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Old 06-16-2024, 09:00 AM   #1
MbFlash
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water heater drain

Dometic WH-6GA water heater. It has a plastic female thread cap on the tank drain.
The tank is aluminum, any suggestions on a type of drain valve to use so I don't have to unscrew the cap to drain the tank?
I saw a brass drain but I don't think brass and aluminum play well together.

What does the collective think?
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Old 06-16-2024, 11:57 AM   #2
sourdough
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I always just unscrewed mine. Not many metals play well with aluminum in that situation. Below is a link with a bit of an explanation. Notice that aluminum is one of the more anodic materials in the chart.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/fed...0Corrosion.pdf

You might make something with a cpvc connector going into the tank. I would think that trying to put very much together is going to run out of space because the door has to close. Also you said it was a female plug? In the pics I looked at of the wh-6ga it appeared they had the same male plug that went into the Atwood heaters (Dometic bought Atwood)?? I think some folks may have added a drain to their Atwood so they might have some thoughts.
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Old 06-16-2024, 12:42 PM   #3
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Regardless if you have the anode rode or the plastic plug, you really should remove the plug (or anode rod) completely and let the tank drain.

Why?

The force of the water draining will pick up small particles of lime build up and flush it out. If you use a small plug with a drain valve, those small particles cannot be flushed out of the bottom of the tank.

Actually, every time you drain you tank, it's good to use a tank wand on the end of garden hose and flush out the particles of lime and cruck that forms and falls to the bottom of the tank. Forceful flushing is about the only way to get it out, unless you have a very, very small diameter vacuum hose that will fit inside that hole.

Like this one. Click here.
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Old 06-16-2024, 04:35 PM   #4
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Hi my tank had a brass radiator(automotive type) drain peacock in it
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Old 06-16-2024, 04:50 PM   #5
GaryUT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MbFlash View Post
Dometic WH-6GA water heater. It has a plastic female thread cap on the tank drain.
The tank is aluminum, any suggestions on a type of drain valve to use so I don't have to unscrew the cap to drain the tank?
I saw a brass drain but I don't think brass and aluminum play well together.

What does the collective think?

On my last trailer that had a Dometic water heater I added a toilet supply line with a valve to make draining the tank easy. I used a brass hex nipple to connect the line. The manufacturer also used brass hex nipples to connect the lines to the back of the tank.

Gary
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Old 06-16-2024, 06:16 PM   #6
Don77
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My last TT had a brass valve and brass fittings, that tank lasted for 20+years before I had to replace it, it still did not leak only the controls quit working, and we lived in it for three years while clearing our land and building our house!
That TT was still going from 1994 to 2018.

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Old 06-17-2024, 07:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paparon798 View Post
Hi my tank had a brass radiator(automotive type) drain peacock in it
I tried it on my Jayco. Drain rate is VERY slow. Just try to find tools that fit in there.
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Old 06-17-2024, 09:30 AM   #8
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I always used plastic ones and kept spares handy. The plastic does degrade over time so I liked tp replace once per year during dewinterizing
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Old 06-17-2024, 11:28 AM   #9
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Someone cross threaded my plastic one before I got the camper. I got a brass one with a petcock, put teflon tape on it. No more leak, easy to put a pair of pliers on it in the fall to drain it for the winter. Worked fine last winter.
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Old 06-18-2024, 12:49 PM   #10
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If you have a gas/electric water heater with a plastic drain plug, you either have the wrong plug or you have a water heater with NO ANODE ROD... If you have the "correct plug" then your water heater tank serves as its own anode. Those (typically Atwood) water heaters need to be flushed annually, or more often under some situations to remove the "droppings that accumulate on the tank floor."

If you install a pet cock and use that as the only means to drain the tank annually when winterizing, you're skipping an important step in maintenance. The tank should be flushed annually. To properly flush, the water heater tank plastic cap needs to be removed so you can get the flush wand into the tank and to get enough water flow to wash out any foreign material....

As usual, YMMV.
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Old 06-30-2024, 09:33 AM   #11
Arnold
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Brass drain plug with petcock

Is replaced my plastic drain plug with a brass plug and peacock. It worked great for about a month but then I opened it to drain the tank and it wouldn’t stop leaking. Also read the previous response about dissimilar metals reacting. The best that you can do is keep using the plastic plug but keep a spare handy.
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Old 06-30-2024, 09:37 AM   #12
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Like others have pointed out, draining will go very slow with the smaller diameter drain and you won't be able to use a wand to flush it out thoroughly. The plug is nylon to hold up to the heat. Get a couple spares and just keep using them.
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Old 06-30-2024, 10:40 AM   #13
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Thanks to all, i purchased a wand and was surprised at how much crap came out of the tank considering how old the trailer is. Also i changed over to a threaded pvc 1/2" coupling and plug. i will keep the original cap on hand incase the pvc doesn't like the heat and either leaks or blows off.
Thanks again.
2 weeks till my next trip :-)
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Old 06-30-2024, 04:10 PM   #14
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You may want to reconsider the use of PVC at the water heater. I did some checking and it looks like PVC is only rated to a max 140 degrees which is pretty close to what some of these RV water heaters get. I also see that CPVC pipe and fittings are rated to 200 degrees, which might be a better option.
https://www.home-how.com/what-temper...20industrially.
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Old 06-30-2024, 04:59 PM   #15
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^^^^Yes, pvc would be questionable on a water heater. CPVC is made for the typical heat of a water heater unless it is in proximity to a flame.
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Old 07-01-2024, 05:01 AM   #16
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I avoided PVC and use nylon plugs. They are cheap, and you don't have to worry about dissimilar metal corrosion. I have no issues getting a socket onto the plug with short (1.5 inch?) wobble extension and a stubby ratchet. You don't want to get gorilla torque on the plug because you can deform it. It will accept sealing tape.
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