Rear door of TT will not unlock

davidcyndi · 05-09-2013, 01:39 PM

On our last trip the rear door will not unlock. It has different keys from the front door. The front door key will go all the way in the rear doors lock but the key that is actually for the rear door will only go in half way. The lock that is not unlocking is the dead bolt lock for the rear door. If you are inside and you try to turn the red lock unlock knob it will not turn left or right to allow you to unlock it that way either. It does not look like it was tampered with at all and nothing is stuck inside of the deadbolt key access.

Anyone have any ideas?
locksmith?
bring in for warranty work? dreading doing this.

Bob Landry · 05-09-2013, 02:44 PM

I would squirt some white grqphite in it or even some WD-40 and "exercise" it with the key. It sounds like one of the tumblers might be sticking.

f6bits · 05-09-2013, 04:08 PM

Does the tumbler have anything to do with unlocking it from the inside? I've not experimented with how the outside and inside locks interact.

I wonder if the deadbolt is just friction-stuck against something. That's why I no longer drive with my deadbolt engaged.

So…with an extra set of hands, how about shifting the door around while trying the red deadbolt knob.

EricLynnAllison · 05-09-2013, 04:15 PM

I had to replace a door lock on a 6 mos old TH. The dead bolt would close. It started to stick once, I opened the door and was able to use the key one more time before the deadbolt was stuck out with the door open. Had to find a RV dealer with the right lock just to shut the door. Keystone replaced the lock, so now I have a spare.

davidcyndi · 05-09-2013, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I would squirt some white grqphite in it or even some WD-40 and "exercise" it with the key. It sounds like one of the tumblers might be sticking.

but with the tumblers stuck wouldn't I still be able to move the red deadbolt knob inside the trailer door? If so then its something else as I cant get the red knob to budge.

davidcyndi · 05-09-2013, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f6bits

Does the tumbler have anything to do with unlocking it from the inside? I've not experimented with how the outside and inside locks interact.

I wonder if the deadbolt is just friction-stuck against something. That's why I no longer drive with my deadbolt engaged.

So…with an extra set of hands, how about shifting the door around while trying the red deadbolt knob.

I am guessing friction stuck.
Do you think a locksmith would be able to do anything?

I am going to try the wd40 like poster above suggested.

Ken / Claudia · 05-09-2013, 11:14 PM

When we got the trailer last Nov. I noticed right away the locks where sticking and hard to turn, I sprayed WD40 and they worked good after that but, they never locked up.

B&T · 05-10-2013, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidcyndi

On our last trip the rear door will not unlock. It has different keys from the front door. The front door key will go all the way in the rear doors lock but the key that is actually for the rear door will only go in half way. The lock that is not unlocking is the dead bolt lock for the rear door. If you are inside and you try to turn the red lock unlock knob it will not turn left or right to allow you to unlock it that way either. It does not look like it was tampered with at all and nothing is stuck inside of the deadbolt key access.

Anyone have any ideas?
locksmith?
bring in for warranty work? dreading doing this.

Do you have the FIC lock? If so, have you tried removing the 4 square drive screws inside to see if you can get the door open? If you can get it open, you could just replace the lockset.

Mine is the FIC lock and I have been thinking about the repeated history that I have seen posted of this lock freezing up. Since my Passport has only one entrance door, this could be a serious issue if it gets stuck with no one inside. Having to pry the door open really does not sit well with me or my wallet. Because of this, I no longer use the deadbolt when leaving the TT empty.

I have been considering ordering a Global Link brand lock @

http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/Global...6#.UY0Jk_LKGHk

which would give me a lock that has no master keys floating around but I'm not sure if it would be any more or less prone to lock freezing. Does not seem to be any user history that I have found for this brand.

SAABDOCTOR · 05-10-2013, 09:42 AM

hi if the tumbler is stuck you will not be able to turn it from the inside also. any light weight oil wd 40,3in1, pb blaster. or graphite spray will work soak it down and take the key that goes all the way in and rock it a bit to help spred the lube. then swap to the correct key and just keep playing with it. be nice and don't force it. more spray and it will come free. just do not use a spray grease. i use "lock ease" spray on all my locks twice a year never have had any issues. good luck and once it frees up enjoy a cold one for a job well done.

davidcyndi · 05-10-2013, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&T

Do you have the FIC lock? If so, have you tried removing the 4 square drive screws inside to see if you can get the door open? If you can get it open, you could just replace the lockset.

Mine is the FIC lock and I have been thinking about the repeated history that I have seen posted of this lock freezing up. Since my Passport has only one entrance door, this could be a serious issue if it gets stuck with no one inside. Having to pry the door open really does not sit well with me or my wallet. Because of this, I no longer use the deadbolt when leaving the TT empty.

I have been considering ordering a Global Link brand lock @

http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/Global...6#.UY0Jk_LKGHk

which would give me a lock that has no master keys floating around but I'm not sure if it would be any more or less prone to lock freezing. Does not seem to be any user history that I have found for this brand.

Yep, its the fic lock. I saw the 4 screws on the back but didn't want to screw anything up so I came here before I did anything. Once I do get it unlocked I will no longer use the deadbolt. Only the upper lock. what a pain.

davidcyndi · 05-10-2013, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAABDOCTOR

hi if the tumbler is stuck you will not be able to turn it from the inside also. any light weight oil wd 40,3in1, pb blaster. or graphite spray will work soak it down and take the key that goes all the way in and rock it a bit to help spred the lube. then swap to the correct key and just keep playing with it. be nice and don't force it. more spray and it will come free. just do not use a spray grease. i use "lock ease" spray on all my locks twice a year never have had any issues. good luck and once it frees up enjoy a cold one for a job well done.

Thank you sir for making me feel better about what is going on with this stupid lock. arrrrrrrrrr. Will head out to walmart tonight to get the spray and try to fix it. Thanks again for the heads up.

B&T · 05-10-2013, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Once I do get it unlocked I will no longer use the deadbolt. Only the upper lock. what a pain.

I am still a little concerned that mine may jam when I lock us in for the night(since inside lock still uses deadbolt) -- but at least I can get out a window if that happens.

Yep, PAIN!

f6bits · 05-11-2013, 10:01 AM

I just tested my lock. Yeah, I guess a stuck tumbler will jam it. With the key in, turning the red latch turns the key also. I vote for disassembling the thing from the inside of the trailer if all else fails. It's a very clean installation and will be easy to put back together.

Mine isn't a FIC since I replaced it with a non-mastered latch:
http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/Global...6#.UY6HVZXC58M

SteveC7010 · 05-11-2013, 10:39 AM

WD40 is more of a solvent than a lubricant. It dries fairly quickly and can gum things over time. Once that happens, it attracts and holds dirt and can really mess up lock mechanisms, especially pins and tumblers. WD40 has its good uses, but locks are not one of them.

Instead, use a lock specific lubricant like Lock-Ease, Easy Entry, Master Lock Lubricant, etc. Graphite lubes are best. Some are dry, while others are liquid borne. They still end up dry as the liquid is a rapid evaporating medium that leaves no residue except the graphite. I prefer the Lock-Ease Liquid Lock because it can be spray forced into auto door locks that have frozen up in cold weather.

Petroleum based lubes remain wet and attract dirt like crazy. Again, they have their place, but not in a lock. This includes 3-in-1 oil!

RV door locks are easily disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled. Unless you are very familiar with pin and tumbler assemblies, don't take them apart. The tiny pins and springs go flying everywhere if not worked on properly. But the rest of the latch and locking mechanisms are very simple and straight forward. If you have any doubts about being able to reassemble one, take the cover off and take a decent closeup pic before proceeding any further.

Some of the moving parts are fairly low grade castings and may have burrs or rough spots that prevent or inhibit smooth action. I keep a jewelers file and a very fine fingernail sanding board with four different grits in my tool box. They are great for cleaning up these imperfections.

If there is oil or other stuff that is gumming things up, clean well and make sure there is no residue from cleaning. I like a kitchen spray cleaner and a damp rag. It cuts grease and oil readily and when wiped clean, leaves no trace.

As you reassemble the lock, make sure everything moves smoothly and easily with both the manual knob and with the key in the tumbler.

Put it all back together on the table and then test it for all functions with every key you have. When you're 110% happy with your work, install it back in the door and test again.

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