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Old 10-18-2020, 03:51 PM   #1
edgarg
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Landing gear switch

I think I have a failed landing gear switch on my 2010 Raptor 300. This switch is on the outside at the front. Rocker switch activates the landing gear when you choose extend or retract. RV is at home thankfully and not on a trip. Worked fine then a few minutes later, motor does not respond. Fuse is OK. It seems to be a commercial 15 amp reversing switch. Any suggestions on a source?
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Old 10-18-2020, 03:57 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Are you sure the switch has failed? There is probably a resettable circuit breaker before the switch. I would verify voltage coming into the switch before I declared it dead.
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Old 10-18-2020, 04:00 PM   #3
edgarg
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There is a fuse but it has not blown.
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Old 10-18-2020, 04:45 PM   #4
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There is a fuse, but it first goes "through a DC mini-breaker" before it gets to the fuse. There are also 5 or 6 "Keystone crimped connectors" in that circuit before it gets to the switch. So, there's lots of conditions that could interrupt power to a "perfectly good switch" ...

Before "disassembling the switch, go to the back side of it, use a multimeter or test light and verify that you have 12 VDC on the center connector. When you press the switch up, that 12 VDC should also be visible on the top connector and when you press the switch down, that 12 VDC should be visible on the bottom connector... If the switch conducts power properly, then start working backwards to the battery. I've seen things like a bad crimped connector on the switch, bad contacts in the fuse holder, corroded internal components on the DC mini-breaker and even corrosion on the battery terminal cause the issue you have with your landing gear.

Lots to check before declaring the switch bad.....
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Old 10-18-2020, 06:57 PM   #5
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If you determine switch is bad here is one source complete with wire harness for what I think is the style switch you have... should be an IP style switch...ignition proof..

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Strom...-p/45-1611.htm

I’d bet you could source the switch itself without harness from Grainger
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:30 AM   #6
edgarg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
There is a fuse, but it first goes "through a DC mini-breaker" before it gets to the fuse. There are also 5 or 6 "Keystone crimped connectors" in that circuit before it gets to the switch. So, there's lots of conditions that could interrupt power to a "perfectly good switch" ...

Before "disassembling the switch, go to the back side of it, use a multimeter or test light and verify that you have 12 VDC on the center connector. When you press the switch up, that 12 VDC should also be visible on the top connector and when you press the switch down, that 12 VDC should be visible on the bottom connector... If the switch conducts power properly, then start working backwards to the battery. I've seen things like a bad crimped connector on the switch, bad contacts in the fuse holder, corroded internal components on the DC mini-breaker and even corrosion on the battery terminal cause the issue you have with your landing gear.

Lots to check before declaring the switch bad.....
Wow! Great advice! As suggested, I verified the switch had 12v and was reversing. Verified connection back to the battery. Disconnected the motor leads and jumpered back to battery. Nothing. Then I gave the driveshaft a little torque by hand and it started. Apparently debris or other issue had jammed the motor.
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgarg View Post
Wow! Great advice! As suggested, I verified the switch had 12v and was reversing. Verified connection back to the battery. Disconnected the motor leads and jumpered back to battery. Nothing. Then I gave the driveshaft a little torque by hand and it started. Apparently debris or other issue had jammed the motor.
Those gears are plastic and have a long history of "chipping a tooth" that can bind in the gears to "freeze the motor". When that happens, you can, as you did, move the gearpack by moving the motor shaft or the drive shaft and get it working again. Problem is when another tooth gets broken.... When you have time, do some good inspections on both gearpacks to see what really happened. If it was just the brushes hitting a dead spot and moving the motor armateur fixed it, great. If it was/is a problem with the gearpack, better to fix it while at the house than trying to find parts on a Sunday afternoon when you're late for campground checkout and have to be at work at 8AM "in the morning"..... BTDT...

Typically, that "chipped tooth in a gear" almost always happens at either the extreme UP or the extreme DOWN position on the landing gear travel. I found that it's best (for equipment lifespan) to mark the landing gear about an inch below max up and an inch above max down and never "stress" the gearpacks by powering them to the extreme and letting the motor torque stop travel. That's a sure way to "chip a tooth".....
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Old 11-07-2023, 07:00 AM   #8
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I have a switch issue: all the connectors came off the switch and I don’t know what goes where. I have a red, a black, an orange with a jumper and a black with a jumper. Six connections on switch, six connectors on wires. What goes where?
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Old 11-07-2023, 08:07 AM   #9
edgarg
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landing gear switch

I found that one terminal on my switch was loose causing it to overheat and char. I purchased a replacement switch from etrailer at a reasonable cost. Simple to replace after figuring out which terminals were for which color wire.
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