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Old 09-22-2022, 12:39 PM   #1
hxckidd
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Adding a fridge Fan - Push or pull

So I did a couple of trips in 105-degree heat where my fridge wouldn't keep up... well no kidding my AC doesn't keep up either in that heat. I knew that going in. But I like to tinker so I thought I would add a fan for the fridge. Now the question becomes.

1. Mount a fan on the side vent below the fridge and push air in?
2. Mount a fan on the roof vent to pull air out?

Has anyone tested to see what works best? I purchased a Beech lane 12v fridge cooling fan kit with a thermostat from amazon. Pretty nice kit ready to go.
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Old 09-22-2022, 02:13 PM   #2
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Pretty much all the factory installed fans push air up and out.
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Old 09-22-2022, 03:17 PM   #3
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If you blow in, you inject much rain and dust. If you blow out, you only slightly increase the incidental rain and dust.
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Old 09-22-2022, 04:25 PM   #4
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I thought most external fans were typically installed at the base of the fins blowing up over the fins.
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Old 09-22-2022, 05:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
I thought most external fans were typically installed at the base of the fins blowing up over the fins.
Yes, when I installed mine it was a kit and I mounted it in the lower access area, blowing up. The freezer keeps Ben & Jerry ice cream frozen in 105 degree weather.
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Old 09-22-2022, 07:46 PM   #6
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We have the ARP fridge protection device that also controls the extra fans in our slide mounted fridge. This page shows how the blower fans they sell are mounted.(the drawings are looking from the inside of the grills) https://www.arprv.com/products.php#5-blower-fan-a
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Old 09-23-2022, 03:03 AM   #7
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That ARP device is awesome, worth looking into. For me the next step past the stock reefer is one of those 7cf electric jobs from Sam’s Club. For now, and being on a gubmint pension with an older rig, there are several videos on Youtube of techs installing fan motors like computer cooling-type or maybe those $15 bathroom fans talked about recently. I’ve seen them mounted in back and blowing over the fins. Anyone DIY this mod? Of course the kit made for the job is the way to go, it’s on the list behind new tires, a new Equalizer, two new Vortex fans and…. “I bought motorcycles, it was an expensive hobby. I bought a Jeep. It was a very expensive hobby. I bought an RV, so far the most expensive.. “ �� R.E.D. Friday.
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Old 09-23-2022, 04:38 AM   #8
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If you're working your way up the expensive hobby list then buy a boat that you can't trailer. If that isn't enough pain then buy an airplane and really feel the pain! I speak from personal experience

"There endith the lesson."
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Old 09-23-2022, 08:11 AM   #9
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if you want a money pit... get into offroad racing. Build-Destroy-build with more expensive parts-destroy. lol

The comment about pulling dirt in if the fan is on the side is an interesting point i didnt think of. I also am not 100% fond of just pushing air in that then has to find a 90degree turn to go up the back of the fridge. Today i am going to pull roof vent off and see if i can pull air through by putting fans up there and having it suck.
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Old 09-23-2022, 09:14 AM   #10
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The top vent has a screen to keep critters and stuff out of the cooling unit. I would be Leary of cutting it to install a fan. The base is a PITA to remove, ask me how I know.
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Old 09-23-2022, 09:47 AM   #11
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i have seen some just zip tie the fans to the vent to suck air through the system better. I am all to familiar with removing the base, I put a new roof on my other trailer last year. Wasnt hard, just a PITA
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Old 09-23-2022, 01:40 PM   #12
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Air, like water, electricity, non- motivated people, will take the path of least resistance. So placing a fan in a screen may end up with the air "looping around the sides of the fan. If the fan is placed so the exhaust is directly inline with the fins the air exiting the fan will go across the fins. Trying to pull the air across the fins without a shroud (like the radiator in your truck) may not be very efficient.
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Old 09-23-2022, 03:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
Air, like water, electricity, non- motivated people, will take the path of least resistance. So placing a fan in a screen may end up with the air "looping around the sides of the fan. If the fan is placed so the exhaust is directly inline with the fins the air exiting the fan will go across the fins. Trying to pull the air across the fins without a shroud (like the radiator in your truck) may not be very efficient.
too funny you mentioned this. As i mounted the fans on the top vent i ended up putting a shroud to fill the gap in the rest of the screen because I realized that while its sucking air, its easy for it to not suck from where it needed. I know people are going to say the fridge won't be able to vent its heat then.... no fear with the thermostat i can set it if it gets warm to kick on and move that heat out or just leave it on. Either way excited to try this out. You can feel it drawing air through the side vent cover now.
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Old 09-23-2022, 04:30 PM   #14
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I just upgraded my fans. Now freezer keeps ice cream hard. Refrig at 37 when 100+ outside.

I installed 4 small fans with a thermostatic switch for around $50. Fans are held in place with wire ties and screws.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147XFV54...roduct_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KXQT6DT...t_details&th=1

Also added baffle from outside wall to bottom of the fins and curved baffle on top of fins. Wire hanging down is thermal switch.

Middle row of vents lines up with fins. I covered bottom vent to force air to come through the fins. Also added small chain so when you remove vent it will hang without putting stress on the power connection.
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Old 09-23-2022, 07:06 PM   #15
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According to the engineer that designed and sells the ARP Fridge Defend system, the fan should blow up because a fan pushes better than sucks. Think about it, unless using ductwork the outgoing air is focused but the fan draws air from all over.
https://www.arprv.com/rv-fan-vent.php#lower-fan-install
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Old 09-24-2022, 07:59 AM   #16
Hblick48
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Originally Posted by Customer1 View Post
According to the engineer that designed and sells the ARP Fridge Defend system, the fan should blow up because a fan pushes better than sucks. Think about it, unless using ductwork the outgoing air is focused but the fan draws air from all over.
https://www.arprv.com/rv-fan-vent.php#lower-fan-install
Unless you force the air through the fins, air from fans will find their own path regardless of whether they push or suck. I still have 2 fans mounted below the fins pushing air upward. Because of the baffling that I fabricated, all of the air (pushing or pulling) is forced through the fins. The curved top baffle allows the air through the fins to blow outward without creating turbulences that would reduce efficiency. When all 6 fans run, the air blowing out if the top vent is hot. If that air is hot, the refrig is cold.
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:13 AM   #17
hxckidd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hblick48 View Post
I just upgraded my fans. Now freezer keeps ice cream hard. Refrig at 37 when 100+ outside.

I installed 4 small fans with a thermostatic switch for around $50. Fans are held in place with wire ties and screws.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147XFV54...roduct_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KXQT6DT...t_details&th=1

Also added baffle from outside wall to bottom of the fins and curved baffle on top of fins. Wire hanging down is thermal switch.

Middle row of vents lines up with fins. I covered bottom vent to force air to come through the fins. Also added small chain so when you remove vent it will hang without putting stress on the power connection.
Pretty trick set up.
I guess alot of location depends on access as well. For a trailer with a roof vent here are my thoughts.

So for what its worth, in my scenario mounting it on the bottom side vent was useless, it just pushes air into the lower portion of the fridge but did not direct air up into the void to flow over the cooling fins. It would of been difficult to make anything to direct air up as all the coils and gas line was up against the fans if i put them there.

My TT has a vent straight up through the roof. So it made more sense to mount the fans there sucking air up. I covered each side of the vent to make sure all air was being pushed through fans. So when they suck they are sucking from the void only. I will be testing this in 2 weeks, but i am happy with my decisions.
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Old 09-29-2022, 07:12 AM   #18
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I put one at the bottom of the vent that pulls air in, then another at the top vent blowing air out. Heat rises to bottom-in, top-out. There is not enough air flow to pull in rain as some suggested.
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Old 09-29-2022, 07:22 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
If you're working your way up the expensive hobby list then buy a boat that you can't trailer. If that isn't enough pain then buy an airplane and really feel the pain! I speak from personal experience

"There endith the lesson."
Everyone should own a hole in the water to pour money into. Otherwise there are guns, radio control, golf, off roading, classic cars, snow mobiling and numerous other money pits available. Been there done that.
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Old 09-29-2022, 07:29 AM   #20
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Sounds like you solved the primary issue, which is more air through the fins. I’ve watched many videos on this topic since our fridge initially couldn’t keep up with the heat either. There are many examples of folks adding flashing to better direct air flow through the fins.

Ours is a side vent since the fridge is in a slide so I placed fans in the top vent to pull air through the fins as well as remove collected hot air off of the top of the fridge. The net result is the same and fridge works fine in higher heat.

Also, the obvious, most important function of the freezer is the keep the ice cream hard. At least it is in ours…
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