANTASIC. Based on recommendations from fellow RVer's I purchased some Pro Flex RV caulk to fix a leak my rig had developed around one of the outside storage doors. Of course my rig is one that Keystone used the dreaded silicone caulk on so ALL of that had to be removed. I was dreading the removal because I knew how tough silicone is. I did a lot of research on removal techniques. For me this worked best;

1) I decided that removing the door frame from the rig would allow for better and more complete removal of old silicone. I would find out that removing what ever I what to remove silicone from is going to be the best way. That is if it is removable.

2) Using a single edged razor blade I carefully, at a very flat angle, ran the blade under the silicone to remove the bulk of it. Being very careful not to nick the smooth finish of the filon exterior. That left a very thin film (paper thin or less) which also had to come off. Nothing sticks to silicone. It does not even stick to itself, so it all must come off.

3) To remove the leftover film I use a rag soaked in stove fuel (coleman fuel). I first checked to see if it would damage the filon exterior before going any further. It does not bother it at all. Now, the fuel does not remove the film but it softens it to the point where you can rub it off. The technique I used was to wipe the film with the fuel soaked rag, then hold the rag onto the film to allow the fuel to soften the silicone.

Out of all the things I tried this seamed to work the best. Although silicone is difficult to remove, especially that last little bit of film, I was very pleased with the results.

4) I then re-installed the door frame using Pro Flex caulk. This stuff is beautiful. It goes on smooth and is extremely easy to tool while its curing. Just a finger dipped into some soapy water and smoothing it to the contour of the joint was perfect.

Just thought I would share my experience. BTW most of what I did was learned from researching on forums like this one.

Now to do a little recaulking on some of the roof joints that have cracked.

Scott

[hankpage]

Part of my job is replacing shower and tub enclosures, most of which have been installed or re-caulked with silicone. A heat gun (or hair drier) softens it safely and anything left wipes away with WD40 on a rag. If you use gasoline (Colman fuel ) be sure to vent storage areas well so there will be no pockets of fumes. If you want you can remove WD40 with soap and water or alcohol but most exterior caulks are not affected by the mineral spirits left by WD40. You definitely did the right thing buy getting rid of the silicone. Nice job, Hank

For the roof I use Dicor self-leveling sealant.

[Terrydactile]

Hey Hank, Do you think using a heat gun or hair dryer on filon bonded TT walls would effect that bond? Isn't WD-40 primarily fish oil and mineral spirits? I'll have to try that. Would be less flamable than fuel, although the TT is in the open, unplugged, battery disconnected and all the battery operated detection devices are disabled.

Definitly going to use the Dicor self leveling on the roof. Found a loose screw up there too.