Electric jack advice

[TopoTony]

I’d like to swap out the manual crank on my 174RK Hideout. Spec says 4060lbs. I’m assuming a 4000 lb rated unit would work since we’re not talking about lifting the entire trailer. Am I wrong? Fully loaded it specs to about 5020 lbs.

Then, the other consideration is when I need to lift my truck a little to get the hitch weight distribution bars installed or removed.

Help understanding what capacity electric unit to get, would be most appreciated. There’s a 4000 lb one on the Amazon prime day special, but I’d like to make sure that will work before I grab it. Thanks

[chuckster57]

The tongue jack only has to lift the tongue weight. If your trailer GVWR is 5000 pounds then the tongue will be at most 15% or 750 lbs. with that said your jack only needs to lift about 1000 pounds so the 4000 one on sale will be more than enough.

[TopoTony]

Thanks Chuck…I was thinking along those lines, but, this being my first trailer, everything is new to me.

[NH_Bulldog]

My trailer GVWR is 7,000 lbs. and I tow with a 3/4 ton truck. My Bulldog (purely a coincidence) power tongue jack is rated at 3,500 lbs. and it’s more than adequate to lift the trailer and rear of the truck when hooking up.

[TopoTony]

Thanks Rob..I've ordered the one on sale...should make my life a bit easier without having to lift by hand. Now I've gotta figure out how to combine the wiring to my battery with an inverter that I got for off-grid camp spots.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

My trailer GVWR is 7,000 lbs. and I tow with a 3/4 ton truck. My Bulldog (purely a coincidence) power tongue jack is rated at 3,500 lbs. and it’s more than adequate to lift the trailer and rear of the truck when hooking up.

Our trailer came with an LCI tongue jack. It struggled and sounded constipated when running. It failed in 6 months. Warranty replacement was just as bad. I replaced it with the Bulldog with the remote, it's 4,500 lbs IIRC. I didn't need that much capacity but wanted the remote.

With a self installed back up camera, air bags with dash controlled pressure and the remote jack I can hitch up in seconds without issue. I back up to put the ball under the hitch, then air up to raise the back up to get the ball in the coupler while simultaneously lowering the jack. Then I set the bars in the saddles and chain on the up brackets. Hit the raise on the remote while applying a little up pressure on the up brakets until they easily seat.

To me it makes hitching/ unhitching easy and safe as there's no need to have anyone in-between truck and trailer while they aren't secured. Just my prefrence and experience.

[TopoTony]

Thanks...the remote sounds like a great idea. I guess I will try the one I've ordered, and if it proves to be of questionable integrity, send it back within the 1 month free return deal.