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04-30-2015, 06:04 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 3
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Leveling your trailer
I was wondering how you all tell when your trailer is level. We can put a level on several different places in and around the trailer (on tongue, on frame, on bumper, inside front storage compartment, inside trailer near door) and get so many different readings. I put the level on the floor inside the trailer in 3 different spots with different results each time. Camping this week I think we are pretty dead on level but still get different readings. Just curious what your thoughts are on this subject.
__________________
2010 Toyota Tundra
2014 Keystone Premier 19fbpr
My goal in life is to be the person my dog thinks I am.
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04-30-2015, 06:15 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,356
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A level refrigerator is the most important. You can get small bubble levels that you can attach to the corners of the trailer to check side to side and front to back quickly.
I would suggest setting a circle level in the freezer, and then using a floor jack on the low side frame, jack it up at the axles until level. At that point attach the side to side level on the front or rear corner of the trailer.
Then using the tongue jack, get the bubble dead center again and then attach the front to rear level on the front or rear side edge.
When I bought my fiver I used a 6' level on the floor in the kitchen to get perfectly level, checked my refer and found it close enough and then attached my levels. Since I have a fifth wheel, I was able to attach the level to the pin box. Been good for three years now.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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04-30-2015, 06:19 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 29
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I use a quality 3-4 foot level. Start by leveling side to side using blocks. I use the frame across the tongue for this. Then measure a couple spots along the side frame to level front to back. Once all is level, I use the cheaper stick on levels made for campers and carefully place one on the front of the camper, and one on the front side of the camper. This makes future leveling much easier! Good luck!
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2002 GMC Sierra 1500HD 6LV8
Current TT: 2014 32BHPR Premier
2003-2014: 2004 298BHL Springdale
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04-30-2015, 06:23 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 296
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I too have found discrepancies in level between various flat surfaces in all the trailers I've had. They have always been fairly subtle, so I have come to use a carpenters level on the biggest part of the kitchen counter and once its level I set my outside bubbles accordingly.
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2011 F-350 C.C. 4X4 LWB 6.7PSD
2010 Montana Mountaineer 345DBQ
2005 F150 FX4
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04-30-2015, 06:58 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta
Posts: 8
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I agree. Fridge must be close to level. I use a 4 foot level to level trailer best I can.
I have a different way to do things before I install my stick ons however. In all my RV's I have done things different on each one. I get them as level as I can and spend a few days in them. Each one had different issues. Mostly it is the shower that doesn't drain out properly or water sits in the rails. I spend a few days changing things a little at a time until I get it all working properly. I think this is more important than where the bubble sits. Then I stick on the little levels at "level" even if its off a bit so my wife can set up and any "helpful" neighbors don't argue with her about being off level when she has to set up without me.
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Jason
Racking up the miles with:
2019 GMC Sierra 3500HD Duramax Diesel
2020 Montana 3120 RL
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04-30-2015, 06:59 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 3,153
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Generally eye ball it side to side and when close I use a 2 foot level inside the door to set close. Then eyeball front to back and when I think I am there check level inside the door. Close is good, the fridge will work, no issues. Generally when I then open the slides, it brings it slightly out of level.
__________________
2013 Premier 31BHPR
2014 F350 6.2L
Soon to be just DW and I
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04-30-2015, 07:08 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Colorful Colorado
Posts: 798
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I put a 6" level on the battery tray to get it level side to side. Then I put it in the front storage area and leave it slightly high on the tongue end. Done and dusted.
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Current:
'17 Winnebago Vista 31BE / Wife, pesky Eski and loco Toto dog
Former:
'15 Open Range 256BHS / '05 F350 CCLB RWD V10
'14 Keystone Passport 238ML / '13 GC Trailhawk Hemi
RIP Birch (pitbull)
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04-30-2015, 07:33 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Green Valley, AZ
Posts: 782
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I also mess around with a bunch of different points in leveling until I get it to just sort of feel right. In our recent trailer I just used a level on the tongue - both across it and forward and aft and found it as close as any messing around inside. So I stuck my bubbles on on that basis. I mainly don't like doors swinging open or shut whether on the cabinets, bedroom, bathroom, etc. If they stay where they are opened to, I figure it's level.
__________________
Earl
2007 33.5' Arctic Fox Fifth Wheel used for full-timing for several years--now sold
2011 Hideout 23RKSWE that we now use for poking around local parks
2007 Chevy 3/4 ton diesel with Prodigy Brake Control
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04-30-2015, 09:56 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Beaverton
Posts: 309
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I think it was a Trailer Life video, the man talking said the one thing you want level is the refrigerator, he said to use a round bubble level and put it on the floor of the freezer section and if the bubble stayed at least half in the bulls eye then you were OK. This gentleman owns an RV repair business and does a lot of RV help videos. What ever you wish to add to perfect the level at this point is up to the owner.
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2012 Cougar TT, 24RKSWE, 27'
2012 Tundra 4.6V8, 2wd, dbl cab
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05-01-2015, 06:11 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Saint Charles, Misssoui
Posts: 163
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I to used to worry my self to death about how level we were..On 3 of my campers. Had the little bubble levels attached plus used a 2 ft level across the tongue and rear bumper. plus in side to get it lever front to back.. then we camped next to, and watched a older couple back in and set up. Watched what he did.. he pulled a small level out and set inside his front door and that was it..When I talked to him later he told me that they used to worry all about being level also..but over the years the campers got better and he found a better way.. Now I use his way and am so much more at ease. I just back in open the door, set a 10" level on the floor for side to side.pull or back on to my blocks to level. unhook, look down the side at the window frames and eyeball to check level for front to back.. Then I check the level inside by the door. make sure it is as level as can get and done. Stabs down slides out.. the refer works just fine and if the water won't quite drain at the campground it will on the drive home.. no worries...
__________________
Craig
Kathie
2013 Keystone Cougar
X-Lite 31 RKS
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05-01-2015, 06:19 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Natick, MA
Posts: 31
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I put a bubble level in the refrigerator and leveled the trailer until the bubble was centered. Then I fastened a plastic 4" level to the a frame near the jack. That gives me front to back level. I fastened a plastic 4" level to the body in the front. That gives me side to side level.
Now I can look at the front of the trailer and level it and I know the refrigerator is level.
-mike
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Rose & Mike
2012 Tundra DC 5.7L 4x4 - 2013 Keystone Premier 19FBPR
Chet (the Setter) & Ruby the Red (Labradoodle)
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05-01-2015, 06:56 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 51
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My $.02
I am thinking of putting on a bubble level on front to be able to see as I back in to a site, trying to find something close to level. Then, as I already do now, I use a 2' level on the floor inside the front transverse compartment to level from to back once I have unhooked from the TV.
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05-01-2015, 05:09 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFDfireman90
I am thinking of putting on a bubble level on front to be able to see as I back in to a site, trying to find something close to level. Then, as I already do now, I use a 2' level on the floor inside the front transverse compartment to level from to back once I have unhooked from the TV.
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I've had a large front level on my last two trailers and its very useful. The closer to level (side to side) you can get before deploying the jacks/stabilizers the better. Doors don't bind etc. I carry a few strips of 1/2" ply to back the low tires onto so I gan get it pretty close. If its way off I start with 2x6's.
__________________
2011 F-350 C.C. 4X4 LWB 6.7PSD
2010 Montana Mountaineer 345DBQ
2005 F150 FX4
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05-01-2015, 08:42 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
A level refrigerator is the most important. You can get small bubble levels that you can attach to the corners of the trailer to check side to side and front to back quickly.
I would suggest setting a circle level in the freezer, and then using a floor jack on the low side frame, jack it up at the axles until level. At that point attach the side to side level on the front or rear corner of the trailer.
Then using the tongue jack, get the bubble dead center again and then attach the front to rear level on the front or rear side edge.
When I bought my fiver I used a 6' level on the floor in the kitchen to get perfectly level, checked my refer and found it close enough and then attached my levels. Since I have a fifth wheel, I was able to attach the level to the pin box. Been good for three years now.
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That's exactly what we did. Use a level to set the trailer level then attach the corner levels near the landing gear switch for checking each plane. No more running back and forth to the entryway to check the level on the floor.
On a popup camper, I used a single, round bubble level in the outside fridge compartment. Worked great.
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Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
-Ram 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Cummins HO/exhaust brake, 6-speed stick.
-Andersen Ultimate 24K 5er Hitch.
-2014 Cougar 326SRX, Maxxis tires w/TPMS, wet bolts, two 6v batts.
-Four Wheel 8' Popup Camper.
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05-01-2015, 09:19 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Virginia Beach, Va
Posts: 161
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I quit worrying about being perfect, heck most the levels people buy at the local HW store are only good for government work anyway . . . I make sure the tongue is slightly high, and using a water bottle I compare the water line to the jug indentations. Works fine for me and the AC water runs off the back drain out of the way
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Michael H
2000 Excursion 4x4 Superduty
2011 Eco Screw 4x4 F150
2013 Premier 19RBPR
2016 Cougar 26RBI
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05-02-2015, 03:57 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 6,334
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Keep in mind to worry about side to side being level first. End to end level second. I would have to differ with a couple of the posters above about having the trailer tilt to the rear. They were designed to sit level and I don't want my doors swinging open or closed. Just my two cents....
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Jim in Memphis, Wife of 51 years is Brenda
2019 F450 6.7 Powerstroke
2018 Mobile Suites 40RSSA
2021 40' Jayco Eagle
2001 Road king w/matching Harley sidecar
2021 Yamaha X2 Wolverine 1000
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05-02-2015, 10:58 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 296
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This thread has me wondering what would happen if I took a carpenters level to the various flat surfaces in my house. Probably don't wanna know..........
__________________
2011 F-350 C.C. 4X4 LWB 6.7PSD
2010 Montana Mountaineer 345DBQ
2005 F150 FX4
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05-02-2015, 01:57 PM
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#18
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PerryB
This thread has me wondering what would happen if I took a carpenters level to the various flat surfaces in my house. Probably don't wanna know..........
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Why even use a carptenter's level, just "turn loose a bag of kids marbles and you'll probably find them all in the corners, or in the center of the room. My bet is they won't be where you emptied the bag.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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05-02-2015, 02:10 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
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Two old school guys built my house in 1975 (I bought it in 1998). The old boy rancher I bought it from said the brothers built everything onsite, including the trusses and the cabinets. They did everything except for carpet and wallpaper...and we got rid of the wallpaper during the remodel . During that remodel, we had a number of "contractors" remark how square and plumb the house is. Its old-ish, but its a good house. With the exception of two contractors who worked on the remodel, the rest were never up to the standards of the two brothers who built our house.
The older I get, the more I understand what my dad was was trying to emphasize to me. If he were still with us, I'd tell him, "I get it, Dad!"
__________________
Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
-Ram 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Cummins HO/exhaust brake, 6-speed stick.
-Andersen Ultimate 24K 5er Hitch.
-2014 Cougar 326SRX, Maxxis tires w/TPMS, wet bolts, two 6v batts.
-Four Wheel 8' Popup Camper.
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05-02-2015, 11:01 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
Why even use a carptenter's level, just "turn loose a bag of kids marbles and you'll probably find them all in the corners, or in the center of the room. My bet is they won't be where you emptied the bag.
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Sorry, that won't work. I lost my marbles a long time ago!
__________________
2011 F-350 C.C. 4X4 LWB 6.7PSD
2010 Montana Mountaineer 345DBQ
2005 F150 FX4
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