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Old 08-20-2020, 07:50 AM   #41
pdaniel
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Cable lock. However, in the past few years I have used an EMS I have never had one stolen. But, there is always a first.
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Old 08-20-2020, 07:50 AM   #42
geeman
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Put a loop in the cord where the two cords meet. Take a large loop Padlock and put over the two cord intersection. You probably have the removeable cord at the RV so you wouldn't even have to remove the padlock until you sold the camper.
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Old 08-20-2020, 08:23 AM   #43
CedarCreekWoody
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHaven View Post
I saw this come by in a sale flyer this week...
I have one of those, only it is steel. From Amazon.
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Old 08-20-2020, 08:49 AM   #44
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I put a padlock on the pedestal, never saw one yet that didn't have a provision for a lock.
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Old 08-20-2020, 08:51 AM   #45
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I'm sure that works, great idea!!
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Old 08-20-2020, 09:09 AM   #46
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A little sticker helps a lot

Ours has these 2x3 inch stickers on the unit and the cable. Not only will no one touch it, they avoid cutting through out campsite by walking behind the trailer, past the power pedestal.

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Old 08-20-2020, 11:14 AM   #47
Freadcamper
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Most of the electric panel boxes you plug into have a padlockable lid.
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Old 08-20-2020, 01:08 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredgeorge View Post
The ad you posted said:

"Made from durable high-quality plastic."

That has to be a joke!
Given that a thief can just as easily turn off the pole breaker, unplug your assembly, slice your RV cord with a six-buck cable cutter, and take the whole thing home to play with at his leisure, I tend to think "weakest link." Which is why mine's internal.

On this topic, I've always wondered why TSA has approved lockable firearm "security" cases made out of essentially the same material. You might think they would have developed a "boxcutter" mental reflex by now.
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Old 08-20-2020, 01:30 PM   #49
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Most of the electric panel boxes you plug into have a padlockable lid.
The vast majority that I've encountered have the breakers and outlets for 2 sites plus a 20 Amp GFI in one box. Locking it would not be kind to your neighbor.
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Old 08-20-2020, 03:46 PM   #50
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Fly, i was thinking same thing, but then i remembered sites we have been are independent for each site, not tandem sites. Mind you, we have only recently started needing plugs in's . previously our tent didn't require power... LOL
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Old 08-20-2020, 04:59 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murfscot View Post
Ours has these 2x3 inch stickers on the unit and the cable. Not only will no one touch it, they avoid cutting through out campsite by walking behind the trailer, past the power pedestal.

Good One!!!!
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Old 08-23-2020, 10:35 AM   #52
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The vast majority that I've encountered have the breakers and outlets for 2 sites plus a 20 Amp GFI in one box. Locking it would not be kind to your neighbor.
I have never encountered this.
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Old 08-23-2020, 11:03 AM   #53
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Many of the older parks we have visited had the peds for 2 sites basically back to back, sometimes with the power, water, cable (if there) on either side of a 4x4. I was told this was a throwback to when parks were either mobile home parks in the past or they were set up like a mobile home park with units back to back. The newer, RV specific parks have individual peds/utilities for each unit. I guess each has it's own merits IF they are designed properly.

The one we spend the winter in is like the former I mentioned. They are renovating so we reserved a different site for this coming winter. As I walked the site out I noticed that and individual had backed a Class A into an adjoining site (30A) then ran an extension cable to the 50A receptacle on our reserved site. I advised the owner and they said they wanted 50A and no one was in that site. I asked how long they would be there and she said she/they didn't know. I just told her to be sure and tell them come Nov. 1, if the are still there, they need to be prepared for 30A......
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Old 09-01-2020, 09:01 AM   #54
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Mine is hardwired. Can't go for a walk, display is about the fridge so I can see if there were errors and I will never "not bother" with it due to rain etc.

Next trailer will be 50 amp for sure, so no issue with it staying in my current trailer when I sell. But I've had this trailer for 10 years, and the EMS for ~8 of those.

Only thing I wish is that I could reset the display when it shows an error code. Be nice if it cleared by disabling the protection for a minute, but you have to unplug to reset it. Very minor complaint.
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