How difficult is it to change pads on 2007 Outback 23RS?

[jrhoads23]

I did some searching and wasn't able to find any topics on servicing your own TT brakes. I have a 2007 Outback 23RS and wouldn't mind tackling it myself, unless people chime in and say it is a royal PITA and I should just take it somewhere.

Anyone done it? How tough is it? I do most/all my maintenance on my truck so I am guessing this is something I could do - but again, never done it before so looking for some feedback.

[chuckster57]

Your TT won’t have pads unless someone upgraded to disc brakes. If you have drum brakes then you have brake shoes.

Changing just the shoes isn’t difficult, but it’s a lot easier to just change out the entire backing plate assembly. If you don’t have self adjusting, it’s a very worthwhile upgrade.

[jrhoads23]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Changing just the shoes isn’t difficult, but it’s a lot easier to just change out the entire backing plate assembly. If you don’t have self adjusting, it’s a very worthwhile upgrade.

What is the cost difference between the two? We will most likely be selling the TT at some point soon so if it is a big cost difference I would rather just replace the shoes.

Is there a writeup anywhere showing how to do this? Or is it real straightforward when you get down there and open it up?

[cavie]

Originally Posted by jrhoads23

What is the cost difference between the two? We will most likely be selling the TT at some point soon so if it is a big cost difference I would rather just replace the shoes.

Is there a writeup anywhere showing how to do this? Or is it real straightforward when you get down there and open it up?

It's not hard. YouTube is your friend. DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. You will forget how to put it back together. You can always go look at the other side.

[jrhoads23]

Originally Posted by cavie

It's not hard. YouTube is your friend. DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. You will forget how to put it back together. You can always go look at the other side.

Yep... thanks guys. I ordered some self adjusting ones and will try and tackle it this weekend or early next week. Thanks!

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by jrhoads23

What is the cost difference between the two? We will most likely be selling the TT at some point soon so if it is a big cost difference I would rather just replace the shoes.

Is there a writeup anywhere showing how to do this? Or is it real straightforward when you get down there and open it up?

Assuming you have 10x2.25" brake shoes the shoes will run you about $40 per wheel https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0aAvAWEALw_wcB and you'll probably need a new magnet which will run you about $35 https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0aAvAWEALw_wcB

So, cost is around $75 per wheel for shoes and a magnet.

You can buy a brake/magnet assembly ready to bolt onto the axle for $51 https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...KEBRK-35R.html

It doesn't make a lot of "economic sense" or "time management sense" to disassembly the old brake assembly, clean, and then reassemble with "OLD" parts when you can buy a complete new assembly for less and have all new parts without the time spent rebuilding the old plate.

[MarkEHansen]

Additionally, while you have the drums off - clean, inspect and repack those bearings

[lcarver02]

Let a shop do it. I had a boss who lost an eye from a brake spring while he was working on a drum brake system. Always wear safety glasses. good luck.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by jrhoads23

Yep... thanks guys. I ordered some self adjusting ones and will try and tackle it this weekend or early next week. Thanks!

Finished the same install this past weekend. Go ahead and order the rear seals for the hubs while you're at it. Swap them out and repack the grease (red tacky grease is my favorite). I learned how to do it by hand but the bearing packer works really well. It won't add much time to your overall project. I finished replacing the seals and all 4 brakes in just under 3.5 hours, but I had already repacked the bearings. Hint...get double-lip seals. I put on single lip seals and John helped me to see the error of my ways.

BTW, yesterday i repacked my small 5x8 trailer bearings and cleaned the hubs. Took less than an hour.

Here is what i used to replace the seals and brakes:

- Red tacky grease
- Grease gun with flexible hose
- roll of shop towels (maybe 2)
- 4 new 2-lip rear seals(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMHIZ0Y...roduct_details)
- Seal puller (https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-p...ips-63039.html)
- Nev-R Adjust brakes (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLXNBT2...roduct_details)
- Channel Locks
- Flat head screwdriver
- Brake Cleaner
- Blue heat shrink connectors (14 - 16 gauge)
- Lighter or heat gun
- Rubber mallet
- 4-lb hammer
- jack (i have a 20-ton bottle jack); https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton...ack-66482.html
- jack stands
- 4-way (star) foldable lugnut wrench (https://www.harborfreight.com/14-inc...nch-95932.html)
- 150 lb torque wrench (my lugnuts are 115 ft-lbs)
- 11/13 socket; part of this set (https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...-pc-69560.html)
- extension bar for torque wrench
- wire cutters
- small wooden block (maybe 8" long, 4" wide, 1" deep for tapping seals / dust cover)
- throw away plastic bags for trash
- knee pads / kneeling pad
- bearing packer (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-H...a-568857223402)
- safety glasses
- disposable gloves

Hopefully that's it. My camper is 25 mins from my house, so I tried to remember everything.