Circuit Breakers On/Off

[Joe1969]

I am trying to trouble shoot my domestic air condition system.

I have a 2022 Keystone Ridgeline, 27-foot.

While connected to electric power from my house this morning, the ac ran fine.

I went in this afternoon and it will not turn back on. The thermostat is on and set to a temp well below the air temp. It is 100 in the trailer and the thermostat is set at 65.

I am starting with the circuit breakers. How can I tell if they are on or off? They do not have any “on” or “off” on them.

I am starting there and then trying to determine what the next step might be.

Any help is appreciated.

It might be worth noting that no matter what direction the breakers are pointed, all other power and alliances run, with the exception of the AC.

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum

Welcome from just down the road. If your breaker panel is horizontal, the breakers are ON when the lever is UP. To be sure it’s actually on you should flip it down and then all the way up.

I would make sure you have 110VAC at the ac breaker. You need to be comfortable with a meter and a live circuit.

[Joe1969]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Welcome to the forum

Welcome from just down the road. If your breaker panel is horizontal, the breakers are ON when the lever is UP. To be sure it’s actually on you should flip it down and then all the way up.

I would make sure you have 110VAC at the ac breaker. You need to be comfortable with a meter and a live circuit.

Thanks for the help, so quickly. The breakers don’t flip up and down, they are left to right. Also, can you tell me a little bit more about this “110” thing? The trailer chord is just connected to an adapter that goes into an extension that goes direct into a regular outlet, am I doing it wrong?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Joe1969

Thanks for the help, so quickly. The breakers don’t flip up and down, they are left to right. Also, can you tell me a little bit more about this “110” thing? The trailer chord is just connected to an adapter that goes into an extension that goes direct into a regular outlet, am I doing it wrong?

If your trailer is plugged into an extension cord and then into a standard outlet on the side of the house or in the garage, your asking for big trouble.

Breakers go left to right- just look at the breaker, ON is the switch at the top of the breaker. If you start pushing on the switch it should quickly move to the “tripped” (off) position. You’ll need to flip it all the way down and then all the way up.

110VAC is the current carried in the power cord. You need a minimum amount of amps for the AC to start and run without damage.

[CedarCreekWoody]

In this heat a 15 amp circuit from your home may not be enough to run the a/C. The A/C requires more amperage to start in the heat.

[Joe1969]

Again. Thanks for your help. What exactly is a 110VAC? Is it something I buy like at a hardware store?

Also - The breakers, is on or off to the left or the right?

[Joe1969]

Thanks. Sorry. This is my day to be slow on the uptake.

Is there a special chord I need to get called a 110, or do I have to get a special outlet added to my house?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Joe1969

Thanks. Sorry. This is my day to be slow on the uptake.

Is there a special chord I need to get called a 110, or do I have to get a special outlet added to my house?

If your trailer has 30A service (3 conductor) you need to have a qualified electrician install an RV 30A outlet. Your trailer came with a power cord so you don’t need another one. You may need an RV 30A extension cord.

[bobbecky]

Originally Posted by Joe1969

Thanks. Sorry. This is my day to be slow on the uptake.

Is there a special chord I need to get called a 110, or do I have to get a special outlet added to my house?

You have 120 volts AC(alternating voltage), and when you connect to any load, lights, A/C, or anything else, that is when you have Current being used, which is measured in Amps (amperage). You must have at least sufficient power available, and this is the circuit must be large enough, 20 amps, 30 amps, or whatever loads you want to run, plus your CORD, which is the cable you connect your trailer to the electric outlet, has to have wires large enough to carry the current. You can not use a small extension cord to supply heavy amperage load to things such as your air conditioner because it’s like using a tiny tube trying to supply a large volume of water when you really need a large hose or pipe. You will burn up the cord or the appliance because the tiny wire creates too much resistance which won’t allow enough power to get to the appliance.

[Joe1969]

Originally Posted by bobbecky

You have 120 volts AC(alternating voltage), and when you connect to any load, lights, A/C, or anything else, that is when you have Current being used, which is measured in Amps (amperage). You must have at least sufficient power available, and this is the circuit must be large enough, 20 amps, 30 amps, or whatever loads you want to run, plus your CORD, which is the cable you connect your trailer to the electric outlet, has to have wires large enough to carry the current. You can not use a small extension cord to supply heavy amperage load to things such as your air conditioner because it’s like using a tiny tube trying to supply a large volume of water when you really need a large hose or pipe. You will burn up the cord or the appliance because the tiny wire creates too much resistance which won’t allow enough power to get to the appliance.

Yes. As I am learning. Luckily, it looks like everything is functioning correctly and that the breaker on the house outlet tripped early on.

[Gkri]

Originally Posted by Joe1969

Yes. As I am learning. Luckily, it looks like everything is functioning correctly and that the breaker on the house outlet tripped early on.

Joe - circuit breakers (CB's) work on time vs. current basis. A very high amp draw over the breaker rating will trip the breaker very fast. Amp (current) draw just slightly over the rating will take a much longer time for the breaker to trip. Curves are published that show how long it takes to trip vs. the current being pulled through a certain size breaker. Your RV A/C, plus line losses in the wire to the outlet, extension cord, and RV cord put you over the CB rating and also lowered the voltage at the A/C unit which in turn required more current. This is one reason you should always use a quality EMS unit, even at home.

[MotownJG]

When at home, I ran my 2008 Copper Canyon to a 60 amp subpanel in my garage using a 20 amp circuit and appropriate gauge extension cord. I could run the AC in my 5th wheel just fine. Mostly.

Then my sister and BIL gave us their old freezer that I promptly put in the garage and plugged into the 60 amp subpanel. Whenever the freezer kicked on (BIG amp draw) it would kick the breaker on the subpanel associated with the RV.

I have not (so far) installed a separate 30-amp home-run to the electrical main panel for just my RV. Bottom line, it's not always just an RV circuit breaker - can be in your house/garage as well. If you want people staying over in your RV during hot weather, you'll have to get a separate 30 amp receptacle or use your generator like you know already.

And I learned a TON by asking questions on this forum.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Is this camper still under warranty? You can do a lot of damage since you don't have a good understanding of electrical power. Get it to your dealer or a mobile tech.

[CedarCreekWoody]

If you have a 30 amp outlet installed be sure the electrician understands this is 120 volt, not 240 volt. Very important!

[Joe1969]

I just disconnected it from my house to my generator (120V, 30A) and it seems to run fine now. I will get an electrician to install. Yes, it is under warranty.

One additional question. When I first started running it this morning, with just a regular chord, it ran. At some point it stoped running, it was connected most of the day until I noticed it off.

Now that it is running and cooling, should I conclude all is well or should I have it checked out to determine if there is any damage?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Joe1969

I just disconnected it from my house to my generator (120V, 30A) and it seems to run fine now. I will get an electrician to install. Yes, it is under warranty.

One additional question. When I first started running it this morning, with just a regular chord, it ran. At some point it stoped running, it was connected most of the day until I noticed it off.

Now that it is running and cooling, should I conclude all is well or should I have it checked out to determine if there is any damage?

You won’t know if there is any damage until it quits running altogether. Hopefully you got lucky. 120VAC is the normal current from your local utility company but can vary. I used 110VAC in my replies.

[sourdough]

You probably threw the breaker in the house feeding the outlet you plugged into. You are making a mistake trying to plug your trailer into a 15A house circuit then turning on the A/C to 65 degrees; you'll melt the receptacle, plug, cable or ?? Hopefully you haven't damaged the compressor in your RV a/c.

You need to figure out what you have. I'm not aware of Keystone making a "Ridgeline" RV. Honda makes a "Ridgeline" mini pickup. You say the RV is 27' which makes it highly likely it is set up for 2 A/C units which then makes your trailer a 50A trailer. You need to find out what you have and post back. Right now you're one step from a disaster.

[Joe1969]

It is a Keystone by Springdale. Ridgeline was a typing error. One AC unit.

I am on a gas generator now, 3700 running and 4500 peak.

[Joe1969]

Is there any way to send a picture of my configuration to show you how I am hooked up?

[chuckster57]

If your plugged into a 30A generator, your ok now.

Generators are usually rated in watts.