Help with adding an inverter..shunt, etc.

[roadglide]

OK in the video he wired directly to his converter. What I did was pull the Breaker box out and wired 2 15 amp breakers for the lights and receptacles and plugged into my 3000 W inverter that’s way more power then I need . I have a 75 A MPPT controller charger . I do have to watch the refrigerator on auto it will go to ac and the 4 amp draw from the frig will pull the 3 115 ah agm batteries down on a cloudy. It’s ridiculous flipping Swift‘s to make a solar system work like the op did in his video .

[chuckster57]

See your PM’s

[TopoTony]

Thanks for that...I'll definitely get 2 6v's when my 12's die, but they are only a year old. However, I *did* buy this Hideout from a total doofus a couple months after he bought it new. So, I cannot be sure he didn't degrade them. Guess I'll have to look into how they can be tested for current capacity.

At this point, however, the 12's are wired parallel, so I'll probably go with your example of using it directly. I like the idea of the volt meter. I see them on amazon, but they don't specify "push to activate". I just have to figure out how to get behind the control panel to scab on to the wiring...or maybe there's another place I can gain access to the DC.

This all sounds great...nothing fancy. Mostly, I need to power our eBike battery chargers. Thanks again for your thoughts.

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I have a pair of GC2 6 volt batteries with a small (500 watt) inverter that I use to power the television when we're dry camping. It's connected directly to the batteries ....... I have a "push to activate" LED voltmeter mounted to the wall adjacent to the control panel in the trailer. It's wired to the battery power wiring that powers all the switches in the trailer control panel.

..... and total cost was around $100 for everything (except the batteries). It's worked for the past 7 years and I'd expect it to last until we no longer have this trailer.

[chuckster57]

If you look at the power distribution panel, one side will have all the 12V fuses. Remove the cover and you’ll find 2 large lugs with battery cables. White is ground and black or red is positive.

[JRTJH]

Here's a LED voltmeter with a "power switch". I bought mine 7 or 8 years ago, so that one is definitely outdated on Amazon and no longer available. This one has a voltage or battery "discharge status percentage" (probably based on voltage, not amps used). While it's not a "push to test" spring loaded to off mechanism, it can be turned off to save energy when not in use.

https://www.amazon.com/Voltmeter-Wat...305226135&th=1

[TopoTony]

I just got this installed today. I pulled the control module, that has the water pump, hot water switch, gray, blk, fresh water and the useless battery charge indicator... and tapped into the hot and grnd. Worked perfectly. I used those great WAGO connectors.

Next is getting the inverter into the storage bay, but we'll be at a full hookup park on the upcoming trip, so not in a hurry.

Thanks for the meter advise.

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Here's a LED voltmeter with a "power switch". I bought mine 7 or 8 years ago, so that one is definitely outdated on Amazon and no longer available. This one has a voltage or battery "discharge status percentage" (probably based on voltage, not amps used). While it's not a "push to test" spring loaded to off mechanism, it can be turned off to save energy when not in use.

https://www.amazon.com/Voltmeter-Wat...305226135&th=1

[chuckster57]

Sounds like your making progress. Enjoy your trip.