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Old 08-05-2022, 08:59 AM   #1
GoingPlaces
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Dometic refrigerator thermal fuse blown

While we were on or last trip, the thermal fuse on our Dometic 2872 refrigerator blew. I was able to diagnose the issue while we were away and make a field hack/fix. I cut out the blown fuse and tied the wires together. I'm not recommending that fix, but it did get the unit working and beer cold.

Now I'm trying to find a replacement fuse. The original blown fuse is DF152S and labeled as rated for 152C. Most of the replacement fuses are rated for 157C. Does anyone know what the letters in the fuse indicate? I've found an SF152E (funny still rated at 157C). Or better yet, does anyone know if the SF152E is compatible with the original DF152S? How big a deal is the 5C difference, I'm assuming not much.

I suspect the reason it blew was high exterior heat (104F) while running in the propane mode. I want to make sure I get a compatible fuse, so I don't cover up any real (other than high outside temp) issue with the refrigerator.


Any thoughts would help......
Thanks in advance
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Old 08-05-2022, 09:13 AM   #2
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Here is the fuse I replaced mine with last year. I have same model fridge. It was recommended by another member and is the 157* rating. I’ve been fighting heat issues with this fridge since I’ve had the trailer. In the AZ heat I rarely make it more than an hour or two on the road before the propane shuts down. I routinely need to reset the thermO fuse prior to hooking up to shore power and switching to electric mode. Once on SP, no further shutdowns.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07Y6...haWwp13NParams
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Old 08-05-2022, 11:44 AM   #3
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The 152 and 157 refer to temperature in degrees Celsius.
I blew mine last year in 112 degree Arizona desert. The recommended temporary repair (by a mobile tech on the phone) was to replace it with a regular 15 amp inline fuse. I did this until I received the Amazon fuses.
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Old 08-05-2022, 12:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
The 152 and 157 refer to temperature in degrees Celsius.
I blew mine last year in 112 degree Arizona desert. The recommended temporary repair (by a mobile tech on the phone) was to replace it with a regular 15 amp inline fuse. I did this until I received the Amazon fuses.
As an electronics imbecile, I am very curious about this. Since the thermal fuse is obviously temp and not amperage controlled, what is the difference between eliminating it altogether (as OP did) vs. introducing a 15 amp inline fuse? Is there a correlation between measuring excessive temp and amperage?

I would think - most likely in error - that the 15 amp fuse does the same thing (nothing), as removing the blown fuse and splicing the wires together.

Interested to hear the explanation!
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Old 08-05-2022, 12:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markcee View Post
As an electronics imbecile, I am very curious about this. Since the thermal fuse is obviously temp and not amperage controlled, what is the difference between eliminating it altogether (as OP did) vs. introducing a 15 amp inline fuse? Is there a correlation between measuring excessive temp and amperage?

I would think - most likely in error - that the 15 amp fuse does the same thing (nothing), as removing the blown fuse and splicing the wires together.

Interested to hear the explanation!
The difference is, in case that wire should short out to ground, the 15 amp fuse would blow before it could overheat and start a fire. It is just an added safety thing. The 15 amp fuse would not blow from high ambient heat like a thermal fuse does. That it is why it is only a temporary fix.
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Old 08-06-2022, 06:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markcee View Post
Here is the fuse I replaced mine with last year. I have same model fridge. It was recommended by another member and is the 157* rating. I’ve been fighting heat issues with this fridge since I’ve had the trailer. In the AZ heat I rarely make it more than an hour or two on the road before the propane shuts down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07Y6...haWwp13NParams

Thanks, that fuse is the SF152E I found also, I'm trying to determine the difference between the SF and DF letters on the fuse. The fuse you linked to is most likely the one I'll use, since I don't seem to be able to find a DF152 model. It may be just fine, but my over analytical brain won't leave it alone.
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Old 08-06-2022, 07:57 AM   #7
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So, after some research I believe I have determined what the leading letters stand for.

DF (used by the DYE company and was my original fuse) uses a Thermal Pellet technology

SF (used by other companies e.g. Schott) also uses Thermal Pellet technology

SM uses a Fusible Link technology and is only used in low current applications

I have not yet figured out what the trailing letter indicates, but I'm beginning to think it is electrical current range.

What that means to me is the SF thermal fuses should work, provided the current/wattage ranges are similar.
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Old 08-06-2022, 09:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoingPlaces View Post
So, after some research I believe I have determined what the leading letters stand for.

I have not yet figured out what the trailing letter indicates, but I beginning to think it is electrical current range.

What that means to me is the SF thermal fuses should work, provided the current/wattage ranges are similar.
The trailing numbers are thermal rating. See post 3.
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Old 08-06-2022, 11:02 AM   #9
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Thanks for your response but, I understand what the NUMBERS are, it was the LETTERS I was trying to determine.
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Old 08-06-2022, 11:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoingPlaces View Post
Thanks for your response but, I understand what the NUMBERS are, it was the LETTERS I was trying to determine.
Oppps, my apology.
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Old 04-03-2023, 04:06 PM   #11
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I just wanted to add to this thread. I had my thermal fuse blow today...totally my fault as I had left some steel wool in the hot water burner (for mice/storage). Although I basically flicked the switch on/off in seconds there was some "blow out" of the flame.



First I remembered this thread and diagnosed the problem...bug found some info from a video that was true in my case.





Is the video that I watched after figuring out the problem. I noted what this person stated that recently he had seen a number of these thermal fuses installed incorrectly. In my case, the fuse was almost directly over the "furnace port" (don't know what it it is called). So it was done out of the factory.



When installing the new fuse I made sure the wiring was rerouted a bit...and bought another fuse to have as a spare.
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Old 04-03-2023, 04:34 PM   #12
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Another excellent safety feature that can help protect your fridge and your rig is the ARP Fridge Defend. We've had one installed since 2015, and our fridge has not had any issues and keeps cold. https://www.arprv.com/
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Old 04-03-2023, 06:50 PM   #13
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The difference between a thermal fuse and regular amperage fuse is quote simple

The thermal fuse reacts to temperature versus its temp rating and the amperage basically means nothing

I would not run a regular fuse in a circuit that was designed to have a thermal fuse


YMMV
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