Need a list. - Page 2

**flybouy** · 09-08-2020, 03:31 AM

If you want to leave the gray tank open then arrange the drain hose to create a trap. You will need to put a "dip" in the hose (U shaped) of sufficient dip to hold water in the bottom of the U so air cannot pass.

If the blank tank drains via the same hose then close the gray tank until near full before dumping the black so you have enough gray water to "chase" the black water thru the "U".

BeagleMan · 09-08-2020, 07:18 AM

UPDATE:

First off, thanks to everyone who chimed in and helped me out.

First, got the cable and TV working now. Evidently the coax was not fully tightened to the TV.

Working good now. Next, and I have not tried it yet, is the DVD player.

Second, I think I'll just leave the Grey Tank closed. I'm totally down to what wiredgeorge said. Did my first dumping yesterday and it went well. Although the red hose that was in the unit before has a teeny tiny spring leak found when emptying the Grey sink tank. That will be replaced easily.

Third, My Furrion oven is not lighting up. How would I drain the air out of that for the pilot to function? I have seen videos where they drain the air out and light the pilot on the bottom, but there is no access under oven. How would I know its even on? Honestly, have not tried it personally, just going by what the wife said.

Fourth, I am looking into the VPN thing. I will get those for my 2 phones and laptop. If its a downloadable aspect, I can get it done.

Lastly, ordered some Stabilizer blocks as I did not want to perfectly level my TT with just blocks of wood. I am level now, but, I will feel better when i have what I want in possession. X Chocks will go the tires then.

Thanks again! I love these forums!

wiredgeorge · 09-08-2020, 07:52 AM

On the oven issue, turn on a burner and hold down till you smell a little gas. It takes awhile for the air to be purged and some of that depends on how long your gas line is relative to the tank. You might first go out and check the propane tank to ensure it isn't turned off. It would help if you went to the UserCP on the black bar at the top left of each page and set up a signature with your camper year/make/model as well as the same for your tow vehicle. I can't recall what type camper you have but many have two tanks and both should be left ON and the regulator in the center position. The tanks will have gauges to show if they are empty and when one empties if the regulator is left in the center position, propane will flow from the other tank. If you see RED on the gauge, the tank needs refill. If your tanks are over a certain age, you need to find a refill place that is certified to re-certify the tanks. I have a 2002 and of course have had to get re-certification done on both my tanks.

As already noted elsewhere, X-Chocks are NOT chocks and loosen when the tires loose pressure after cooling. They are for stabilizing the camper. They are fine as long as the wheels are actually chocked. I use RUBBER chocks as I have run over the plastic variety and they are toast after being squished. You need to put the chocks in place prior to unhooking especially if you have a fifth wheel as you raise the front a bunch when unhooking. Also put your parking brake on on the truck.

BeagleMan · 09-16-2020, 09:01 AM

My wheels are 14" wheels. Any need to upgrade to a 15? What does that entail?

wiredgeorge · 09-16-2020, 09:32 AM

This is actually a pretty complicated question. It would probably be of more benefit to describe your current tires; make/model, load range and date code. Often going up one load range will give you a little more margin but your current tires may be adequate and you will be burning money. Going 14 to 15 inch means new rims and unless you change hubs (starting to get expensive) you will be using the same 5 lug bolt pattern on the 15 inch rims and likely will be rated up to a Load Range D. I have Load Range E tires on my 15" rims and am technically filling with more air than their rated capacity I think but have never had a rim fail due to inflation. If you currently have Load Range D tires and go to a 15" rim with Load Range D tires, not much of an upgrade as I see it.

**sourdough** · 09-16-2020, 02:31 PM

Unless you are going to bump the trailer to max gvw (7600) the 205/75r14LRD tires should do fine. At approx. 2100lbs capacity at 65psi it would give you 8400lbs. IF (which I don't like to do) you deduct 912 lbs. from the gvw for tongue weight (7600 x 12%) it leaves 6688 theoretically on the tires.

That trailer has a carrying capacity of 1688 lbs. I don' know (recall?) if you have a large family or just a couple but that would be quite a bit of stuff. Maybe accumulate it over time though - I haven't made it there.....yet. So let's say you carry about what I do...maybe 1300lbs. That leaves the trailer at 7212 vs tire capacity of 8400 (1188 lb. reserve capacity) or approx. 16.5% reserve.

If you you had a bit larger trailer it would be worth the expense of going to the 15s (new wheels etc.) but where you sit I would not spend that money just for even more reserve capacity IMO.

tundrwd · 09-17-2020, 08:07 AM

Regarding wifi - as has been noted previously, if you want to do much more than get email, and some 'net surfing - I wouldn't count an ANY streaming.

Couple of possibilities...

I tried to check your N300 router, but there are so many "N300" derivatives for Linksys, I'm not sure what you have. It MIGHT be possible to "bridge" the N300 to the campsite's internet, but that only comes in one of two flavors:

You bridge the N300 to the campsites wifi, but need to hard wire everything else in your camper.
You bridge the N300 to some cabling (hard wired) in the campsites internet, and you could connect to your N300 using wifi.

IF (big if for the N300) the router supports a VPN connection, you might set up your router to VPN to the campsites internet, and then connecting to your N300, you have "some" protection. At that point, you relying on your wifi encryption to keep your communication "safe". (I'll just point out here - anyone who really wants anything on the internet can pretty much get it. Might take a nation-state actor - but the Chinese and North Koreans are really going after money - so they aren't JUST hacking governments).

But using your N300 will just cause another link in the chain that will slow you down somewhat more, and another link to break.

So - your best bet is to get software VPN ON YOUR DEVICES. I'd recommend something like NordVPN. I would not recommend the Norton crap being peddled. Norton quit being good stuff after it was sold to Symantec in the late '80s and early '90s.

Another possibility is to get a 'hot-spot' from AT&T/T-Mobile/Verizon and go with that. But that really depends on having a good 4G/LTE cellular signal to get any speed. Or, if you do get good speed - might check into using your cell phone as a hotspot too. Probably require a different cellular plan (you WILL eat up data - more than you think).

So that's about all I can think of/recommend.

RoadToad · 09-17-2020, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeagleMan

Well, turning on the Menu button did not help, but I am assuming after I get the open ports closed off, it might change. I'll let you know.

Wiredgeorge, thanks for your input. A lot of that I knew, just not the VPN. My release valve openings for both tanks are well within my reach without having to crawl underneath, but I thank you for the tip and link. Device on wall says Grey 2 and Black tank are 2/3rds full. Looks like I am dumping tomorrow. But, one question, I read somewhere where this lady suggested just leaving the Grey 2 tank valve open all the time because we are camped here for a while. Could we not do that and the Grey 2 tank would just continually drain to the septic tank my hose is connected to? Or, would I have to keep it closed?

Might be OK to leave Grey open; but do not leave Black open; otherwise all fluid drains and leaves a pile of solids built up.
We keep all valves closed. When we dump the Black at 75%, we like to have the Grey available to "washdown" the Black residuals in the dump hose.
Then, run the Black tank flush fresh water hose connected device.

wiredgeorge · 09-17-2020, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoadToad

Might be OK to leave Grey open; but do not leave Black open; otherwise all fluid drains and leaves a pile of solids built up.
We keep all valves closed. When we dump the Black at 75%, we like to have the Grey available to "washdown" the Black residuals in the dump hose.
Then, run the Black tank flush fresh water hose connected device.

One thing I know for certain is that small gnats live in sewers; leave a gray valve open and you might have a chance to observe this in your camper.

Mikelff · 09-17-2020, 12:08 PM

As mentioned previously, it is possible to leave the GREY tank valve open if you find you are filling your grey tanks often. If you do, you need that p trap in your drain hose, or a u in the hose as to not let sewer air back into your tanks and eventually into you trailer. When you start getting close to emptying your BLACK tank, close your grey tank valve and let it fill so you you have grey water to flush your hose after you empty your black tank. Depends on how often your grey tanks fill up. Since you will be on site for a few months, you might want to do this. I have some 44 gal. Grey and black tanks and our family/grandkids fill those grey tanks often so if we are going to be in one spot for any length of time, I keep the grey open until I am getting close to empty the black. If you empty your grey tanks twice as often, or more, than the black, you might consider keeping the grey open.

BeagleMan · 09-17-2020, 01:30 PM

Yes, after talking with a few folks, in the know, I feel my best option right now is to not upgrade. I will, however, be looking to upgrade my suspension system. Thank you for your valued opines.

BeagleMan · 09-17-2020, 01:38 PM

Thank you sir, for that. Learned a few things in there. I am not fixed on that particular router, just the one that I have now. If I can upgrade, I will. For certain, will be adding VPN software to our phones. Been using my hotspot to generate better wifi here and seems to be working fine and secured. If I need to increase our data, we will. Only other question I have now is, how can go about getting a hardwired set up here? After Covid and the subsequent loss of my career, and at 56, I am not so inclined anymore of ever working a physical site job any longer. I have decided that I will heavily pursue remote/virtual jobs online until I retire. I'm too old to start over again. How can go about getting a hardwired set up here? Most, if not all, remote type places want a hardwired setup.
Thank you

BeagleMan · 09-17-2020, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoadToad

Might be OK to leave Grey open; but do not leave Black open; otherwise all fluid drains and leaves a pile of solids built up.
We keep all valves closed. When we dump the Black at 75%, we like to have the Grey available to "washdown" the Black residuals in the dump hose.
Then, run the Black tank flush fresh water hose connected device.

Nah. I'll stick to keeping them closed and dump when needed. Thats how I do it now. Just like you said.

BeagleMan · 09-17-2020, 05:16 PM

AC is FIXED!!! Glory be!!! Ended up being the control board on the inside of the interior unit. Soooooo, we got a local guy AC guy who knows about RV stuff and he had a wonderful idea. He has been working on FEMA trailers here in Florence and decided to kidnap one off the trailers and took one and replaced it with ours.

In essence, we got a brand new unit since the FEMA units were the same model as ours. We paid him and we will get the money reimbursed. But, bottom line is, it is working and it is cool as a turtles basement in here. So, it all worked out!

**sourdough** · 09-17-2020, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeagleMan

AC is FIXED!!! Glory be!!! Ended up being the control board on the inside of the interior unit. Soooooo, we got a local guy AC guy who knows about RV stuff and he had a wonderful idea. He has been working on FEMA trailers here in Florence and decided to kidnap one off the trailers and took one and replaced it with ours.

In essence, we got a brand new unit since the FEMA units were the same model as ours. We paid him and we will get the money reimbursed. But, bottom line is, it is working and it is cool as a turtles basement in here. So, it all worked out!

That is great to hear. Glad you got it fixed.

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