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Old 06-17-2018, 04:21 PM   #1
SC Dreamer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Columbia
Posts: 128
Latest Changes Inverter/Battery Monitor

So, I am going to try to explain this and I have pictures (if I can get them to post). This is going to get a little long winded as I wish to provide enough "answers" for those that choose to read through it all.

I wasn't happy with the converter that came on my new to me 2017 Carbon 347. No matter how battery state was, it only charged at a consistent 13.6-13.7vdc, not the 3 stage as advertised.

So first off, I wanted a way to reliably watch my battery condition. After much research and having to watch my budget somewhat because of wanting to do "many" upgrades, I settled on the Victron BMV700, maybe I should have went to the 702 and got battery temp too, but I did not. Overall, really pleased with my decision! Still have all the information I want and a way to program for historical data.

Second, I wanted an inverter/charger combo unit with 3-4 stage charging functions that were programmable. I added up what I believe will cover my usage of AC power now for dry camping and have room for the future, if I find I want something more. I went with the Xantrex HFS Freedom 2000watt unit. It wasn't until I got one in my hand with the instructions that I realized that my intentional way of installing may not work. Please, if shopping for an inverter, download the instructions and read them carefully! I am pretty handy and still wanted to do it "my way", but my install isn't safe for just anyone!! I would like to reiterate that it is set up the way I intended and is NOT by the "book". I did call in to tech line and talked with them about what I intended to do and what I didn't like about how the directions said to install. They said my way would work, but could damage the unit if not used correctly, I will explain better below.

It seems that pretty much all inverter/chargers operate this way, the input voltage when power (generator/shore) is present passes through the the inverter and then to the circuit(s) that you want powered even with a lack of shore/generator power. In this fashion, you have to install your own additional breaker panel. You also need to keep in mind that when shore/generator power is present, what you want to run on those circuits will limit the charging function of the unit. My unit was listed as a 55 amp charger, but that is only if you have NOTHING pulling power on the pass through side!!! As little as 7.5 amps needed to run things on the installed circuits mean that the charging drops to 35amps available to battery charging, and if you need 15 amps AC to your circuits, you only have about 10-15 amps DC available to charge your batteries without overloading the unit!! I had originally planned on running one side of my 50 amp breaker box and that isn't going to do it for me! One of my air conditioners are on each side and the unit's manufacturer strongly recommend NOT passing through to feed an air conditioner! It will overload the unit for sure. This is what wasn't clear in any of the information I read on line when planning this install.

The explanation.... I also didn't know where I wanted to relocate circuits and mount another breaker panel. This is where the faint of heart will want to look away! My factory breaker panel had one empty slot for a breaker on the left side, and the converter breaker on the other side, which would no longer be needed. This is 2 DIFFERENT phases of electricity, if you cross them, you get 240vac and it will fry things!!! I made the choice to do my install this way of my own accord. I used the empty slot on the left side and added my "output" from my inverter on a 30 amp breaker. On the other side, I removed the 20 amp converter breaker and added a 30 amp for "input" to the inverter. Strongly not recommended, even though I understand the potential for danger. I will ALWAYS leave the output breaker in the off position and I put blue tape over that breaker switch as a reminder! It has to stay off when connected to shore/generator power!!! Only turned on when there is no other form of power feeding the camper and I will turn off the middle double 50amp breakers as well as the 20 amp feeding the one air conditioner. The input breaker can stay on as normal just like the converter breaker. I then worked my way through each circuit in the breaker panel to find out exactly what circuits they control. It was a situation where the television and bedroom outlets were on one, the one labeled GFI was bathroom and kitchen counter outlets, and there was one for the washer/dryer that powered a lower outlet in the garage. I wanted these available to be "inverted". I had to move a couple circuits around in the existing breaker panel so all of those as well as one air conditioner were on the left side so they can have power off inverter. I do not plan on running air conditioner, but it has to stay on separate "phase". This allows me to get around the limitations of the inverter on pass through and gives me all 55 amps available for faster battery charging times.

I know I may catch some flak for my installation, but as I have said, it is not for everyone, but I am comfortable with it.

I mounted the inverter in the basement area just under the transfer switch. It was a handy spot, close to battery compartment and had a close run for the bonding to the existing bond wire at the transfer switch. Also a good place to mount the 500amp shunt for the battery monitor and a 250amp circuit breaker in the dc line to the positive side of the inverter.

I also didn't have any 12vdc charging ports in the entire camper!!! I wanted to fix this. There was one empty slot in the fuse compartment, so I added a 10 amp circuit up above radio, under television with a dual USB charge port (both 2.1amps) and a plug in style port. That was pretty easy since I already had everything taken apart to mount the external control of the inverter and battery monitor.

Yay! I got pics to load! I know, the silver screw heads....all I had at the moment, I will likely buy different ones! And yes, I remove the faceplate on radio, it draws less power with everything off. I actually have it down to just .32amps dc which my monitor only goes up to 240 hours until batteries are down to 50% and it is there.
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