The top one is the old one and the bottom one is the new one. Maybe I'm thinking the deposits are what's left of the sacrificial metal.
The top one is the old one, the white "splotches" appear to be harmless magnesium sulfide scale that has formed on the surface of the sacrificial anode. The actual magnesium portion of the anode rod is almost intact. You can see that it's almost the same size and shape as the new one that's still in the package. About the only thing I see "wrong" (if one could call it that) is that there's no Teflon tape on the threads. Otherwise, the "old" one appears to be "nearly new" with very little, if any loss of the sacrificial anode.
I am attachings a picture of a new magnesium rod and one that has been "consumed", notice that the magnesium actually erodes away and disperses into the water. The "old one" in my attachment is "BAD" and should be replaced. I'd guess that it is about 80% gone. Suburban recommends replacement at about 75% erosion. The magnesium has been dissolved into the hot water in the tank. That may be a consideration for a filter on the drinking water tap, if one wants "magnesium free" water. Also notice that there is a "noble metal" center rod that the magnesium is molded around. That center rod doesn't dissolve with the anode, and will support the remaining rod even if it dissolves near the threaded plug end first. There's no danger of the rod "breaking off" and falling into the HWH tank as long as that "noble metal" rod stays intact. As you can see in this picture of the old one, there is a "lot left" on the one that chris199 replaced.
At $15, some may consider simply replacing it annually, certainly an individual choice, but I well remember a "lively discussion" about whether to use RV antifreeze at $1.99 a gallon or "save money" by using windshield washer fluid at $1.29 a gallon ($1.40 savings) so there are some members who are "thrifty". My intent was to assure them (and others who aren't up to speed on anodes) that the one that was shown as "old" isn't really defective and is serviceable for continued use. Actually, it looks to be in darn good shape after a season of being used.
My only purpose in asking what you may have seen that I didn't was to make sure I didn't miss something and to illustrate the serviceability of the "old anode" for those who might not want to invest in a new anode rod yearly. By replacing the Teflon tape and reinstalling the original rod, there's at least another season, possibly more remaining on that anode rod. Surely a personal choice, no criticism intended from me if one wants to go either way.
Agreed. Don't know what I was thinking in my first post. Guess I was in a hurry.
I reused my anode for another season when I did a winterization last month. We have a Christmas snowbird trip coming up that will last a month or so. Will probably have to winterize it again when we get back. Might shop around ahead of time to have a new anode on hand even though the current one should still be OK.
I keep a spare in my "spare parts/tool box/diddy bag" just for that reason. Another thing to keep in mind is that RV antifreeze (the pink stuff) is corrosive to the anode rod and if you run any antifreeze in your HWH with the anode installed, it will cause a gooey, sloppy mess to clean up when you pull the anode out and realize, "OH NO!!!!!"
I always leave the anode laying inside the HWH door, not installed during storage. I suppose either way is OK, but that way it's not sitting in the port with the threads corroding (even with Teflon tape) and hopefully will be easier to remove after a few months rather than after the storage and camping season.
Definitely have to agree with JRTJH, and that anode doesn't show any deterioration.
In my work as a firefighter, all of the water tanks on the Pumpers and Tankers had Anode rods - approximately 1 per 100 gallons. We replaced those rods annually, and usually most of them were down to only about 10-15% of sacrificial material, and about 70% of the rod was down to the base metal rod. Not saying you should wait until the rods are that consumed, but that rod definitely doesn't show any deterioration.
Examples of deterioration included.
Some people are worried about using silicon tape, since the cathodic reaction requires a connection with the metal tank, but this hasn't been found to be a problem as usually there is enough contact to effect the action. One problem that could affect a tank and it's anode, and again, not saying that is the situation affecting this anode, is call "Passivation". Essentially, the anode stops working - and nobody quite understands why. The suggestion is to replace the anode - which was done, and see if it happens again.
Thank you John, and everyone else for the comments and opinions. I'm aware of the anode rod, it's function and location, removal etc. I've replace mine once, having owned this 5th wheel for almost 3 years now.
I just was not aware that they were available in mag or aluminum. Just trying to make a decision on which one came with unit and which one to go with when replacing it.
My old rod looked like the one in the pic John posted. Is that magnesium?
Here is an interesting question for you. On my passport, the hot water tank did not come with an anode rod of any sort. At least not that I am aware. The part that I pulled to drain the tank this year was just a white plastic screw in plug, much like the one I use to plug the line on my sprinkler system at the house.
Should I be concerned? Should I use an anode rod next year? Should the dealer do something?
__________________
2022 Ford F150 3.5 Ecoboost SCrew 4x4 MaxTow
2020 Salem Hemisphere Hyper-Lyte 25RBHL
Here is an interesting question for you. On my passport, the hot water tank did not come with an anode rod of any sort. At least not that I am aware. The part that I pulled to drain the tank this year was just a white plastic screw in plug, much like the one I use to plug the line on my sprinkler system at the house.
Should I be concerned? Should I use an anode rod next year? Should the dealer do something?
Atwood water heater doesn't use an anode.. the tank is aluminum
Your tank may be an Atwood which has an aluminum lined tank and does not need an anode whereas the Suburban has a steel-glass lined tank that does require an anode. The plastic/nylon plug serves just one purpose - a means of draining the tank - so you are good.
Double check to make sure your HW tank is not a Suburban --- if it is, you need an anode.
I keep a spare in my "spare parts/tool box/diddy bag" just for that reason. Another thing to keep in mind is that RV antifreeze (the pink stuff) is corrosive to the anode rod and if you run any antifreeze in your HWH with the anode installed, it will cause a gooey, sloppy mess to clean up when you pull the anode out and realize, "OH NO!!!!!"
I always leave the anode laying inside the HWH door, not installed during storage. I suppose either way is OK, but that way it's not sitting in the port with the threads corroding (even with Teflon tape) and hopefully will be easier to remove after a few months rather than after the storage and camping season.
Yep, no antifreeze in the tank. Drained dry.
FWIW, I found a Suburban anode online at Walmart for just under $12. Mine is 50-60% remaining.
Good stuff on this forum. Wish I had this knowledge when I had the motorhomes in the past. I didn't know what I didn't know, which is probably still the case...
Steve - Isn't there somewhere close to where you live on the Island that you can pick up a HW anode for far, far less than $40-$50???? What about the RV supply places near Nanaimo? I can get them here in the Valley for $15-$20.
Festus2 I don't live on the island, I live close to Campbell Valley in Langley, 20 mins from Abby. I have a cabin on the Gulf Islands though and UPS billed to there and sent it here. I didn't see the point in fighting over a few dollars and their mistake and that's where the shipping costs were.
This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.
Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
Linear Mode
