30/15 amp splitter/combiner

[gearhead]

I don't know why I hadn't thought of this before. We'll be back at Richmond VA. for the NASCAR race in April. Weather can be either very cool or very humid and hot. Our RV spot there has 30 amp and a 15 amp. I'm thinking if it gets hot I sure would like to run more than 1 A/C. I've seen the 30+15 amp splitters before but never really thought about where or when I would need them. I've got a Camco on order from Amazon for $50.
As I understand, the splitter just adds the hot leg from the 15 amp to the female 50 amp plug. Anything I need to be aware of? I assume my Progressive EMS plugged into the female end of the splitter will function normally.

[travelin texans]

IMHO! Save your $$!
I'm sure there'll be others that disagree.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

IMHO! Save your $$!
I'm sure there'll be others that disagree.

I agree. If the splitter only provides 15A on the other leg, you would have to make sure NOTHING else is on on that side to run the AC without damaging the compressor IMO.

[sourdough]

I agree with Chuck, and even then, if you have marginal power at the site the potential for the AC to pull more than is available is present. I would also be checking that adapter plug in frequently to make sure it wasn't arcing or cooking the receptacle due to worn/pitted/rusted components.

[CedarCreekWoody]

I'm a bit bewildered by this adapter. What you describe could put 30 amps on one leg and only 15 amps on the other. If both legs are on the same phase this could put 45 amps on the common wire (which is sized for only 30 amps.) But I'm out of my element here; this is just me speculating.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

I'm a bit bewildered by this adapter. What you describe could put 30 amps on one leg and only 15 amps on the other. If both legs are on the same phase this could put 45 amps on the common wire (which is sized for only 30 amps.) But I'm out of my element here; this is just me speculating.

If I am reading right he has a 50A service trailer. There will be two load wires, one common (neutral) and one ground. The neutral should be rated for 50A. If the adapter works like I think it does, it will put 30A one one leg and 15A on the other leg.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If I am reading right he has a 50A service trailer. There will be two load wires, one common (neutral) and one ground. The neutral should be rated for 50A. If the adapter works like I think it does, it will put 30A one one leg and 15A on the other leg.

That's my understanding as well. And not knowing what's wired to which leg in the rv who knows what might try to run on the 15 amp side besides one ac.

[gearhead]

I can watch each leg on my Progressive EMS.
Here is what is described on Amazon. The reviews help understand, I think.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[flybouy]

As far as running 2 a/c units there's too many variables to give a definitive answer. In a "typical" 30 Amp camper you cannot run the a/c when plugged into a 15 Amp outlet on a 15 Amp circuit (I.e. 15amp breaker supplying 15 Amp outlet with 14/2 wire). The load of the converter and a/c unit is too great. On a 20 Amp circuit you may have a shot depending on the a/c unit (btu and if it's newer or has a soft start).

The issue would be what's on that bus that the 15 Amp side is powering? The only way to actually know would be to buy the adapter and do some research. In any case, you won't be able to power "everything" you can with a 50 amp but would require some "manual power management". As for the EMS working that would be another experiment and I'd suspect would also depend on if the two outlets are fed by the same phase and the loads applied to each leg and how the EMS "reads" the load on the neutrals as they would be common at the 50 a female end of the adapter.

[gearhead]

I can do some experimenting when we're on the road and plugged in to 50amp. Turn things on and see what is on each leg.
I've got a 50amp receptacle in my garage and could do that now but dang I just pulled about everything out of the storage bay to put my spare tire in there, and then put everything back. I'd have to get the long heavy 50 amp extension cord back out. I'm resting up to watch tonights Chili Bowl midget race live on TV. I think this is the first one I've missed in about 20 years.

[Northofu1]

The following is from one of the reviewers on amazon site.

"As usual, most bad reviews for this product are from people who don't understand how it works or what it can and cannot do based on the laws of physics. If you know what you're getting into and what the limitations are, this is a very useful device.
We had put in a 30-amp socket for our trailer at our house in the past but recently upgraded to a dual a/c 50-amp trailer. Luckily we have a non-GFCI 20-amp outlet nearby in the garage so I bought this to be able to run both air conditioners when we're using the trailer as a guest house. In conjunction with our Progressive Industries PT50C (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC4SWM) I'm able to monitor the current on each leg to know what I can and can't run simultaneously.
For those of you who may not know, a 50-amp RV connection actually gives you 100 amps via two independent out-of-phase 50-amp legs. Some devices in your RV are on one leg and some are on the other. While watching the above-mentioned power monitor, you can turn things on and off to figure out which devices are on which leg and how much current they draw.
What this "cheater" plug gets you is a 30-amp leg and a 15/20-amp leg, so you still have to be aware of what you're running but you're better off than being stuck with just 30 amps. My living area a/c, microwave, and fridge are on leg 1 (the 30-amp connector). My bedroom a/c, water heater, and battery charger are on leg 2 (the 15/20-amp leg). So I know if I keep the water heater on propane and haven't recently connected drained batteries, I can safely run the bedroom a/c at the same time as the living area a/c on the other leg.
Note that you cannot use this with a 15/20 amp GFCI outlet. It will trip the breaker. This means you won't be able to use this at most RV parks because code requires those to be GFCI outlets."

Good Luck

[CedarCreekWoody]

Good points all. This is an interesting device and could be useful if you understand the limitations.

[cavie]

The 20 amp outlet on a ped is GFI'ed. With that splitter, it will not work because of that! End of story.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by cavie

The 20 amp outlet on a ped is GFI'ed. With that splitter, it will not work because of that! End of story.

No, not necessarily. Some campers get along fine with GFCIs. I connect mine to one at home with no problem.

[gearhead]

Originally Posted by cavie

The 20 amp outlet on a ped is GFI'ed. With that splitter, it will not work because of that! End of story.

Dang, tell us how you really feel. LOL

[gearhead]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

No, not necessarily. Some campers get along fine with GFCIs. I connect mine to one at home with no problem.

Yep, I've got mine connected to 20 amp GFCI as we speak.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by cavie

The 20 amp outlet on a ped is GFI'ed. With that splitter, it will not work because of that! End of story.

Beginning of story, can you explain why?

[gearhead]

cavie might be right.
In the Amazon description it says will not work on GFI outlet.
The next question would be, is the outlet at the racetrack GFI? I'll let y'all know in April.
Back to the Chili Bowl..........

[bobbecky]

Whether connecting to a GFI outlet is dangerous or not depends on the RV and the condition of the electrical system. This is a pretty good article discussing GFI outlets when used to power an RV. https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electric...nuisance-trip/

[cavie]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

No, not necessarily. Some campers get along fine with GFCIs. I connect mine to one at home with no problem.

This is different than 2 in series. That dogbone WILL NOT work on a GFI Circuit. Take it from a master electrician. GFI can not share a neutral with the opposite phase. Hot and neutral have to match. The neutral goes thru the GFI breaker, unlike a normal non-GFI circuit. The average person has no idea how a GFI works.