Newbie Question

[Baysider]

We want to eventually go across country. This truck can’t take us. The next one will.

[Baysider]

Well, we pulled our Passport home with the Dakota in 100-105 heat index. The heat coming off the asphalt was blistering. Within a mile of the dealership the AC vents start blowing hot air. Open the windows and shut off the AC. Temperature gauge climbed past normal. We had a Echo brake controller installed but we came to a light that went yellow and we were unable to stop, so we went through. It changed to red as we passed. I had trouble seeing around the trailer in my stock mirrors. We began to wonder if the Dakota was going to give out on the highway. The wind was blowing us around to where I could feel it but not swaying. We made it home and backed the Passport safely into the driveway. Even with the loan we had just made for the trailer, we decided we had to buy a bigger truck or not go any where.

We went to the local new car dealer and ended buying a beast (to us). A 2014 Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi, lifted, with spaced wheels to a wide stance. With a Class IV hitch rated to pull over 10,000 lbs., 3,000 over the rated GVWR of the trailer. Maximum tongue weight over 1,000 lbs, 400 lbs. more than the maximum loaded tongue weight of the trailer. It’s still a half ton pickup but safer by far. We now a have monthly rig combined cost of over $600 in new loans plus increased insurance and personal property tax. So we wonder if we can afford to go camping!

Still to be bought is an anti-sway kit, running boards for the truck, and oh yes, the truck probably going to get about 9 miles to gallon when we are pulling. But, a friend called and said they are doing a weekend at a campground not far from here and the one spot left open is right next to them……

[Campermike]

What wdh do you have now? I would definitely want wdh with sway control. Equalizer e4 is a popular one. I have the lower model fastesway e2 and it does the job for my smaller trailer. For a longer one id want the e4.
Also although the ram is probably much better than you had, many of them still have limited payload. Mine is only 1401 lbs. The motor will likely pull your trailer fine but you will be close or over on payload and may still be fighting the trailer in windy conditions. I know I am close with my 2300bh as I have scaled the rig before. Your trailer is larger and heavier.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Baysider

Well, we pulled our Passport home with the Dakota in 100-105 heat index. The heat coming off the asphalt was blistering. Within a mile of the dealership the AC vents start blowing hot air. Open the windows and shut off the AC. Temperature gauge climbed past normal. We had a Echo brake controller installed but we came to a light that went yellow and we were unable to stop, so we went through. It changed to red as we passed. I had trouble seeing around the trailer in my stock mirrors. We began to wonder if the Dakota was going to give out on the highway. The wind was blowing us around to where I could feel it but not swaying. We made it home and backed the Passport safely into the driveway. Even with the loan we had just made for the trailer, we decided we had to buy a bigger truck or not go any where.

We went to the local new car dealer and ended buying a beast (to us). A 2014 Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi, lifted, with spaced wheels to a wide stance. With a Class IV hitch rated to pull over 10,000 lbs., 3,000 over the rated GVWR of the trailer. Maximum tongue weight over 1,000 lbs, 400 lbs. more than the maximum loaded tongue weight of the trailer. It’s still a half ton pickup but safer by far. We now a have monthly rig combined cost of over $600 in new loans plus increased insurance and personal property tax. So we wonder if we can afford to go camping!

Still to be bought is an anti-sway kit, running boards for the truck, and oh yes, the truck probably going to get about 9 miles to gallon when we are pulling. But, a friend called and said they are doing a weekend at a campground not far from here and the one spot left open is right next to them……

Not trying to be cynical but this is bad decision #3. A "lifted truck with offset wheels" is not a truck built for towing, period! What you have described is a truck that's been altered (butchered IMO) for no practical purpose and at the detriment to it's towing capability which likely wasn't much to begin with.

When you lift a truck you raise the center of gravity, bad for towing. Lifting also changes the steering geometry, rear differential pinion angle and other issues if not done properly. What's that mean? Handling issues which will be accenyuated while towing and premature component wear. Wheel offsets will have the same effect with added negative effects. I'm guessing you're new "beast" has some tires with off road aggressive tread which also is bad for towing.

Not to burst your bubble but your "beast" is most likely a " show queen" and has no buissness towing a camper. Sounds like you've been mis-lead by yet another salesman. If you have a "buyer's remorse" law where you live where you can rrturn that truck J would exercise that option.

[wiredgeorge]

The struggle goes on. Camping ain't cheap and the wrong truck will make it a whole lot less safe and less fun. Buying a truck that was lifted and had the wheels spaced doesn't seem like a great way to tow. If you can shed yourself of that truck and get one that was modified in a manner inappropriatly for towing you might give it a shot.

[sourdough]

I hate to pile on but what has been said is accurate. It's very unfortunate but if you have the right of rescission I would exercise that today. The mods on that truck are not conducive to towing in any manner and in fact can be dangerous.

Lifts have a place; clearance for offroading or for showing off, not much else. Have lifted quite a few trucks but strictly for ground clearance off road. In every case it makes them much more unstable in sudden maneuvers at speed. Also if they did not do a bonafide full on lift (completely new suspension/springs/bolts etc.) but instead used something like blocks on the rear axle or any other shortcut it's a recipe for failure even without the stress of an RV on/behind it.

Spacing the wheels out has no practical purpose other than show. It weakens the suspension, axles, spindles, wheels and tires when supporting a load because the rest of the truck was not meant for the support points to be moved out that far.

I could go on because there are many, many problems with using a truck like that to tow a 7k lb. trailer with. Do some do it? Yes. Is it smart or safe? No. Hopefully you can work a deal wherever you got it and get something more adequate for towing. Remember; towing an RV is serious stuff and should be approached as serious "business" and not as a frivolous, fun, "show off" type of activity. Good luck.

[Baysider]

Nope I’ll do what have to with this truck including undoing the lift and the tires. Thanks for all your help. Adios.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Baysider

Nope I’ll do what have to with this truck including undoing the lift and the tires. Thanks for all your help. Adios.

Assess what they have done to modify it. May be nothing more than spacers behind the wheels and blocks under the suspension springs. If they bought new offset wheels and a full lifted suspension it gets more difficult and costly to bring back to OEM (or at least close).

If they offset the tires I suspect they put larger tires on the truck. If so that's not a complete show stopper. If they are wider with aggressive tread they aren't as good as a less aggressive tire for stability/stopping/rain etc. but will work until it's time to replace them.

I've owned several 5.7L combinations and the engine will work fine with that trailer. IIRC the '14 has the 6 speed tranny; what rear axle ratio do you have? 3.55 will get by on a stock truck but really struggle if it has oversized tires. 3.92 or 4.10 are much better.

Congrats on getting a bigger truck; the Dakota wasn't going to cut it from any perspective and good luck on getting this one "unmodded" so that it works well for towing your trailer.

[travelin texans]

Hate pile on, but the Dakota wasn't near enough truck so you took a baby step forward & went to the "beast" 1500????? I think you should've taken a giant step & at least got the "for sure beast" 2500.......unmodified!!!! The 2500 is the same size truck, same motor/tranny, same mpg & probably very little difference in price, but much better suited to your needs than the 1500.

[Baysider]

Ok I bought a pussy cat not a beast. And a modified one at that. Dog pile the Newb it’s ok. Mistakes continue to be made, i get it. I continue to believe this forum is the best place to get good advice . Anyway, i took the rig to the scales and drove it on the highway a short distance. Big improvement, that’s a fact. Here are the figures I got: Truck and 2 passengers 5,760lbs. Tongue weight 880 lbs. Bumper drop 4 inches. Trailer empty 5,540 lbs. Whole rig weighs 11,300 lbs. Truck payload sticker 1,313 lbs. Tow rating class IV hitch 10,000 lbs. Payload on trailer 1,724 lbs. as listed on the sticker.

Sourdough, it looks like springs and shocks. There are front and rear anti sway bars. It would be nice if the Rough Country sticker had the lift height listed. I know there is a way to measure the suspension and figure the lift probably in the RAM forum.

Here is how I intend to proceed, comments welcome:

1. Order a weight distribution hitch kit. Done. Edit: 800-1200 lbs tongue weight
2. Run all tires at max load psi when towing.
3. Distribute loading in the trailer to minimize additional tongue weight.
4. Run all tanks empty on the road.
5. Edit: Echo brake controller added.

I forgot to mention the pussycat has straight pipes (with cats for inspection). Ought to be a big hit around the campground about 5 in the morning. I will wait until a decent hour and eventually add mufflers (darn).

[Baysider]

Sourdough, I got in touch with the previous owner. The truck has a 2 inch leveling kit only in the front.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by Baysider

Sourdough, I got in touch with the previous owner. The truck has a 2 inch leveling kit only in the front.

This might be a dumb question for a guy who has owned pickups for many years but how do they space the tires out when it is lifted? That really doesn't seem like a good idea for the paint, etc. or folks behind if there is gravel involved.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

This might be a dumb question for a guy who has owned pickups for many years but how do they space the tires out when it is lifted? That really doesn't seem like a good idea for the paint, etc. or folks behind if there is gravel involved.

George
Go online & look up " wheel spacers".
My son had them on a couple lifted Jeeps so the gigantic wheels/tires had more room.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

George
Go online & look up " wheel spacers".
My son had them on a couple lifted Jeeps so the gigantic wheels/tires had more room.

Thanks. Did and can't think why anyone would want to stress their axles with those things but to each his own.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

This might be a dumb question for a guy who has owned pickups for many years but how do they space the tires out when it is lifted? That really doesn't seem like a good idea for the paint, etc. or folks behind if there is gravel involved.

From his description the aftermarket wheels did not have the same offset and needed the spacers for "tire clearence" . That sounds to me like someone didn’t know what they were doing when they decided to go macho on the looks. Wheel spacers to compensate the wrong offset. Problem is many wheel spacers don't meet ghe demands of a loaded truck and stud failures are common on unloaded trucks that get driven hard. That's the problem when someone that doesn’t know what they are doing starts buying and installing parts based on looks and ignors function. All kinds of issue can arise like the steering wheel not returning to center after a turn, suspension binding during turns or bumps, excessive pinion angle that can cause u-joint binding and premature pinion bearing and seal wear, znd the list can gobon.

[Baysider]

Flybuoy, I may be able to sell the wheels and tires to get back to normal running gear but it will have to be done in one move. I can’t go anywhere with the trailer until our DMV appointment on the 30th. I’m sure the Good Year shop nearby can fix me up with the correct tires for what I’m doing. These tires alone are worth $250 a piece. The wheels I have no clue but they look expensive. Maybe they will make an exchange. What I want to put on has to be cheaper.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Baysider

Flybuoy, I may be able to sell the wheels and tires to get back to normal running gear but it will have to be done in one move. I can’t go anywhere with the trailer until our DMV appointment on the 30th. I’m sure the Good Year shop nearby can fix me up with the correct tires for what I’m doing. These tires alone are worth $250 a piece. The wheels I have no clue but they look expensive. Maybe they will make an exchange. What I want to put on has to be cheaper.

As an "outsider with no idea about your financial situation", it sure looks to me like the truck you bought is ill equipped to do what you're asking it to do. Attempting to "undo a previous owner's modifications" will only add to the purchase costs of that truck and still will leave you with unanswered questions regarding how his mods affected the OEM components that you're not replacing....

In other words, even when you're done buying new tires and wheels and removing a lift kit, will the truck have the "objective reliability needed for heavy duty towing?"... Yes, you're beyond the "light duty towing" realm when you put a travel trailer that size and weight behind any truck, whether it's a half ton, 3/4 ton or one ton variety...

My opinion, for what it might be worth to you, is this: Surely there must be another "not abused with mods and unknown driving conditions" truck that you could have selected..... It looks like this has become a "try to make a bad situation work as a last resort"... Isn't there a better truck available to consider? With the costs to "un-mod this one" you've increased your purchase price considerably.... I'd look at options slightly above the purchase price of this one, knowing the costs involved to remove the mods....

[Baysider]

JRTH, Yep, you are absolutely right. And, everyone who helped me get into this fix sold me something. They both knew what i needed, I made it plain, and they both did me wrong. Had I a chance to do this over again, i wouldn’t. Simple as that. Now I’m stuck and my wife doesn’t understand any of this. So the only choice I have is to make it as right as can be done with what I have. I’m going to see my long time friend who runs our local Good Year store Monday and lay it out for him. He will set me straight even if it is the old arm over the shoulder talk. Then I will have to explain at home. But I will have a plan.

[sourdough]

If there is no way to "undo" the acquisition of that 14 Ram 1500 (a very good truck IMO but this one is not set up to tow a larger trailer) and you are going to try to "unmod" the truck there might be some good news (I have no idea what was done technically).

If, ant that's a big IF, the previous owner went cheap and placed spacers under the front springs as the leveling kit all you have to do is raise the truck, disengage the springs and pull the spacers....IF. Also, MAYBE the previous owner did not go to the expense of buying expensive new offset wheels and just used spacers behind them. If so all you have to do is remove them. From the way you describe them he could have very well bought the expensive new wheels with a different offset. If so that might be an expensive proposition to correct but mandatory IMO to tow that trailer safely.

Now straight pipes on a pickup... All I can ask is WHY?? I tried a dual catback system on a new Ram 1500 along with a cold air intake and kept it on there about 3 weeks before I took it all off. I could not stand the noise and droning while driving. And as you said, no one in a campground is going to appreciate it one bit plus there will be noise limitations in a campground and probably in the state, city or county. Drop the pipes, add some good Flowmasters, cut the cats back in and go on down the road.....quietly!

[Northofu1]

If the wheels and tires were expensive and popular you will be able to sell them.
Loud truck? Who cares, there are enough motorcycle riders out there that don't care either.
WDH? I never had a problem with the Blue Ox Swaypro 10k. Worked great, with my 1500 and the 2500. Was 1/2 the price of the Equalizer 4pt at the time of purchase. Took me 2 days to sell it when I moved into the 5er.