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Old 10-14-2012, 03:24 PM   #1
robo
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2013 passport pick up 900 mile ride 25.5 hrs

ok went to ohio with my old 2009 shamrock 21ss averaged 7.8 mpg running 65 mph
i have a 2003 ford f150 supersrew 5.4 4x4 3.73 gears
on way home
average was 9.9 mpg towing a heaver passport 3220bh
passport towed "lighter" than the shamrock
had wife and 3 kids with me
we added the second friction sway for passport and we went 65 with od on just like with shamrock
the family is impressed

but we opened the door today and the door strut broke
lol anyone got anY IDEAS ON PRICE FOR THAT?
THANKS
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:04 PM   #2
hankpage
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That's one of the problems buying so far from home. You have to drive another 900 miles to get the strut for free under warranty. Seriously, if you look locally or on-line it is probably a standard hardware item.
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:17 PM   #3
Festus2
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Welcome to the forum robo.

As Hankpage suggested, you can always Google it and find the item, where to buy and how much it costs. Our members don't have all of this information at the tips of their fingers and would probably have to do the same thing....Look it up and then pass this information on to you.
Steve would tell you that "Google is your friend" and so would hankpage, and Festus2, and .........
Enjoy your new but strutless Passport --- drive safely.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:22 PM   #4
EcoboostKev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robo View Post
ok went to ohio with my old 2009 shamrock 21ss averaged 7.8 mpg running 65 mph
i have a 2003 ford f150 supersrew 5.4 4x4 3.73 gears
on way home
average was 9.9 mpg towing a heaver passport 3220bh
passport towed "lighter" than the shamrock
had wife and 3 kids with me
we added the second friction sway for passport and we went 65 with od on just like with shamrock
the family is impressed

but we opened the door today and the door strut broke
lol anyone got anY IDEAS ON PRICE FOR THAT?
THANKS
Do you have a local Keystone dealer?? If you do I'm sure they would honor any warranty work you have. I purchased my trailer from a wholesale dealer too and my local dealer has no problem working on it. I'm certainly not at the top of there list when it comes to there customers but they will not turn down a paying customer whether it's my money or Keystone's for warranty work.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:47 PM   #5
Philip Saran
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Somewhat off your topic, but you might want to stop towing in OD
If your truck has a tow mode use that. OD is not for towing a TT.
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:08 AM   #6
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Nice TT!! (great taste! ;-) )

Q- which second friction sway did you choose? We're looking at adding the Reese HP dual cam sway controllers to tame our Ram 1500/3220BH.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:37 AM   #7
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I purchase my 2910bh from Holman RV a year and a half ago. I had a a small issue and they allowed me to have my local mobile RV Service guy fix it and they sent me a check for the invoiced amount.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:09 PM   #8
ls1mike
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Love that trailer .

Sounds like it tows nice with the Half ton. I know it is very stable behind my truck and tow very light.

I have the Equalizer E2, sway control and WD. I really like the hitch.

What is the door strut you speak of? Mine does not have one.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Saran View Post
Somewhat off your topic, but you might want to stop towing in OD
If your truck has a tow mode use that. OD is not for towing a TT.
Philip, Around the time Ford introduced the new SuperDuty (1999) they also changed their recommendations for overdrive towing with automatic transmissions in Ford trucks. Since the E4OD transmission was replaced by the 4R100, Ford has recommended towing in "an appropriate gear" and since then, does not recommend that towing be done with OD "locked out". The recommendations in the 2003 F150 owner's manual read:

Driving while you tow
When towing a trailer:
• Turn off the speed control. The speed control may shut off
automatically when you are towing on long, steep grades.
• Consult your local motor vehicle speed regulations for towing a trailer.
• To eliminate excessive shifting, use a lower gear. This will also assist
in transmission cooling. (For additional information, refer to the
Understanding the positions of the 4–speed automatic
transmission section in this chapter.
• Anticipate stops and brake gradually.
• Do not exceed the GCWR rating or transmission damage may occur.


The following is Ford's interpretation of using the D setting (overdrive locked out) for the 2003 F150:

Drive (not shown)
Drive is activated when the transmission control switch is pressed.
• This position allows for all forward gears except overdrive.
• O/D OFF lamp is illuminated.
• Provides engine braking.
• Use when driving conditions cause excessive shifting from O/D to
other gears. Examples: city traffic, hilly terrain, heavy loads, trailer
towing and when engine braking is required.
• To return to O/D (Overdrive), press the transmission control switch.
The O/D OFF lamp will not be illuminated.
• O/D (Overdrive) is automatically returned each time the key is turned
off


While some owners may wish to continue to use "habits learned long ago" when using different equipment, there is no "absolute requirement" to lock out OD in current (and recent) model F150's. As long as the vehicle can maintain speed without "excessive shifting" then use of overdrive is appropriate.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:03 AM   #10
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Door Strut? do you have a picture
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:52 AM   #11
lspajm
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3220 bh dual sway

I have a 3220BH and LOVE IT -- i had a right-side husky friction sway control and i recently just went and had a left-side added - same brand and type. I could not stomach changing my entire hitch system out for the dual-cam when i have had it less than a year. It seems to work really good. Also works better when i have weight in the bed of my F150, 5.4ltr.



Quote:
Originally Posted by audio1der View Post
Nice TT!! (great taste! ;-) )

Q- which second friction sway did you choose? We're looking at adding the Reese HP dual cam sway controllers to tame our Ram 1500/3220BH.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:54 AM   #12
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Door Strut -- I had that removed from the dealer before i took my 3220 BH off the lot. I did not like it becuase the door was at 90deg which made it akward when the screen door was open to go up and down the steps. We had it taken off and the door rubber bumper added to the side and the small t-shaped door hook added -- this is much better. We left the strut on the rear bathroom door -- as we do not leave this open too much.
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:24 AM   #13
Courtland
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I do not see why another local Keystone dealer would not do the warranty work to replace the strut. I purchase my old Super C in DeMoines and my local guy in CA was more than happy to work on it as long as I pulled the other dealers sticker off the RV. Not a problem since I was going to do that anyway. I would not suspect you would be top of the priority list but what dealership wont do warranty work? Thats easy money for them in most cases.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lspajm View Post
Door Strut -- I had that removed from the dealer before i took my 3220 BH off the lot. I did not like it becuase the door was at 90deg which made it akward when the screen door was open to go up and down the steps. We had it taken off and the door rubber bumper added to the side and the small t-shaped door hook added -- this is much better. We left the strut on the rear bathroom door -- as we do not leave this open too much.
ditto! Did exactly the same.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:40 AM   #15
rnkburg
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Have you called the original dealer, they may send you one if you send pics. May have to ship old part back but that would be cheap. My dealer did that for me on a part. Ordered it and had it shipped to me, told me to send back old , simple process

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Old 01-10-2013, 10:08 AM   #16
zippy
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Door Strut? What door strut? I have a 2012 Passport 2650BH and I have no door strut. I have the rubber bumper and T door hold that someone else said.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:44 AM   #17
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Re:

Robo:

No help on the strut, but noticed your comment on fuel mileage. I'm wondering if you factored in wind to the equation? Your location says NY and you traveled to Ohio. My thought is you towed into the wind (with your lighter trailer) as the wind generally moves west to east. And then your return trip you had wind at your back with the heavier trailer.

It's not always 100% true their can be fluctuations, but generally when I go west, fuels mileage suffers, but then benefit on return trip.....

Congrats on the new trailer, very exciting!
Mike
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:54 PM   #18
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Robo:

No help on the strut, but noticed your comment on fuel mileage. I'm wondering if you factored in wind to the equation? Your location says NY and you traveled to Ohio. My thought is you towed into the wind (with your lighter trailer) as the wind generally moves west to east. And then your return trip you had wind at your back with the heavier trailer.

It's not always 100% true their can be fluctuations, but generally when I go west, fuels mileage suffers, but then benefit on return trip.....

Congrats on the new trailer, very exciting!
Mike
His MPG sounds about right to me. The front profile on the passports does make a difference in how they handle wind drag. As someone else mentioned, these 3220BH's do tow better when more weight is in the truck bed. This is because the tongue weight of the 3220BH is light - close to 10% of UVW. If I'm traveling light (ie: w/o the kids and all the stuff that goes with them) I like to add water to the fresh tank to help increase the TW.
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