Tires Revisited

[Nankipoo]

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45768

The link is the last discussion I had about tires.

I bought the Carlisle Radial Trail HD. 235/85/16 E rated. Air was checked before every trip and kept at 78-80 PSI. Tires are now 3 years old but have only 1500 miles on them and 10/32 tread. They came with 12/32. After the last trip when I returned home I noticed one of them had swelled 2.5 inches taller than the one beside it. The belt had separated. Was planning on getting new tires this spring but back to not knowing what to do. I personally think according to my axle weight it should have held up longer. My wheels are only rated for 95 PSI. I can get an F and run them at that pressure. Really wanting the Sailun tires but they only come in G as many do in that size. Tried calling Sailun about running them at 95 according to weight but only got someone that represents them in the USA. They had no clue. Talked to DTD about it and they said yes you will be fine at 95 PSI. Don't know if that's the right answer either. Tire buying should not be this complicated. I got the same tires on my Ram that I do on my 2003 Jeep Wrangler. Ram gets 65 front 75 rear. Jeep gets 27 PSI according to chalk test and weight. Never had an issue of any kind on the Jeep at that low of pressure. I hate to bring this up again but what's a guy supposed to do but pull his hair out lol. I am attaching a pic of the weights at the Cat scales.

[gearhead]

Maybe look at Hercules tires. I put them on our previous Landmark after I blew a Sailun.

[MandK]

No tire expert, but fwiw, we recently had our rig weighed by RVSEF at the national rally and they asked what air pressure we run in the tires. After they weighed at all tires, they said that based on our actual weight, we could run 85-90 psi in our G rated Sailuns as opposed to the 105-110 psi that we run at. They said it would be perfectly safe and would smooth the ride out a little. Sounds like you could run the Sailuns if you choose to, but you should upgrade your rims so that a possible future inflation mistake wouldn’t ruin your day.

[JRTJH]

Looking at your CAT scale weights, there's a SIGNIFICANT lack of information. All you have is a "generalized weight" on the entire two axles and all 4 wheel positions "all lumped together"... You could have (not saying you DO have) one wheel position that is significantly overloaded and that could be the wheel position where the tread separation occurred. On the other hand you could have simply had a bad Carlisle tire. Although that manufacturer has a pretty good track record, they can, on occasion, produce a bad tire.

I'd recommend, before you "go for the heaviest tire that will fit your trailer rims" stop and get an accurate weight on each wheel. See first, if there is an issue with overloading, then analyze the data and make an enlightened determination on which would be the best decision...

As an example, if you do have an overloaded wheel position and you just put heavy duty "G rated" tires on the trailer, you just might be masking a potential spindle/bearing/hub/brake problem that could "self destruct on you" while the HD tires cover up the problem.....

Knowing each wheel weight before buying new tires will give you better information on which to make decisions.

[rhagfo]

Well at 9,820# on the rear axles, you really don’t need more tire. Our trailer is at about 10,000# on the trailer tires, and we run LT 235/85-16 and no issues.
It does look like you are slightly over your TV GVWR, and GAWR on the rear axle. I ams assuming 10,000# GVWR and 6,000# GAWR on the rear axle.

[Nankipoo]

I am going to call the local CAT scales today and see if they can weigh each tire on the axle. The one that messed up was on the side with the range and refrigerator right above them. Hard to manually over load that side because there is not much storage there. I do want to know the weight there though.

[NH_Bulldog]

I believe that Cat Scales can only do axles, not individual tires. They have 3 platforms, Steer, Drive and Trailer. You would probably need to buy (thousands of $$) or borrow individual portable scale pads to determine specific weight at each wheel as opposed to the whole axle. Sometimes a performance/race shop might have individual scales, but the pads are typically limited to 1,750 lbs. each which won't work for you.

I have seen non-permanent DOT setups where they weigh using individual wheel scales, but never a professional truck stop scale that would do each wheel individually. There just isn't a real need to justify the added costs to install/setup/maintain a scale system specific to each wheel.