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Old 04-30-2020, 11:46 AM   #21
JRTJH
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Originally Posted by Pjw73nh View Post
Thanks. My outer surface is white. I don't know where I can see the underside of the white. Any suggestions where to look? I also know when I wash it, I get a fair amount of "whitish" color in the water that rinses off. Oxidation maybe?
Go to your bathroom roof vent, pull the 4 screws holding the plastic garnish ring and you'll see the roof membrane cut diagonally (so they could install the vent). It will be stapled to the vent framing. Pull one of the flaps and look at the back. If the flap is white on top/black on bottom, it's EPDM. If it's white all the way through or if it's white with a "flannel/fuzzy backing" it's TPO....

While you're at it, if you're curious about what the roof decking is, you can also see the thickness/material used for the roof decking by pulling that flap "all the way up. The "top layer" that you'll see is the "roof decking".. Typically, it'll be either 1/4" or 3/8" OSB. If it's 3/8", it's considered "walkable" if it's 1/4", it's considered "not walkable" although many people still walk on them "carefully" or when using blocks of Styrofoam or sheets of plywood with carpet to prevent cutting the TPO membrane. The plywood/Styrofoam will spread your body weight over a larger area to prevent "crashing through" ..

I'd suggest, if you go far enough to check the decking thickness, also use a good flashlight and do some "peeking and snooping" in any holes you might see. That will give you some "generalized ideas" on things like insulation thickness, type of air conditioning ductwork, where electrical runs are located, type of roof rafters, and loads of other "frightful things"....
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Old 04-30-2020, 05:07 PM   #22
Pjw73nh
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Logan,

I just heard back from Dyco. It seems the datasheet on the site is old (I let them know).

This is what I got back from my email:

I sent him back pics of the actual tube. He said the lot number is on the box that the tubes came in (I don't have it). But he said he is 99% sure I'm good.

I must be, as I haven't seen or experienced anything adverse in several years.

I feel better.
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Old 04-30-2020, 05:14 PM   #23
Logan X
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Originally Posted by Pjw73nh View Post
Logan,

I just heard back from Dyco. It seems the datasheet on the site is old (I let them know).

This is what I got back from my email:

I sent him back pics of the actual tube. He said the lot number is on the box that the tubes came in (I don't have it). But he said he is 99% sure I'm good.

I must be, as I haven't seen or experienced anything adverse in several years.

I feel better.
That’s good news!
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Old 05-08-2020, 10:30 AM   #24
sonofcy
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Originally Posted by Pjw73nh View Post
Started my annual maintenance on my 2011 19' FBPR Keystone Bullet Premiere TT. While up on the roof sealing some questionable areas with self-leveling caulk, I found an 18" or so spot on the drivers side, above the slide where the underlayment material (or perhaps some kind of flashing) that wraps over the edge to the roof has "lifted". As it rounds over the edge of the side to the top, it has pulled the roofing material away from the underlayment. If I press down (as seen in the video) there appears to be solid material underneath the lifted area.

Pic and vid here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/65DtUXJQtpdcQQLw7


What is the best way to repair this? I was thinking perhaps a row of 4-6 short, stainless screws with either rubber washers, or stainless fender washers (or maybe both) then either topped with self leveling caulk, or perhaps a 4" x 24" strip of Eternabond roof repair material over the row of screws.

Being a Keystone forum, I was hoping someone here would know for certain what is under this roof area. I don't want to put holes in the material without KNOWING I'll anchor it to something solid.


Any thoughts, much appreciated. Thanks.
If it was mine I would cut an opening flap (open end down wind) big enough to expose everything underneath that is affected. I would be surprised if you don't have water penetrating somewhere and that has caused the roof to delaminate. Once you find and fix the leak, then I would use epoxy to reseal the laminations then eternabond the flap.
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