Driveway angle

[Jengiemulkey]

We purchased a 287qbs in February. Great trailer, the only issue is when we back it up our driveway the rear stabilizers drag on the concrete. To resolve this we have to place 2x6 board under the tires as we slowly back it up until it reaches a point where the rear is angles steep enough to not drag. Aside from tearing out and pouring a new driveway does anyone have any recommendations?

[tech740]

What about relocating the stabilizers forward a little to make it so they don't drag? Obviously not a far distance because that will negate the purpose but a small move may fix the issue.

[LewisB]

Can we assume the rig (truck+trailer) is currently sitting level? If the front of the trailer is high, you might need to lower the front by changing the hitch geometry.

Another option would be to remount or replace the stabilizers...provided they hang down excessively low (impacting departure angle). You would not want to do this if it puts the body of the trailer or the back bumper at risk. But if you have some space, you might look for lower profile stabilizers that don't hang down as low.

If that doesn't work, you could raise the trailer with larger diameter tires/wheels or a change in spring/axle geometry (e.g. taller springs, doing a spring/over conversion, etc.). The problem is that these types of changes could drastically change the dynamics of towing the trailer down the highway and might even be outside the limits of engineered safety in your trailer.

How about U-shaped "drag bars" in the back or "rollers" that extend down below the stabilizer jacks? These are more of a mechanical protection device but would not change your towing dynamics. Additionally, this type of change provides some protection for the steep driveway into/out of the local fueling station.

In the end, using the 2X6's in the driveway might be your cheapest and best overall option.

[Keystoned]

I've seen casters used also and considered some for my TT. Ended up replacing the stabilizers with low profile ones and making sure they were all the way up.

[flybouy]

I had this issue on a previous "lightweight" trailer that was 29' long. On that unit it would drag on our inclined driveway about 3-4 inches before the position of the truck raised it again. The rear stabilizer drug very lightly but I knew it would be problematic. I looked at RV castors and was surprised at the cost. While I was around Richmond VA I stumbled across a Northern Tool Store. I found very reasonable casters there. After installing them at the end of the frame I had no issues. I think they were 4" casters maybe total of 6" in hight.

That worked for me, you would need to take some measurements to see whatbyou need.

[gkainz]

I have to ramp up the tires on my 5er to get up my driveway as well.

[Customer1]

Before backing in remove the bars from the weight distribution hitch. It will cause the tongue to go down and the rear will go up.

[LHaven]

We have this problem at the bottom of our driveway, which unfortunately is 28 yards outside our property line onto DOT property, so we can't do a thing about regrading it. It's additionally annoying because we run a small RV park so other people encounter it. The blacktop on the US highway is pockmarked with chunks.

But we do have a rather wide apron down there, and a service road right outside our property line, so we advise our guests to make a small angle (almost straight) turn from the highway onto the service road. That orients the rig to take the big hump mostly laterally instead of front to back, so nothing scrapes. Then they can "just" back up past our entrance, and turn in from level ground.

It's easier on the way out, you just start from the driver's side of the apron and cut across it towards the right as generously as possible.

Maybe you could do something like that on your lot.

[Keystoned]

I think harbor freight might have some casters that might work also...

[JRTJH]

Before the "age of slides" nearly all trailers sat much lower to the ground, had wheelwells built inside the living area and they all (over about 24') had bumper skids welded to the rear bumper to keep it from scraping on "normal gas station ramps". There were several "mod kits" available at any camping parts store that bolted rollers on those skids. Most were 3" steel rollers and their purpose was to prevent the bumper skids from scraping on the concrete.

Then, along came slides, trailers "grew upward", the wheelwells were, for the most part, no longer intruding into the living space and the need for bumper skids and roller kits was eliminated for most trailers and for most "gas station ramps".

There are still some "long trailers/steep drives" that require roller kits or "ramp buildup" to navigate.

You might do a "google search" for "RV Bumper Roller Kits"

Here are some that are available at e-Trailer.com: https://www.etrailer.com/search/rv+skid+rollers

The "problem with most Harbor Freight" rollers is that they are only rated at 300-500 pounds. Most travel trailers weigh significantly more than that. The last thing you want to happen is to drag a RV across an incline with "HF rollers" and have them buckle under, catch on a crack in the concrete and rip the bumper off the trailer because the bolts holding them on are stronger than the rollers.

[Keystoned]

Yeah, that's probably why I went with low profile stabs after rolling one in Wyoming in NF land before the big eclipse of 2017.

[xrated]

Originally Posted by Customer1

Before backing in remove the bars from the weight distribution hitch. It will cause the tongue to go down and the rear will go up.

Ding, Ding, Ding........we have a possible winner here! That is thinking outside the box and very possibly not only a cheap fix, but easy too.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by xrated

Ding, Ding, Ding........we have a possible winner here! That is thinking outside the box and very possibly not only a cheap fix, but easy too.

Depending on whether it's also an issue elsewhere or not. It would be a PIA to have to do that to get into or out of a fuel station or situation like LHaven's campsite.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by xrated

Ding, Ding, Ding........we have a possible winner here! That is thinking outside the box and very possibly not only a cheap fix, but easy too.

Originally Posted by flybouy

Depending on whether it's also an issue elsewhere or not. It would be a PIA to have to do that to get into or out of a fuel station or situation like LHaven's campsite.

Remember, when you disconnect the WD bars, the hitch drops (which allows the rear of the trailer to raise...

So, dropping the WD bars may allow the rear of the trailer to clear that rise in the driveway, only to cause the "expensive electric tongue jack" to get ripped off or bent/buckled beyond repair....

BOTH ends of the trailer are affected when "doing a shortcut" so if you "raise the rear to clear" you also need to remember to check that "new, reduced clearance" on the other end.....

[hornet28]

Look at LHavens diagram. I learned long ago whenever possible take any entrance other than flat at an angle. The steeper the approach the more you need to angle. As low as my hot rod is approaching at an angle comes natural after all the miles I've driven it

[Trip]

I had the same issue. I purchased two heavy duty caster wheels and the place where we bought our RV mounted them on the frame just Ahead of the back bumper. It eliminated our problem.

[MrEnto]

Originally Posted by hornet28

Look at LHavens diagram. I learned long ago whenever possible take any entrance other than flat at an angle. The steeper the approach the more you need to angle. As low as my hot rod is approaching at an angle comes natural after all the miles I've driven it

I have to enter/exit my driveway at a very sharp angle to achieve the same thing. I had a small corner extension poured at the base of my drive to achieve the sharp angle, only about a cu yd of concrete added. Cribbing it up got old but worked.

[fordmd]

I had the same problem. It was slight, so for me just removing the load bars gave me the fraction of an inch I needed. Lowered the tongue a tiny bit and raised the rear of the trailer the same.

[firestation12]

I have air bags installed on the rear axle and a wireless remote controller to raise and lower the air bag pressure. It takes only a few seconds to raise and lower the ride height, which solved the backing into the driveway issue. Looking at LHaven’s aerial photo, and given the frequent need to deal with the change in road height, I’m wondering if a deal could be made to create an exit point from the highway sooner, which would allow a sweeping turn. I know, I know, dealing with a government agency isn’t easy. Just sayin. Happy Mother’s Day to all the DWs.

[Mr Mojo]

Originally Posted by hornet28

Look at LHavens diagram. I learned long ago whenever possible take any entrance other than flat at an angle. The steeper the approach the more you need to angle. As low as my hot rod is approaching at an angle comes natural after all the miles I've driven it

As the owner of several Corvettes, I always have to come in at an angle for my driveway. As for the trailer, I have no choice to come in at an angle due to me parking on the side of my house.