Wiring question

[Branky]

Hello,
We have a 2012 Cougar 297RKS and luv it. I have been patiently tweaking things Adding LED's inside, replacing bathroom fan etc.).
I have decided to add backup lights to the unit. It DOES NOT have B/U lights in the taillights so I can't tap in there.
The backup (Yellow and it is live) wire does exit the junction box in the reach area and disappears into the wiring loom, never to be seen again.
The dealer claims to have no knowledge on how the wiring gets to the back of the 5'er.
I am trying to find out if the wiring is under the coroplast cover alongside the frame rails or thru the inside of the unit.

So I am turning to the collective knowledge of this forum for some hints on how the wiring gets to the rear of the unit.
Thanks in advance for all the comments.

[JRTJH]

On both my Cougar and my Springdale, the yellow wire was "live" from the 7 pin connector to the electrical junction box located on the pin box. Inside the junction box, the yellow wire is capped and "dead ends". There is no "back up light wiring" from the pinbox that goes into the trailer wiring.

I haven't done it yet, but have all the parts on hand to install LED floodlights on the rear of my Cougar. My plan is to connect to the yellow wire at the pinbox junction, run the wire through the floor of the "cabover section" into the front storage compartment, then down to the coroplast and use zip-ties to run it along the frame rail/propane line to the rear bumper and connect the LED's once mounted.

So far, I've run the rear camera wiring along that pathway with no issues, so I believe the back up light wiring will be very much similar to the camera wiring.

[Pull Toy]

Our Alpine has "built ins", but our previous 5er didn't. I'd do exactly what JRTJH suggested.

To take it a step further... I mounted twin Porch lights with clear covers, and low wattage bulbs, high up. This way you get dual function Rear Floods / Back-ups. More bang for the buck!

I took a spare 7 pin male plug, jumpered the "Battery" pin to the "Running lights" pin, and toggle switched the "Reverse Lite" pin to the "Battery" pin. This way I can turn the running lights on without the truck attached, and with the flip of a toggle a switch, can add a rear "Scare Light"

Makes it easier to find your way home after dark... adds subtle site lighting and "Cheap Quick and Easy PARTY LIGHTS"!

[Branky]

Thanks for the ideas, both have merit.

I would like to use the existing wire if it runs to the rear of the trailer. I suspect it does, just what path does it take to the back and where does it end. Probing with my DVM and test lamps shows the yellow wire is connected in the junction box and is live when the truck is in reverse. I don't wanna have to run wire if I don't have to.

I like the idea of the low wattage lights at the back too. I already have a "Running light" adapter made up, drives my camping buddies crazy trying to figure out how I did it.

If I have to run wire, my plan is to utilize the garage door control built in to the 2500HD to fire a control unit in the basement of the 5th to trigger the lights. I have the electronics to do it, but why re-invent the wheel?

[shiggs68]

After removing a portion of the underbelly for another reason, I saw that at least the vehicle (brakes, turn, clearance) wires all run thru the frame. Makes sense to me as they build the frame upside down, then flip and mount the walls and everything else.

With all of that said, just remove as many side screws towards the back and see what you can find without cutting the coroplast as you call it.


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