light weight trailers

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by blubuckaroo

The biggest issue I've noticed is a little "motorboating" when I hit a dip or bump.
I'm really reluctant to move to a 3/4 ton pickup since most of my driving is un-trailered. A nice ride is important to me.

You might be surprised with the ride quality of the newer 3/4 ton trucks. Mine is a 2017 and it is my daily driver in a large city. I enjoy driving it very much and the ride quality feels good to me.

[James p]

I TOWED FOR NINE YEARs with a Nissan Titan.
I had a good Weight destribiting hitch and helper springs on the rear leaf springs.
We towed on interstates with heavy truck traffic at 65mph and never had a problem

I now tow with a 3/4 ton diesel.

You will be fine if you do what I did

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by blubuckaroo

I don't think you'll have a problem. Sounds like our Silverado pickups are the same. I'm pulling a Passport 2210RBWE GT travel trailer with ours. It weighs several hundred pounds more than yours. I've actually towed it quite successfully with a 2012 Toyota Tacoma.
The biggest issue I've noticed is a little "motorboating" when I hit a dip or bump.
I'm really reluctant to move to a 3/4 ton pickup since most of my driving is un-trailered. A nice ride is important to me.

You sound exactly like I did several years ago. Had had 1/2 tons all my life, towed very little and used one for most anything and everything. I limited my trailers to what a 1/2 ton could do simply because I refused to drive anything regularly that was as harsh as the 3/4 - 1 tons I used to drive for work years ago. Fast forward to now.....

Bought a large bumper pull that was at the limit of my 1/2 ton knowingly; in fact a couple hundred pounds over payload. Made one trip and kept thinking about the payload problem. Got home and bought a 3/4 ton expecting the very worst. And, it was pretty harsh with 65psi front and 80 rear unloaded. Aired down the tires and WOW what a difference from the old days. Kept that truck for 6 years (2014) and absolutely LOVED it. Bought the 3500 in my signature below because I was no longer worried about those harsh rides of years ago and I love it as well - it just gave me more towing capacity. Once past the HD truck phobia (and they drive/ride great even with a bad back), and now a 5th wheel, I have crossed most of the lines I said I wouldn't just to have an RV. Now, the last bridge left is a diesel which I still say I don't want with every fiber in me.....but that's what I said about the HD truck and a 5th wheel. Guess I'm getting older and all those old "lines in the sand" just keep getting more blurred....

[blubuckaroo]

I have to say, I don't get into a hurry. I try to honor all the speed laws when towing. I believe that makes the difference in vehicle reliability and safety.

My dad used a '98 1500 Silverado to tow a medium size fifth wheel for years, over some pretty long passes. When he sold it with over 140K miles, there had been no failures. It even had its original hoses, belt, and plugs. He always said "don't get in a hurry." Your equipment will last longer.

[notanlines]

Blu, when I read your “I've actually towed it quite successfully with a 2012 Toyota Tacoma” that told me all I need to know about your knowledge of safe towing, capacities, and your lack of respect for other people’s lives. I believe most of the regulars here have either given you a pass because they feel sorry for you, or they’re waiting for your list of added equipment to make that truck ‘safer.’

[linux3]

Originally Posted by blubuckaroo

The biggest issue I've noticed is a little "motorboating" when I hit a dip or bump.

I bought a set of bumper stops for the rear and it really smoothed out the ride.
https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Sus...TGMRCK15S.html

[JRTJH]

"Motorboating" (in towing terms) is actually called "porpoising" and can be caused by any number of things, from too light suspension, bad shocks, too much "spring adjustment" on the WD bars or simply from the tow vehicle being "overwhelmed by the trailer load".

If it's from too light suspension, you may find things like Timbren enhancement springs or HD shocks can help. If it's from bad shocks, replace them, if it's from spring bar adjustment, you may have "too lightly rated bars" for the amount of tongue weight you're tensioning on the hitch or you may be "over-tensioning" the bars in an attempt to transfer "too much weight" off the hitch.

Porpoising is not a normal or desired activity and definitely needs some attention before things "go south quickly" in an emergency situation.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV

The towing weight question has been fully dealt with so I'll address your side question about the "hill start assist".
The vehicles that I have owned that have had this had something that would hold the brakes on at a traffic light until you pressed on the gas.
The way it worked on our vehicles was: when you wanted to use it, you press the brake pedal a bit harder while sitting at a light, on a hill. When the light turns green, you let your foot off the brake, but the system keeps the brakes locked up until you press on the gas. Then you'll feel the brakes release and off you go.

On my Rams hill start assist is to keep the truck from rolling backwards when stopped uphill. It didn't require a special push of the brake, just the usual stop. It automatically releases when you take off. IIRC it also worked in reverse, such as backing up a steep driveway.

[blubuckaroo]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

"Motorboating" (in towing terms) is actually called "porpoising" and can be caused by any number of things, from too light suspension, bad shocks, too much "spring adjustment" on the WD bars or simply from the tow vehicle being "overwhelmed by the trailer load".

If it's from too light suspension, you may find things like Timbren enhancement springs or HD shocks can help. If it's from bad shocks, replace them, if it's from spring bar adjustment, you may have "too lightly rated bars" for the amount of tongue weight you're tensioning on the hitch or you may be "over-tensioning" the bars in an attempt to transfer "too much weight" off the hitch.

Porpoising is not a normal or desired activity and definitely needs some attention before things "go south quickly" in an emergency situation.

Thanks for the advice.
I had the same motorboating when towing this trailer with the Tacoma. Adding air bags fixed that. One issue I had with the Ride Rite air bags was the continual loss of air.
I've ordered a set of Timbren helpers for my Silverado.
The motorboating isn't that severe, and my wife hasn't even noticed it, but I know it could be better.
Thanks again!

[blubuckaroo]

Originally Posted by notanlines

Blu, when I read your “I've actually towed it quite successfully with a 2012 Toyota Tacoma” that told me all I need to know about your knowledge of safe towing, capacities, and your lack of respect for other people’s lives. I believe most of the regulars here have either given you a pass because they feel sorry for you, or they’re waiting for your list of added equipment to make that truck ‘safer.’

Not,
The loaded rating of this trailer are well within the load rating of the late generation Tacoma. You probably don't know this, but the late Tacomas are about the same size as a full size pickup. It's not the same little Tacoma that kids used to jack up and play with. This one takes up the same garage space as my full size Silverado, and my car cover fits both perfectly.
My only reason for switching was the Silverado had a little more weight, and a deeper bed.
If you doubt what I'm saying about the vehicle size, GOOGLE IT!

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by blubuckaroo

Not,
The loaded rating of this trailer are well within the load rating of the late generation Tacoma. You probably don't know this, but the late Tacomas are about the same size as a full size pickup. It's not the same little Tacoma that kids used to jack up and play with. This one takes up the same garage space as my full size Silverado, and my car cover fits both perfectly.
My only reason for switching was the Silverado had a little more weight, and a deeper bed.
If you doubt what I'm saying about the vehicle size, GOOGLE IT!

I'm not going to look up the specs of a Tacoma because I kind of know them generally...owned one (2002?), bought dad one (2005) and DB ones a new one. The new ones are "bigger" and better than the old ones but a Silverado? With the tow package and V8 etc.? Please post those numbers...YOU may want to "google it". A car cover does not a tow vehicle make.

[PDMarlowe]

I tow our 6,400 lb (so called dry weight) Outback with a 2004 Chevy Suburban with the 5.3l Vortec V8 with the trailering package that is rated at 9,200 lb and it tows beautifully. I do make sure I maintain the tires, brakes and fluids per the owner's manuals and we do most of our camping in Michigan with the average elevation change of 150 ft, but even with Fenway (yes, we named it, it is a green monster) having 170,000 miles on it I wouldn't hesitate to tow the trailer to Florida and back. Your lighter trailer should be no problem for a newer Silverado 1500.

[travelin texans]

Wow!
This has gotten deep into the weeds, or smoking them, comparing a Tacoma to a 1500 Silverado, that's like comparing apples to basketballs.
It's actually pretty simple, if you want to tow an American built RV buy an American truck to do it with, so far the Japanese ain't got no stinking tow trucks.

[Todd727]

The stickers and internet numbers are a just a starting point.

The only way to know is to go weigh your truck, full of fuel and loaded how you plan to travel (wife, kids, pets, generator, full fuel, etc.).

Once you know the weight, you can figure the margins you have and what the limits are going to be on a trailer.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by blubuckaroo

Not,
The loaded rating of this trailer are well within the load rating of the late generation Tacoma. You probably don't know this, but the late Tacomas are about the same size as a full size pickup. It's not the same little Tacoma that kids used to jack up and play with. This one takes up the same garage space as my full size Silverado, and my car cover fits both perfectly.
My only reason for switching was the Silverado had a little more weight, and a deeper bed.
If you doubt what I'm saying about the vehicle size, GOOGLE IT!

What is your load carrying capacity from the sticker on the door jamb?

[NH_Bulldog]

Tacoma? Seriously? Are you sure you didn’t mean Tundra, because that’s the only thing close to a true full size truck. I have no loyalty to any specific brand/model and have owned Toyota, Chevy, Dodge/Ram and now Ford. For me it comes down to capability, features, price and looks, probably all in that order. Toyota makes a fine vehicle, but just not for this application. As for the size of the Tacoma, it is and always has been a small to mid-sized truck, and can best be compared to a Ranger on the Ford side, Colorado/Canyon on the GM side and Dakota on the Ram side. Granted, size and capacity have increased over the years, but they still cannot be compared to a true full size truck by one of the big 3.

[flybouy]

I just love the "brand warg" arguments, false narratives, and blind loyalties. Over the years I've heard people proclaim that they were mechanics because "they replaced a water pump on mom's 1976 Buick", that they were electricians because "they replaced a light switch", and the ones that proclaimed that they were contractors because "they helped someone build a deck".

Now I can add the Towing experts" to that list because they towed a camper x miles successfully. Never mind they going down the road "ducking and weaving" like a prizefighter in the ring with Mike Tyson.

[Rayray04]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Payload is easy to calculate. Subtract the actual curb weight of the truck from the truck's GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating. Payload is typically the limiting factor as that number is typically exceeded long before the towing capacity or axle ratings.
Payload capacity of the truck in relation to the trailer is not only the weight of the truck but also everything that you put in the truck that wasn't from the factory therefore; add up the weight of the passengers, pets, drinks, food, tools, car seats, toys, stuff in the center console, the hitch, firewood, etc, etc. Subtract your truck's empty weight and the weight of all that "cargo" from the GVWR and what's left is the "available" tongue weight for the hitch.

To find the hitch weight by guessing take the gross trailer weight and the tongue should weigh 10-15% of that. That's a"rough" estimate and the low to high number will depend on how you load the trailer, where the liquid tanks are located, etc.

Is that the same calculation for a 5th wheel hitch ?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Rayray04

Is that the same calculation for a 5th wheel hitch ?

Typical fifth wheel pin weight is ~20% of Gross trailer weight.

[crk112]

All the good stuff has already been said here but just wanted to throw in my personal experience (from a half-ton owner).



2013 Ford F150 XLT.. crew cab.. it's the biggun so already low payload. Yellow sticker payload for me is 1448lbs, and axle gross weights are 3900lbs for the front and 3850lbs for the rear.


Loaded to go the combo weighs in at 3650lbs on the rear axle and 3200lbs on the front... only 200lbs short of the rear axle gross weight.


I've calculated the tongue weight in that config to about 650lbs... which, when looking at payload capacity, you might think you have another 798lbs to go.


Your mileage may vary... but my point here is that on my half-ton, I exceed the rear axle gross weight before I exceed the payload capacity.



Unfortunately due to this, the wife, kids, and dogs drive separately when I'm pulling the TT. An upgrade to 3/4-ton or 1-ton is in the works.