Dometic Fridge/ no 12v power

[Moosedog]

Last time out, I attempted to pre-cool the fridge during the 4 hour drive to the campsite and arrived to find that the fridge didn’t get cold. So, are there fuses that are possibly blown ? Fridge worked fine on 120v. Propane was sufficient... Thx in advance.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Moosedog

Last time out, I attempted to pre-cool the fridge during the 4 hour drive to the campsite and arrived to find that the fridge didn’t get cold. So, are there fuses that are possibly blown ? Fridge worked fine on 120v. Propane was sufficient... Thx in advance.

I'm confused by the title "no 12v to fridge" and the "fridge worked fine on propane and 120v". You don't list what year or model your trailer is jor the fridge. If it's a two way fridge lp and 120 vac then it won't work without 12 v DC for the control board.

4 hours is not sufficient time to cool down an lp/ac RV fridge. The hotter it is i.e. In the 90's with high humidity the longer it takes. Typically you need to start them up 24 hours in advance of use.

[chuckster57]

RV fridges require 12VDC for the control board to operate. If you turn it on and use AUTO mode, it will choose 110VAC for the heating element. If the trailer isn’t plugged into shore power, then the fridge should use propane for the flame. If it’s in GAS mode, it will only use propane for the flame.

Make sure your battery is up to snuff, then remove the lower access panel on the outside of the fridge. You should see a plastic block with 12V wires coming from the trailer, and then on to the fridge. There are 2 fuses on the control board, and you need to take the cover off. The glass fuse is for the 110VAC side and the other one is for the 12VDC side.

Does the fridge turn on? If so set it to GAS, and watch for a flame and listen for a sparking. If you don’t get either, and the fridge isn’t cold, odds are the fuse is bad or the board is bad.

Also, if you can, have someone else turn it on while your watching. Listen for the gas valve to open. It’s the square thing with two wires attached down where the orifice blows the gas. It should click.

[Moosedog]

Thanks Chuckster... I don’t think the fridge even turned on, and didn’t hear any clicking that would indicate any “sparking” attempts. It has worked previously on 12v, so, I’ll investigate as per your advice. ����

[chuckster57]

If it doesn’t even turn on, start at that block. After that the 12V positive should go to a thermal fuse, then the thermal circuit breaker on the heat stack and then to the board. The common failure is the thermal fuse. You can bypass it to get you going but replace it ASAP.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by Moosedog

Thanks Chuckster... I don’t think the fridge even turned on, and didn’t hear any clicking that would indicate any “sparking” attempts. It has worked previously on 12v, so, I’ll investigate as per your advice. ����

Just a tip...
when you've been parked with the propane turned off for a few days and are going to use it to run the fridge while traveling... Turn on the propane and then go inside and light the stovetop burners for a couple of minutes until the flames are blue... then turn them off and hit the ON/AUTO button on the fridge and it should light.. you'll hear it clicking the DSI

When performing the above technique make sure that you are NOT connected to shore power.. (120 volts)

I always check at the first stop to make sure that the check light is not on.. if it is I turn the fridge off for a couple of minutes and then back on and it will then stay on until it switches to shore power.

[Moosedog]

Thanks Javi... I did check the fridge at a stop a few hours later, that’s when I noticed the problem...

[ChuckS]

When you get to destination these pics might help..

First is Dometic style fridge circuit board.. from my RM1350

Second is circuit board of typical Norcold depicting fuse locations

Third is typical flue stack thermal breaker.. from my 1350

[wiredgeorge]

It is nice to have pictures of these components but where are these components located so as to be visible as in the pictures? I have a Dometic A/C & Propane with an automatic switch... are these behind the panel on the outside for Dometic and Norcold. I shudder at the thought of yanking the refrigerator. I have only had my panel off once and that was to put a new drain hose on and honestly don't remember all that stuff.

[jsb5717]

the 12v fuse block should be visible from the lower exterior vent cover. The thermal switch is attached to the heat chimney on the right of the fridge, also visible from the lower exterior vent but typically behind some of the shielding. 3 or 4 screws to remove those and you should be able to see it. It's resettable but can also be bypassed. However, if the thermal switch is tripped the fridge won't work at all on propane or 110v.

[ChuckS]

The components posted in previous pics are there... for sure... location between Dometic and Norcold May vary slightly but all accessed from outside...

Typical Dometic fridge....

[travelin texans]

I reading this that you're trying to cool it down on 12 volt ONLY? If it's the 2way fridge it WILL NOT run on only 12 volt, it must be turn d to auto or gas while traveling.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I'm confused by the title "no 12v to fridge" and the "fridge worked fine on propane and 120v".

He said "propane was sufficient," which I took to indicate only that his tanks weren't empty.

[ChuckS]

Hope OP provides update with some more specifics

[flybouy]

I don't think he understood the ir runs on lp or 120vac and needs 12vdc to operate in either mode.