2022 fuzion 430 heat is weak

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Jasin I misspoke about the RV regulator being adjustable - they are. When I read your question I immediately recalled (I thought) my conversation with Marshall Excelsior when the first time I was going to replace the OE regulator with one of theirs years back. I thought I remembered they said it was set at the factory and not adjustable but they are. The more I think about it maybe they said it was factory set and only a trained person should adjust it.... I should have known not to depend on an old memory and pop off an answer without researching it. Heck, I've looked at that adjustment on them but never messed with it - just replaced them. Sorry for the misdirection and I will research first before relying on my memory in the future.

No worries!

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by jasin1

Adding to John’s statement.. furnaces have a temperature rise specification..usually between 30-60 degrees ..meaning if it was 20 deg inside the structure the return (incoming air) for the furnace would be 20 deg…the output air would only be between 50- 80 deg..that’s on a residential furnace of maybe 90000 btus.

Rv furnaces are much smaller and the surface area of the heat exchanger isn’t that big..I’m sure the rv furnace temp rise is on the low end.

As the rv warms up the output air temp should steadily climb because the return air temp is getting warmer till the rv gets to design temperature…

You may be pulling cold air from the basement if the coroplast isn’t sealed properly…this would keep the incoming air artificially colder preventing the furnace from ever reaching its optimum temperature output

Return (incoming) air will be dependent on placement of the furnace. Mine is a fifth wheel and the furnace is under the fridge so ALL return air is from the cabin.

I have seen some fifth wheels with the furnace in the front basement behind the rear wall, and often the return grill is incorporated into the steps to the bedroom.
So placement of the furnace can have a big impact. Poor design? Maybe or a lack of space elsewhere because of slides/appliances etc.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Return (incoming) air will be dependent on placement of the furnace. Mine is a fifth wheel and the furnace is under the fridge so ALL return air is from the cabin.

I have seen some fifth wheels with the furnace in the front basement behind the rear wall, and often the return grill is incorporated into the steps to the bedroom.
So placement of the furnace can have a big impact. Poor design? Maybe or a lack of space elsewhere because of slides/appliances etc.

Mine is a grill under the stairs ..haven’t really looked at it much because when I’m on vacation I don’t like to think about hvac systems…trying to forget about them lol

I was under the assumption that it’s an open plenum that just pulls over to the furnace thru the whole basement area behind the wall.
I don’t know how they seal that area from the underbelly but I’m thinking it’s spray foam..if you have outside cold air getting into that area it will cause the furnace to run cooler..

I assumed the open plenum is part of the heated underbelly arctic package lol

[chuckster57]

Depends on ducting. My plenum is open on the bottom, rectangular gasket and it blows warm air into the ductwork. Some have 3 or 4” round knockouts that ductwork attaches to.

In any case the furnace itself has no contact with the underbelly, either screwed to the floor like mine, or screwed to the floor with ducting. Some applications set the furnace on a raised platform and some are vertical not horizontal.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Depends on ducting. My plenum is open on the bottom, rectangular gasket and it blows warm air into the ductwork. Some have 3 or 4” round knockouts that ductwork attaches to.

In any case the furnace itself has no contact with the underbelly, either screwed to the floor like mine, or screwed to the floor with ducting. Some applications set the furnace on a raised platform and some are vertical not horizontal.

I’m gonna take a look at mine one day..I don’t have any return duct ..it just pulls air thru louvres in the side of the furnace I believe. And the furnace is in the basement not under a cabinet like in some units

The grill under the stairs is just a open grill

The supply side is all ductwork but the return is what is considered an “open plenum” design..you see that in office buildings, you will have all ducted supply’s but the return duct is everything above the drop ceiling. No physical return ductwork..they just use open grills in the ceiling to pull the air from the offices

It makes the entire space above the ceiling a “conditioned space”

What I was trying to say was the area where the furnace is located is an open plenum area ..that area needs to be sealed from outside air for the furnace to perform at its best.

My boat has a heat pump system…it has ductwork to the supply registers and a 10” duct for the return..both of these terminate into the living area

The rv system I have only the supply’s terminate in the living area the return is down under the basement.

I imaging they do that so the heated return air helps to warm the underbelly

I will give it a rest now lol I’ve already talked about furnaces more then I wanted to today and probably more then you all care to hear

[Fuzionfrustration]

Thank you, I suspect the unit is pulling cold air in somewhere.

The dealer tech called me and stated they got it up to 50 degrees you can come pick her up”.

My friend is able to get the same trailer, different year up to 70+f so the cold air being drawn in would make sense.

[roadglide]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Jerry, Help me out. What does the duct tape comment mean? Also, the guy lives in Dallas (I suppose Dallas Texas) and temps can get into the 20s at night. I personally have camped in those temps and use ONE electric heater which keeps the cabin decently warm and in the morning when we get up, turn on the camper's heater to make it toasty while breakfast gets staarted.

I suggest, if at a campground to use an electric heater during the cold part of the night and then the camper's heater for a bit in the early morning. Folks will disagree because the wiring in a camper is sub standard so put in an outlet with 12 ga wire and a residential shallow box and outlet. BTW: My camper's heater will toast you out. Suggest you check routing on the duct work and make sure it is sealed properly; guess the dealership should know that.

Toyhuler and many other models have headed underbelly with hot air vent ducked into the storage area where the pump ,hot water heater are. I have duct tape over polar vent what keystone calls heated underbelly .

[ChuckS]

If your furnace is mounted below the fifth wheel flooring behind the rear access door in the basement it is drawing air from the entire underbelly as well as every gap and opening under there.. The coroplast is not an airtight seal so it is also drawing outside air from there as well as any hydraulic slide out piston ram hole thru the frame..

I just ran my furnace last week while replacing the mattress. The outside temp was 18 degrees. The RV interior was at about 38 degrees.. In about 15 minutes I had the inside temp up to 60 degrees running the furnace

I have two stairwell vents.. They draw next to nothing if the furnace is running.. The are covered over and have been for eight years... All my stairwell vents do is:
.. allow cold air to flow into the living area from the basement and underbelly
.. allow hot air to flow in from outside during the summer making the AC units work harder then they need to

Others have different situations for their furnace returns.. depends on the unit

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

If your furnace is mounted below the fifth wheel flooring behind the rear access door in the basement it is drawing air from the entire underbelly as well as every gap and opening under there.. The coroplast is not an airtight seal so it is also drawing outside air from there as well as any hydraulic slide out piston ram hole thru the frame..

I just ran my furnace last week while replacing the mattress. The outside temp was 18 degrees. The RV interior was at about 38 degrees.. In about 15 minutes I had the inside temp up to 60 degrees running the furnace

I have two stairwell vents.. They draw next to nothing if the furnace is running.. The are covered over and have been for eight years... All my stairwell vents do is:
.. allow cold air to flow into the living area from the basement and underbelly
.. allow hot air to flow in from outside during the summer making the AC units work harder then they need to

Others have different situations for their furnace returns.. depends on the unit

Normal 5th wheel construction is to lay down a floor deck on top of the frame, and the furnace is set on top of that. Now the basement edges may not be sealed well against outside air intrusion, so I would check along the edge of the J panel. That said I have not sealed the edge of our basement storage space, and at the wall edge. The normal temperature during cold weather, near or at freezing is about 48 to 50 degrees, when it got to 19 degrees outside the other day it got down to 44 degrees. The only heat is the bedroom duct riser.

[pdaniel]

I owned a 2017 Cougar, not a toy hauler, but had the same issue-crappy design with little heat at the ends of the runs.
Bathroom would be a sauna while living area (rear living) and bedroom cold enough to hang a deer carcass.
For two years I attempted to resolve the problem and the final resolution was to trade the trailer for a competitor’s brand-one with the same size furnace and close to the same floor plan-but-sufficient heat throughout the rig.
When we owned the Cougar we had space heater in the bedroom and the electric fireplace on continuously-an expensive alternative when paying for electricity.

Good luck

[sbaker]

You say "3 inches in diameter". In the fuzion that I had the heat came out of rectangular registers in the floor in the living area. Are the round vents in the ceiling?