toilet replacement help

Wisetraverls4 · 07-01-2021, 10:27 AM

Our 2018 Bullet Crossfire 2200BH came with a Dometic 300 toilet that has never held water. We bought a Dometic 310 to replace it (I really want porcelain). When we tried to install it last weekend,the new toilet is a hair too long to fit in the space--the base will not go flush to the floor. I looked at the dimensions on instruction manuals for the 2 models and see that there is 1/4" difference in space from wall to center of floor opening. Anyone got a suggestion as to how we can retrofit the floor opening to be able to install the new toilet? It is so close to working, but if we move the floor flange forward 1/4" will the screw holes be too close to the old ones to hold and will the "hole" still be in the right place to install the new toilet without leaks? Hopefully the photos will load.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Martha

**chuckster57** · 07-01-2021, 10:40 AM

Moving the floor flange may cause the drain not to line up with the tank causing worse issues. In some cases you just need to fix what you have.

**sourdough** · 07-01-2021, 12:35 PM

The depth from wall to center of the drain cutout on the 300 is 8.5", the 310 is 10" and the 320 is 11". If you don't have the room from the wall to the cutout short of replacing the floor I'm not sure you can "mod" that existing hole 1 1/2" further out without having a lot of leakage from around the floor seal on the toilet.

Here's an excerpt from a response I made in a different thread;

"Here's a link to that information. The one I pulled up previously was much larger print but on page 2, figure 3, item A it shows the different rough in dimensions for the different models."

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/19...?page=2#manual

**JRTJH** · 07-01-2021, 02:01 PM

You have two choices as I see the problem...

One is to return the 310 and exchange it for a 300 that will fit the space.

The other, not a good choice IMHO, is to rework the floor and/or the wall so the larger toilet will fit the space....

I'd opt to replace the 300 with a 300 and just don't scratch the interior of the plastic bowl.

NH_Bulldog · 07-01-2021, 04:48 PM

The issue with the floor is that the toilet floor flange threads onto the black tank, and the flange is screwed to the floor. You can’t move the black tank, so you can’t move the floor flange. What’s left is either move the wall or get a different toilet. For the effort and cost, I would go back with the 300.

Gobirds38 · 07-01-2021, 06:42 PM

Could it be angled a little? Or cut some off the back of the toilet? Not sure if ether would work, just a thought.

**sourdough** · 07-01-2021, 06:48 PM

All of my 310s have had a porcelain back that would be what hit the wall. Angling the toilet due to lack of distance would surely give you some nice "flow" from the toilet into the bathroom due to the seal not securing.

notanlines · 07-02-2021, 02:49 AM

If you are hell-bent to have the 310 (Yes, it is a nicer commode) the only semi-reasonable answer is to cut into the wall. And of course you would want to make sure you had space enough for the lid to stay up when lifted.
Avoid at all costs 'tilting' the commode or some jerry-rig maneuver to match the mounting plate with the commode.
Keep us up on your actions.

rhagfo · 07-02-2021, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notanlines

If you are hell-bent to have the 310 (Yes, it is a nicer commode) the only semi-reasonable answer is to cut into the wall. And of course you would want to make sure you had space enough for the lid to stay up when lifted.
Avoid at all costs 'tilting' the commode or some jerry-rig maneuver to match the mounting plate with the commode.
Keep us up on your actions.

X2!
I agree the porcelain bowl is very nice, I would carefully modify the wall behind.

travelin texans · 07-02-2021, 05:20 AM

Just remember these ARE NOT 2x4 studded walls! Check what's on the other side of that wall before you cut, you could possibly have the toilet sticking out into the next room.

skids · 07-02-2021, 05:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Moving the floor flange may cause the drain not to line up with the tank causing worse issues. In some cases you just need to fix what you have.

There is a youtube video on how to repair/replace the seal. It doesn’t look difficult.

rhagfo · 07-02-2021, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Just remember these ARE NOT 2x4 studded walls! Check what's on the other side of that wall before you cut, you could possibly have the toilet sticking out into the next room.

While that is true most are 1-1/2” thick, some 3/4”, creating a recess in the wall may be all that is needed, to get the room for the toilet to fit.

Gobirds38 · 07-02-2021, 06:30 AM

Is the piece on the back of the toilet that is touching the wall made of plastic or ceramic?
Can it be removed or cut down?

wiredgeorge · 07-02-2021, 07:07 AM

Wow... While there might be no such thing as a "stupid question" there are some answers that fit that category. PORCELIN. TOO BIG. Have this guy cut the wall on a 2018 camper for the toilet to fit? TOILET TOO BIG; TAKE BACK and use original 300.

**JRTJH** · 07-02-2021, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Wow... While there might be no such thing as a "stupid question" there are some answers that fit that category. PORCELIN. TOO BIG. Have this guy cut the wall on a 2018 camper for the toilet to fit? TOILET TOO BIG; TAKE BACK and use original 300.

X2 !!!!!

We're talking about a travel trailer with, if the OP is lucky, has 3" of space between the toilet flange and the black tank fitting. THERE IS NO WAY TO EASILY RECONFIGURE 2" IN A 3" PLUMBING RUN.... If he was working with a fifth wheel where the toilet is in the upper deck, maybe there'd be enough space to reconfigure the floor/plumbing run. NOT ON A TRAVEL TRAILER (without changing black tank fittings and/or replacing the black tank to accommodate the changed configuration of the opening.

If I were to start cutting walls where my DW's butt sits when on the toilet, I'm positive she would not be a "happy camper"....

There is really no way to "cut porcelain", so trying to modify the toilet is not an option.....

Like George said, "TOILET TOO BIG; TAKE BACK and use original 300"

ADDED: Or just hang it on the wall and pretend it's a urinal....

Javi · 07-02-2021, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

X2 !!!!!

We're talking about a travel trailer with, if the OP is lucky, has 3" of space between the toilet flange and the black tank fitting. THERE IS NO WAY TO EASILY RECONFIGURE 2" IN A 3" PLUMBING RUN.... If he was working with a fifth wheel where the toilet is in the upper deck, maybe there'd be enough space to reconfigure the floor/plumbing run. NOT ON A TRAVEL TRAILER (without changing black tank fittings and/or replacing the black tank to accommodate the changed configuration of the opening.

If I were to start cutting walls where my DW's butt sits when on the toilet, I'm positive she would not be a "happy camper"....

There is really no way to "cut porcelain", so trying to modify the toilet is not an option.....

Like George said, "TOILET TOO BIG; TAKE BACK and use original 300"

In my old Passport '12 I had the same issue if I remember correctly I unscrewed the flange from the floor and rotated it slightly then screwed it back down with the same screws.. but that's been 7 years and a stroke ago..

Gobirds38 · 07-02-2021, 07:34 AM

Sorry just tying to offer some suggestions for a fellow camper. For what it's worth the 300 isn't worth the plastic it is made from...

wiredgeorge · 07-02-2021, 08:41 AM

Thinking out of the box now that the OP has had a chance to consider the distance from the wall... https://www.thetford.com/products/toilets/rv-toilets/

We had an ORIGINAL (2002 camper) Aqua Magic and it was like sitting on a plastic bucket; not amendable for the male anatomy! Perhaps one of these newer gen toilets would be the answer based on their clearance. The hyperbole Thetford uses to describe these toilets is remarkable!

Wisetraverls4 · 07-02-2021, 11:17 AM

Amen Gobird38- definitely not worth the plastic! Thanks for the comments all--the distance by which the flange is off is only 1/4 inch--not more than an inch as some have indicated or I never would have asked the question. Wall behind the toilet could be cut out--we have looked, but it is not worth the effort. Not sure why the comment about the scratched bowl--we do not have that problem. The toilet has never held water in the bowl and on the last two trips there has been seepage around the base and we could not identify the source, so we wanted to replace. Guess will return it and just stick with what we have. Thanks for those who offered serious replies.

Gobirds38 · 07-02-2021, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wisetraverls4

Amen Gobird38- definitely not worth the plastic! Thanks for the comments all--the distance by which the flange is off is only 1/4 inch--not more than an inch as some have indicated or I never would have asked the question. Wall behind the toilet could be cut out--we have looked, but it is not worth the effort. Not sure why the comment about the scratched bowl--we do not have that problem. The toilet has never held water in the bowl and on the last two trips there has been seepage around the base and we could not identify the source, so we wanted to replace. Guess will return it and just stick with what we have. Thanks for those who offered serious replies.

I am having the same problem out of my 300. On our last trip is when it happened, very bad smell. I am planning on replacing mine this weekend, I haven't measured it yet, hope a 310 will fit, if not I will seal all gaskets on the new 300 before I install it.

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