Big issue with Montana 3820FK

Salsaman1a · 04-03-2019, 04:39 PM

Looking for some advice..... I was opening up the slides to show my friends the layout of my 2018 Montana 3820FK (battery power). I started with the bedroom wardrobe slide, it opened all the way with no problem, and then everything stopped. All the buttons went dead. So, I checked all the connections and checked the autoleveling system for power; no reading, nothing, no power
Hooked up the power to my truck and nothing, turned the battery connection on and off and still nothing. Stepped on the brake pedal to see if the lights come on, yes. Called the RV dealership and they said it may be a dead or drained battery.

When I left the dealership (two days ago), they put in a new battery, and off I went. But at the dealership while doing through the systems, the autoleveling came up with a low voltage reading and that is why they changed the battery. Now everything is blank, off. Need help. No, I can’t connect land power to it.
And I will not manually close the slide.... HELP!!

Canonman · 04-03-2019, 06:38 PM

Welcome!
You mention battery as in single battery. "they put in a new battery" If you had 2 and they only replaced one then the other battery could be pulling the new one down.
It's very possible that when they replaced the battery they blew the 40amp polarity fuses in the converter. Very easy to do even for a dealer's service guy. Did they run the slide and verify the leveling system prior to your leaving?? Or just say we changed the battery and sent you on your way?

**chuckster57** · 04-03-2019, 06:42 PM

Remove the battery and test it. If it’s dead, charge it and then put it back in the trailer. Wait 1 day and using a Volt/Ohm meter, test the voltage at the battery posts. If it’s low then either the battery is bad or you have a draw.

The draw could be any number of things. And would require some testing with a DC amp gauge.

Canonman has given you great advice too..I’m not running on all cylinders this evening.

bobbecky · 04-03-2019, 08:20 PM

You need to make sure your battery disconnect switch, which will be in your convenience center, is closed, so the battery or hopefully batteries are connected to the panel and converter. If the switch is open, the red plastic key can be pulled out. It should be turned so the key can not be removed. If your battery is not fully charged, it will not be enough to operate the system. If the battery drains so low that nothing works, even if it's a new battery, it may be damaged and need replacement. You probably will need to get a generator to the rig to provide power to get it closed up. If the rig sits a long time without power, there are small power drains, LP sensor, and possibly there are a couple others, the battery will drain down too far to operate the leveling and slides.

Mikendebbie · 04-04-2019, 02:12 AM

I think you have hydraulic slides for your main slides. If so your OEM 50 amp breaker was tripped. You can reset it by pushing the blade style reset button. BUT - You should replace it with an 80 amp breaker and the problem will be resolved. Lots of discussion on this over on the Montana forum. In the pic below - the main breaker is the black thing on the back wall (left) just above the red positive pole with red wire connecting to it. Lippert recommends 80 amp in their documentation. Go to amazon and search for busman 80 amp breaker. I think mine was $35. Easy install. Take your batteries out and get them tested just to be sure...but replace the breaker regardless.

I had a subsequent issue with my slides acting irradically. Start stop. Start stop. Start stop. Initially suspected bad batteries (Deka group 27s) but they tested out fully charged. Tightening and cleaning battery connections (there was a bit of corrosion on one negative pole), ground connection to frame in battery compartment, and tightening connections on the hydraulic pump about a quarter turn (they were effectively “loose”) made it all work.

Mikendebbie · 04-04-2019, 02:14 AM

Here is a pic of my 80 amp breaker from amazon...
There are many types and manufacturers that will work. Some are auto-reset which is more expensive. Mine is red push button reset.

ChuckS · 04-04-2019, 04:51 AM

Your system is hydraulic... if the level up panel has no power at all and you have the “In command” system might try resetting the BCM...

However...if even with tow truck plugged in and you have NO power to control panel then you have other issues... blown fuses on converter , weak battery , etc will not cause the display to be completely dead unless that new battery you have is dead short...

The level up control panel gets its power from the Lippert forward mounted control module located inside your front cargo access door... look up high

It has a single red wire that goes directly to the battery to obtain 12 volts DC.. this is also what provides power to the control panel

With your tow vehicle also plugged in you should have DC to that control module... one way or another...

I’d be checking for blown fuse that’s in the red wire from battery to the Lippert control module in front compartment..

If it’s good measure DC at control panel module red wire...

If 12 volts present then disconnect Lippert level up control panel..
Single connection on back side of the panel and reconnect.

Do you have DC lighting available in the fifth wheel?

The 80 amp breaker will also have nothing to do with a dead display panel on the level up... it merely provides DC power from battery to the dual polarity solenoid and then to the hyd pump motor.

Also the battery disconnect switch will not affect operation of the Lippert control panel... the system is directly wired to the battery and does not pass thru the battery disconnect circuit...

7Iron · 04-04-2019, 06:21 AM

Mike,

Doesn't the 7 pin connection to the TV bypass that breaker?

and I edited to add

and bypasses the battery....?? I have always assumed that the 7 pin went to the fusebox and then to battery for charging....and if so then I would not be looking at the battery, as nothing worked with the 7Pin.

But my assumption appears to be wrong based on everyone thinking it is the battery.

fatcatzzz · 04-04-2019, 06:31 AM

chuckster57 is right about charging the battery and testing. You can also take the battery to almost any auto parts store and they can load test the battery. Your battery would not be the first to come from the factory with a defect,

Snoking · 04-04-2019, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikendebbie

I think you have hydraulic slides for your main slides. If so your OEM 50 amp breaker was tripped. You can reset it by pushing the blade style reset button. BUT - You should replace it with an 80 amp breaker and the problem will be resolved. Lots of discussion on this over on the Montana forum. In the pic below - the main breaker is the black thing on the back wall (left) just above the red positive pole with red wire connecting to it. Lippert recommends 80 amp in their documentation. Go to amazon and search for busman 80 amp breaker. I think mine was $35. Easy install. Take your batteries out and get them tested just to be sure...but replace the breaker regardless.

^^^^ This!!! Chris

MarkEHansen · 04-04-2019, 12:16 PM

How long was the battery sitting since the last time it was fully charged? It may be quite reasonable that it be dead if it's sat long enough. As others have pointed out, there is some parasitic draw on the battery even when you have the battery cut-off selected (so the battery is cut off).

Also, if the battery was allowed to go full dead, it may have been damaged to some extent. Normal deep-cycle batteries don't like to go below about 50% charge.

The charge and load test recommended by others would be my first action, followed by troubleshooting of any remaining problems after that's been resolved.

Auggie Waterman · 04-09-2019, 07:54 AM

One of the most useful things I"ve ever purchased is a Klein Tools electrical test kit for $39 from Home Depot. Comes with a multimeter, a non-contact voltage tester and a receptacle tester. The instructions are clear and easy and it allows you to check batteries for voltage and amperage, test wires and breaker box for voltage and shorts, and test receptacles for any type of fault they may have like ground or neutral issues. Allows testing of DC and AC, super useful!

ChuckS · 04-09-2019, 09:40 AM

Well he must have got it fixed

**JRTJH** · 04-09-2019, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckS

Well he must have got it fixed

The OP made the first post in this thread 4/3/19 at 8:39 and edited it at 8:41. He signed off immediately after the edit and has not logged onto the forum since then. So, as of yet, he's not seen any of the comments. You're right, he must have got it fixed, or he's been too busy to work on it.....

allenclme · 04-14-2019, 07:33 AM

I have the identical trailer and a single 12v (which I am replacing with 2 six volts this spring). That single 12 volt battery, unless fully charged, will not run the hydraulics for the auto-level and main slides. Mine's only a year old and the battery will only hold power for a day and then it's dead. That's just running lights and the fridge on propane. What everyone else has said is great advice.

Hamlej · 04-14-2019, 10:26 AM

I have the same model Montana and had the same issues. Put a charger on the battery and once you get up to about 11.5 volts your level up will function. I’m amazed that they let these units off the lot with one group 27 battery. Even with 2 batteries unless you put a disconnect switch in line, after several days they will be dead. 2 batteries will let your refrigerator run on propane for about 2 days if you use nothing else. I now have 4/100amp lithium batteries. No longer any problems.

ChuckS · 04-14-2019, 11:40 AM

You will really like the two six volt batteries. On our fourth season with two GC2 from Costco. Plenty of reserve power. Alpine with six point hyd level up and all hyd slide outs.

Also if you haven’t cleaned and lubed the bearings on the gear packs .. two per hyd slide they will operate much smoother and quicker. Dry gray graphite spray on gear teeth and slide support guide teeth .. a few drops of synthetic oil on the gear pack cog bearings and run slides in and out to work into the bearings/bushings

Gunny Mike · 04-14-2019, 12:27 PM

I had a fuse blown in my truck so I wasn't charging my battery while I drove. Lucky the dealership told me that prior. Couldn't the leveling system one day and lucky I had it fixed. They showed me a 7 pin connector tester that lights up, so I'm going to pick one of those up and check my connections before I start a trip.

PaulRod · 04-20-2019, 11:13 AM

They put a new battery in his rig. New batteries are not always fully charged on the shelf. The 12V wire in the 7 way is not really strong enough to actually "charge" a dead battery but it will keep it trickled charged. I work at an RV dealer and all of our TV's have jumper cables at the back bumper. This is because most RV's have been sitting a while and need a little more power to close them up and operate the landing gear. The OP should turn his truck around and hook up automotive jumper cables to the rig. Then all should operate correctly. Then he'll have time to get the battery fully charged somehow.

You may also like: