Jack-knife with equalizer, Slide-out manual overide

[bartbill]

2019 Cougar 22RBS new to me. Never pulled a pull type with weight distribution hitch (owner had to show me how to hook it up).

Couple of questions I could use some help with.

1. Should the equalizers be disconnected if have to make sharp backing turns. Saw pics of jack knifed trailers that twisted the hitch.

2. Anyone know where the manual overide connector is on the slideout.

Anyhelp appreciated.

bill

[sourdough]

What is the brand/model of the hitch?

[LHaven]

If you have a cable-drive slideout, the "manual drive" is a Robertson socket on the shaft of the motor, wherever that is. Mine's on the sidewall above the slide itself, behind a big wooden valance attached to the slide, pointing sideways, making it effectively useless.

[RagingRobert]

I have the 2018 model with no cables...the manual override for the slide is under the RV on mine...there's a removable panel in the coroplast which I've yet to remove and hope never have to Actually it's pretty dumb of me not to remove that panel yet and see what's in there and what I need just incase...I have all the sockets and a variable speed drill but I might need one of those flexible shafts to reach/turn the bolt/nut...I guess I'm avoiding crawling under the RV as much as I can
As for the hitch mines the Husky centerline friction sliding bar type which is okay to leave on when backing up. Some hitches have an add on sway bar which should be removed when backing up as well as those ones with the chains I believe?

[Martian]

Under the slide on mine also. Hope I never need it!

[RagingRobert]

I'll be honest, the one thing I worry about the most every time we go camping is when I hold the slide button in or out So far so good...I do crawl under there when we're camping to spray this RV slide lubricant all over the rails and gears...it's not to far to crawl and helps with the worry I/we have the old proven rack and pinion slide out system, very solid and popular. I do need to get under there and see how it's done manually and what I need one of these days...pretty sure that would help with the worry

[bartbill]

On a previous trailer it was said to disconnect the battery before manually moving the slideout. Reason being that rotating the motor the wrong way would send an electrical charge the wrong way and mess the electrical system.

yes/no. True/false.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by RagingRobert

I'll be honest, the one thing I worry about the most every time we go camping is when I hold the slide button in or out So far so good...I do crawl under there when we're camping to spray this RV slide lubricant all over the rails and gears...it's not to far to crawl and helps with the worry I/we have the old proven rack and pinion slide out system, very solid and popular. I do need to get under there and see how it's done manually and what I need one of these days...pretty sure that would help with the worry

If you look here:

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001614.pdf

Page 5 says not to lubricate and it may actually be detrimental. I just make sure mine are clean.

[RagingRobert]

Now you got me more worried Chuck so I went and found the can It's apparently special stuff that won't attract dirt. I spray it on the rubber seals around the slide as well. It seals, lubricates and protects...specially made for RV slides...I wouldn't think it hurts it?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by RagingRobert

Now you got me more worried Chuck so I went and found the can It's apparently special stuff that won't attract dirt. I spray it on the rubber seals around the slide as well. It seals, lubricates and protects...specially made for RV slides...I wouldn't think it hurts it?

So the advertizing worked, it convinced you.....

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by RagingRobert

Now you got me more worried Chuck so I went and found the can It's apparently special stuff that won't attract dirt. I spray it on the rubber seals around the slide as well. It seals, lubricates and protects...specially made for RV slides...I wouldn't think it hurts it?

I tend to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

[RagingRobert]

I think/hope they mean oily/greasy lubricates Chuck which dirt will stick to and cause a build up problem. When I look under there things look rusty and dry...when I spray this recommended quick drying silicon which was advertised well yes things look a lot better and the slide slides in and out nicely/quietly/smoothly. It keeps the rubber conditioned as well. Pretty sure I'm helping not hurting and there's nothing really to worry about I think/hope

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by RagingRobert

I think/hope they mean oily/greasy lubricates Chuck which dirt will stick to and cause a build up problem. When I look under there things look rusty and dry...when I spray this recommended quick drying silicon which was advertised well yes things look a lot better and the slide slides in and out nicely/quietly/smoothly. It keeps the rubber conditioned as well. Pretty sure I'm helping not hurting and there's nothing really to worry about I think/hope

There's another thread going right now discussing "gooey, sticky slide rubber seals"... The OP bought the trailer used and does not know what the previous owner used to clean/lubricate/dress the slide seals, but he posted that he spent a tremendous amount of time and effort to clean the "gunk left on the slide TPO roof" when he replaced the slide seals.

Keep in mind, we call them "rubber slide seals" but in reality, they are not "pure rubber" but a "rubber compound"...

That 3-N-1 dry silicone lubricant, according to the MSDS, is about 80% petroleum solvent. The can says, "Safe for all metal, rubber, vinyl and plastic"... But, the can does not say, "Safe for aftermarket or OEM rubber compounds used in RV slide seals. It might be OK to spray on slide seals from one manufacturer and the 80% petroleum solvent in the can may make another rubber compound turn into a "gooey mess"....

To me, not spraying anything from a "solvent can" on the slide seals is the best assurance that the product won't cause a "gooey mess".... YMMV

[LHaven]

Solvents are funny things. In my youth, I was asked to remedy a problem with hobby controllers that had plastic pushbuttons in plastic holes, which were getting jammed up with fine sand when participants dropped them on the desert floor. I had a choice of WD-40 or silicone lube. I reasoned that the petroleum in the WD-40 would attack the plastic, while the silicone lube would be more plastic-friendly.

Got it exactly backwards. The silicone lube welded those mothers up like airplane glue, while the WD-40 kept them running all weekend. Intuition doesn't always work on this stuff.

[RagingRobert]

I've been using that spray from 3in1 which is very respectful brand, at least every other trip...the sun is hard on black rubber or whatever it is...with the slide open and in the shade, I get on my step ladder and spray all the rubber flaps...no buildup of anything gooey on the rubber. It's like the black weather strip for your truck doors...I spray them as well with the proper stuff to clean and protect them no matter what kind of rubber it is...never just spray what you got lying around...it can start eating your fake rubber
Good story LHaven I would've went with the silicon as well thinking the sand wouldn't stick to it...you're sure that wasn't a silicon glue?

[MattE303]

I tried some of that purpose made slide rubber seal lubricant on ours one time and it made the rubber strips so slick that they wouldn't "flip" to the correct orientation when the slides went in/out. I had to clean it off to get them working normally again