Need advice on a dependable power tongue jackjack

[EcoboostKev]

I am tired of cranking the trailer up by hand especially when lifting the trailer and rear of truck to set the WD bars!! I want my trips to be that much more enjoyable so i am getting a power tongue jack. I would like some advice on a good brand that is strong and dependable and also able to fit my 2012 Outback 292BH.I have read some good reviews on the Barker VIP jacks. Just wondering what brands you guys are using and your experiences with them..

[flc]

I had an LCI 3500 lb on a previous trailer and it worked pretty good (anything is better than manual.) It did blow fuses a couple of times so on my new trailer I opted for a Barker VIP 3500 lb. Haven't used it a lot yet but I really like it so far.

[chris199]

Just got thru all of the same research. Went with the Barker VIP 3500. Had my dealer install...battery in rear of my unit and didn't want to mess with wiring with TT just a few weeks old.

So far love it! So much easier to hookup with the Hensley too...takes all the weight off of the wgt dist bars. Can now use drill to raise bars.

Given the slope if my driveway, I lower the front of my trailer to wash it...so much easier to raise and lower with the power. I'd be breaking a good sweat in 90 degree heat cranking.

Barker seemed to have the best reviews and good warranty. Amazon seemed to have the best pricing. Saved $100 vs. Going thru my dealer to purchase.

[EcoboostKev]

I was leaning towards the Barker after reading a few reviews. I need to go out and measure but im assuming i have a 2 1/4" post? I found this website that has it for $199.00. Thanks for the responses!
http://www.adventurerv.net/barker-vi...lb-p-4360.html

[webslave]

Any of the major players make a good jack... They aren't very "technical"; basically a 12v motor spins the same acme screw shaft, via a gear box, that you've been turning with a handle. The difference for most comes in the head design...some are bigger than others (important if you have a lift gate that you need to open while hitched or a tail gate the needs clearance), others have one light on the front or two lights, one on each side, etc. Looking at your trailer in your signature, if that doesn't have a 2 1/4" shank, I'd be dumbfounded.

The caveats for all of them is hooking them up correctly and keeping them dry. Hook them up correctly and keep them dry and you'll get good service from virtually all of them. You want to make sure the fuse is protected from corrosion and my recommendation; if it uses a glass screw (the old style), cut it out of the wire, go to the auto parts store and buy a weatherproof blade type, or even better, a resetting circuit breaker in the correct amperage (usually 30 amp). You also want to protect the heads from water intrusion...some use a garbage bag, some use a bucket and some buy the water proof vinyl jack head covers. I went the later route and left it on all the time; I could operate the up/down button with the flexible cover on it - no need to remove. On installation, you want to make sure that the base, where it bolts to the frame, has good metal to metal connection, scrape paint if you have to. Most jacks only have one wire - the positive wire and they rely on the base connection for the ground path. You'll also need to follow the manufacturers directions for maintenance; they aren't install and forget. The gear boxes need grease and after a couple of years, you'll probably need to "open her up" for some judicious re-greasing of the gears so that they don't spin dry. Follow those "tips" and you'll be a happy camper for a lot of years!

[fla-gypsy]

Buy any 3500 lb Jack that you like as long as it goes up and down when you push the switch. That's all they do.

[golfpro]

I like the Barker, because I had one for over 20 years and it was a sorry site before I broke down and bought a new one. By a sorry site I mean it has seen better days. I have bent the shaft twice and bent it back and it still worked. I would never go back to a hand crank tongue jack.

[volvosweetie]

One thing we did we found one on ebay for less than 90 dollars can't remember what brand. But we covered it with a huge plastic bag and used a rubber band to keep it tight and then I took a piece of vynal I bought at a fabric store and cut a circle and put a draw string casement around it to keep out the weather. I had read were people had bought the covers for them and that the seam wasn't water tight and caused it to corrode and rust and then fail. My husband uses it with the cover on so we never take it off. That is probly one of the best mods we have done.

[craiglud]

I see where BAL is going to release a new jack that is already set up to use with a cordless drill. It has a socket head on the top or side that you can easily use with your heavy duty drill and don't have to worry about the wiring, water damage or extra weight. If you are already using a drill for the stabilizer jacks then this might be a good option too.

[chris199]

DW made cover for Hensley and used some leftover vinyl to make a long sleeve (almost like a golf driver cover) for the tongue jack. Works well!

[Mighty Ming]

Hey Craiglud, just read your post on BAL's new semi manual crank design via power drill. Any further info as to when it will be avail? Seems like it would be more dependable than the other push button type. I know mine routinely blows the glass tube type fuse so I just don't bother with it and use the back up manual crank on the head. Maybe I'll take the advice mentioned here to cut it out and install the blade type where I can reach it without removing the head cover.


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[craiglud]

I thought it would have been last month but it does not seem to be available at any of the regular outlets thought. I agree, seems to be a more reliable solution so I'm holding out!

[flc]

While the BAL (electric drill) jack sound great for rapidly moving the jack up and down I would be surprised if it could lift the trailer and rear of truck to set the WD bars.