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Old 11-03-2014, 06:33 PM   #21
chuckster57
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Dual
Rear
Wheel

Vs.
Single
Rear
Wheel

Fifth wheels come in all sorts of sizes, weights and construction. Materials used can greatly influence weights, such as wood or aluminum framing. Once you've made up your mind on a tow vehicle, then do the calculations as described above.

Then start hunting for any and all units that meet your weight requirements, after that its all about finding a unit that you like. Floor plan is important IMO, take your time and sit in the unit, imagining what your going to be doing. Can you sit and watch TV while your other half is cooking? Can you BOTH sit and watch TV without cranking your necks? Things like that will tell you if the unit is right for you.

Again take your time. Last trailer purchase for me took 3 years, but I KNEW the trailer was right for me when I walked in and spent 30 minutes sitting and moving while my DW did the same.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:38 PM   #22
JRTJH
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Hitch weight is the weight on the tongue of a conventional travel trailer. Pin weight is the weight on the fifth wheel "pin" of a fifth wheel travel trailer.

For "computing purposes", most people calculate "hitch weight" at 10-15% of total trailer weight and "pin weight" at 20-25% of total trailer weight.

The first thing you need to do is to determine the "available payload" in your truck. Load it with the passengers and cargo you'd normally have in it when towing. Go to a CAT scale and weigh the truck with everyone in it and a full tank of fuel. Subtract that weight from the GVW (10,000 lbs) and that is what's left of your payload to be used for "pin weight" and the weight of the hitch. Most fifth wheel hitch assemblies weigh about 100-150 lbs. What's left after that is the maximum "pin weight" for your fifth wheel.

Your "payload" can be found on the yellow sticker on the driver's door post. It lists the tire size, tire pressure and payload. Remember that figure is calculated with a 150 lb driver and a full tank of fuel. NOTHING ELSE IN THE TRUCK, so anything added after the truck left the factory must be deducted from that payload. Any bed mat, mud flaps, tool box, floor mats, cargo container under the rear seat, or anything else you've added or that the dealer added must be considered as "increased truck weight". It's much easier and more accurate to simply find a CAT scale and weigh the truck as it would be loaded for travel.

Good luck.
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Old 11-04-2014, 10:15 AM   #23
Annaoinga
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Smile

Thanks again!

I realized last night (when I couldn't sleep) that the site I was on showed the RV cargo limits as its Payload Capacity.... DUH...

My husband is right I'm getting too stress over this. I'm taking your advice and slowing down. There is no rush since my husband doesn't retire for another year. I was just anxious to start traveling at least in our home state his last year before we hit the open road.

I'll see if we can't take the truck this weekend and get it weighed. That will give me a starting point. The site I was on did show the fifth wheels with "Hitch weights" which should be pin weights from what you told me. My husband thinks since it's a 3/4 ton truck we should be able to handle 1500 pin weight but I think I need to get the weight and do the calculations. Like you said everything we have in the truck weighs and needs to be accounted for. None of us weigh 150 anymore... wish we did...

Thanks for all your patience and help and I'm so glad I found you guys!!!!

I found a couple Cougars that had very similar floor plans to what we had picked out. I'll have to visit them at our next RV Show in Jan!


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Old 11-04-2014, 10:51 AM   #24
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Anna
Remember, ignore the fifth wheel pin weights listed on manufacturers website. Those are the dry weights of the rig as they leave the factory. A fifth wheel pin will weigh about 20 percent of the trailer once it is loaded. When trailer shopping, you are better off looking at the gvwr of the trailer and assuming the loaded pin will weigh 20 of the gvwr. Just have to do the math on a rig by rig basis.
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Old 11-04-2014, 05:39 PM   #25
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IMO, since you are talking about going full time and doing some traveling vs. parking on a perm site, find the floor plan you like/love and then get the TV to match. You will be living in this RV, don't settle because your truck is too small if you have the means to upgrade the truck. As for the Alpine you were looking at, we don't have the same floor plan, but do love our Alpine. It definitely needs a 1 ton dually. I pulled mine once with our 2500, once was enough. As you mentioned, you have time, take it and get a combo you will be happy with. The last thing you want to do is get a new 5er that meets your truck capabilities, a year down the road decide you don't like it and upgrade both truck and camper. Not sure how big you need to go so you don't feel cramped, but I think you will have a tough time finding a full time quality unit with a pin weight under 2k lbs. Keep in mind, full timers tend to carry more cargo with them as well.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:53 PM   #26
Annaoinga
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Thanks for the advice. We have decided to buy new - we found a dealer that is offering some great discount. He is going to install air bags and we will pull it home and see how it does. If it strains we will start looking for a dually to swap to. Can't pass up the deal on one I think we will be happy in full timing.

It's either a 2015 Montana 3610RL, 2014 Montana 3725RL or 2015 Big Horn 3010RE. Any opinions on these models?

Also, can you plug a 50amp unit into a 30 amp slot if you don't run both ACs? That's all they have at the park by the place we are picking up the camper from....

Thanks,

Anna
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Old 11-06-2014, 03:35 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Annaoinga View Post

Also, can you plug a 50amp unit into a 30 amp slot if you don't run both ACs? That's all they have at the park by the place we are picking up the camper from....

Thanks,

Anna
30A will limit you to running 1 A/C --- you may have to watch what other heavy current items (HW heater on electricity, microwave, toasters, etc.) that you have running at the same time as your A/C. You'll soon find out when the breaker trips if you have exceeded 30A.

Have a safe trip home.
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:59 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Annaoinga View Post
Thanks for the advice. We have decided to buy new - we found a dealer that is offering some great discount. He is going to install air bags and we will pull it home and see how it does. If it strains we will start looking for a dually to swap to. Can't pass up the deal on one I think we will be happy in full timing.

It's either a 2015 Montana 3610RL, 2014 Montana 3725RL or 2015 Big Horn 3010RE. Any opinions on these models?

Also, can you plug a 50amp unit into a 30 amp slot if you don't run both ACs? That's all they have at the park by the place we are picking up the camper from....

Thanks,

Anna
As long as you have the proper adapter and be careful not to try to run too much at once (turn off air when using microwave, etc)
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:07 PM   #29
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The power question has already been answered. As for the models. We looked at Montana, Big Horn/Big Country as well. Went with Alpine because we got a much better deal and didn't see much difference between the Montana. The Big Horn/big Country was a nice unit, but we felt they skimped on some items that just cheapened the deal. Example, closet closures. They had the plastic clips vs the metal locks we have on the Alpine.
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