Dometic refrigerator thermal fuse blown

[GoingPlaces]

While we were on or last trip, the thermal fuse on our Dometic 2872 refrigerator blew. I was able to diagnose the issue while we were away and make a field hack/fix. I cut out the blown fuse and tied the wires together. I'm not recommending that fix, but it did get the unit working and beer cold.

Now I'm trying to find a replacement fuse. The original blown fuse is DF152S and labeled as rated for 152C. Most of the replacement fuses are rated for 157C. Does anyone know what the letters in the fuse indicate? I've found an SF152E (funny still rated at 157C). Or better yet, does anyone know if the SF152E is compatible with the original DF152S? How big a deal is the 5C difference, I'm assuming not much.

I suspect the reason it blew was high exterior heat (104F) while running in the propane mode. I want to make sure I get a compatible fuse, so I don't cover up any real (other than high outside temp) issue with the refrigerator.


Any thoughts would help......
Thanks in advance

[markcee]

Here is the fuse I replaced mine with last year. I have same model fridge. It was recommended by another member and is the 157* rating. I’ve been fighting heat issues with this fridge since I’ve had the trailer. In the AZ heat I rarely make it more than an hour or two on the road before the propane shuts down. I routinely need to reset the thermO fuse prior to hooking up to shore power and switching to electric mode. Once on SP, no further shutdowns.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07Y6...haWwp13NParams

[CedarCreekWoody]

The 152 and 157 refer to temperature in degrees Celsius.
I blew mine last year in 112 degree Arizona desert. The recommended temporary repair (by a mobile tech on the phone) was to replace it with a regular 15 amp inline fuse. I did this until I received the Amazon fuses.

[markcee]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

The 152 and 157 refer to temperature in degrees Celsius.
I blew mine last year in 112 degree Arizona desert. The recommended temporary repair (by a mobile tech on the phone) was to replace it with a regular 15 amp inline fuse. I did this until I received the Amazon fuses.

As an electronics imbecile, I am very curious about this. Since the thermal fuse is obviously temp and not amperage controlled, what is the difference between eliminating it altogether (as OP did) vs. introducing a 15 amp inline fuse? Is there a correlation between measuring excessive temp and amperage?

I would think - most likely in error - that the 15 amp fuse does the same thing (nothing), as removing the blown fuse and splicing the wires together.

Interested to hear the explanation!

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by markcee

As an electronics imbecile, I am very curious about this. Since the thermal fuse is obviously temp and not amperage controlled, what is the difference between eliminating it altogether (as OP did) vs. introducing a 15 amp inline fuse? Is there a correlation between measuring excessive temp and amperage?

I would think - most likely in error - that the 15 amp fuse does the same thing (nothing), as removing the blown fuse and splicing the wires together.

Interested to hear the explanation!

The difference is, in case that wire should short out to ground, the 15 amp fuse would blow before it could overheat and start a fire. It is just an added safety thing. The 15 amp fuse would not blow from high ambient heat like a thermal fuse does. That it is why it is only a temporary fix.

[GoingPlaces]

Originally Posted by markcee

Here is the fuse I replaced mine with last year. I have same model fridge. It was recommended by another member and is the 157* rating. I’ve been fighting heat issues with this fridge since I’ve had the trailer. In the AZ heat I rarely make it more than an hour or two on the road before the propane shuts down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07Y6...haWwp13NParams

Thanks, that fuse is the SF152E I found also, I'm trying to determine the difference between the SF and DF letters on the fuse. The fuse you linked to is most likely the one I'll use, since I don't seem to be able to find a DF152 model. It may be just fine, but my over analytical brain won't leave it alone.

[GoingPlaces]

So, after some research I believe I have determined what the leading letters stand for.

DF (used by the DYE company and was my original fuse) uses a Thermal Pellet technology

SF (used by other companies e.g. Schott) also uses Thermal Pellet technology

SM uses a Fusible Link technology and is only used in low current applications

I have not yet figured out what the trailing letter indicates, but I'm beginning to think it is electrical current range.

What that means to me is the SF thermal fuses should work, provided the current/wattage ranges are similar.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by GoingPlaces

So, after some research I believe I have determined what the leading letters stand for.

I have not yet figured out what the trailing letter indicates, but I beginning to think it is electrical current range.

What that means to me is the SF thermal fuses should work, provided the current/wattage ranges are similar.

The trailing numbers are thermal rating. See post 3.

[GoingPlaces]

Thanks for your response but, I understand what the NUMBERS are, it was the LETTERS I was trying to determine.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by GoingPlaces

Thanks for your response but, I understand what the NUMBERS are, it was the LETTERS I was trying to determine.

Oppps, my apology.