Just finished installing a Cummins-Onan Microquiet 3600LP into my trailer

The4quads · 09-30-2013, 05:34 PM

I'm a new member here because I bought a barn kept 2004 Z241 Zeppelin. I read plenty of articles about the problems with the older model but so far I'm Ok with this one.
I had a Lance slide-in that I was happy with but the DW has a problem with her knee and it was becoming difficult for her to climb up into the camper.
A day after I sold the Lance I started looking for a clean travel trailer. I called three of the big sellers of new and used RV's in PA and found out that no one offers a built-in generator. The salesmen said that only truck campers, toy-haulers and some of the larger fifth-wheeler are offered with a factory generator.
We go out to remote riding areas with the ATV's and became spoiled with having a generator that you just push a button and cool off in the AC after a hot dusty day of riding. Same holds true on the cold wet days about brewing some coffee. (I used to run the AC and the heat to dry out the interior).
Anyway, I found this Zeppelin locally and noticed the very large front storage compartment. After measuring the opening I decided that the microquiet 3600LP will fit easily.
I built a vapor tight, thermally and acoustically insulated box for the generator out of angle iron and galvanized sheet medal. The hot air and the exhaust pipe exit underneath the unit and the air inlet is pulled in thru the front of it. The box is sealed against the compartment door and I install a grille and frame assembly for a RV refrigerator into the door. I hooked in to the propane line by installing a tee and a 60" line. The starter cables are 6 ga. and the 110v output is 10 ga. I install the remote start panel along with a digital 12 volt, 110 volt, and AC amp meter into a hollow wall near the entrance door and the automatic transfer switch next to the inverter.
The generator cost me $1400 with 6.8 hours on it. It came out of a totaled toy-hauler. The other stuff used to complete the install ran around $475-500 including the exhaust going back to the rear of the camper.
If anyone could use a little help installing a built in generator, I might be able to help.

sjturbo · 09-30-2013, 08:12 PM

Wow, nice setup! My eyes must be bad because the box looks to small for the genny. Do you have any additional of the box and the install!

The4quads · 10-01-2013, 04:07 AM

I'll post some more pictures tonight. The box was built with enough clearance to add 1.5" thick semi-ridge fiberglass panels inside. I put dyna-mat sound dampener sheets on the outside. The generator is set back about 8" from the front of the box and door opening. That area is lined with 3/4" thick sound damping foam rubber including the back side of the door. The main noise source is the ventilating blower that is inside the generator itself. The second is the hot air exhaust underneath. I'm working on a deflector to direct the airflow horizontally so that the sound won't bounce off the ground. The exhaust system runs along the frame rails out the back and is rubber mounted. There is a slight vibration of the floor just above the generator but only I noticed it among my friends.

**JRTJH** · 10-01-2013, 06:41 AM

Carl,

Out of curiosity, how long can you run your generator using the onboard 60 lbs of propane? I'm curious how much "dry camping" in cold weather can be done given the increased use of propane with the furnace AND a generator.

The4quads · 10-01-2013, 08:54 AM

John.
I had a truck camper before this trailer so I have limited experience about the use of propane on such a larger unit. The generator uses 0.68 gal/hour at full load. If I have the generator at full load (62,000 BTU) and the furnace on full blast (30,000 BTU) that is one Gal/hour, not very good. If the genny is running a light load it's around 0.4 Gal/hr. I hope that by using a electric heater and a few amps for lights (LED's) and the inverter, I'll keep my usage to just over 1/2 Gal/hr. Two 30 lbs. tanks would give me 20-24 hours continues running time. I have not run the genny for more than 5 hours a day in my truck camper, so maybe close to the same in the trailer.
I did insulate and caulk the storage compartment under the bed area and that made a huge difference. the hot air would blow into the bed area if I opened the storage door (summer time). I presume the cold air would also in the cold weather.

**JRTJH** · 10-01-2013, 10:02 AM

Thanks for the info. Had you considered using a gas generator? If so, what tilted your decision to propane power?

It sounds like the propane supply is a pretty significant limiting factor. My reason for asking is that in my experience, it's easier to find a remote source for gasoline to run a generator. It has been very difficult to find a place to refill propane tanks outside of large or medium size towns around northern Michigan. The average "corner convenience store" almost always sells gas but seldom sells propane. In many places, that corner store is the only retail business for miles and miles.

Maybe that's why bigger motorhomes use gas or diesel generators rather than propane generators to power the rig????

With such large propane useage, it would seem that staying "powered up" would be difficult in the winter when using the furnace and even more difficult in the summer when using the A/C for even longer periods of time.

The4quads · 10-01-2013, 03:42 PM

I picked a propane genny mostly for convenience. Although I usually have gasoline with us for the quads, the fuel tank for the generator would be another problem to solve along with extra weight.
Most of our off-roading trips are for three day-two night weekends and running off the propane would not be a problem. If I thought running low on propane would have been a problem, I would use the smaller BBQ cylinders so that I could exchange them easily.
I agree that gas or diesel is a better fuel for long term off grid camping. As you said it is easier to get refilled.
I my case the propane genny fit the bill. For a case like yours where your "out there" for extended time, a gasoline one would make better sense.

audio1der · 10-02-2013, 10:46 AM

Nice gear and well-thought out setup for your application!
I would love to see more Cummins-Onan setups.

The4quads · 10-02-2013, 01:57 PM

I'll post a few more pictures incase it helps anybody else who's giving it a thought. By the way, the exhaust is run thru 1 1/2" EMT tubing with compression connectors. The stock 90 degree elbow coming off of the genny was 1 3/8". I brazed a piece of the 1 1/2" EMT over the elbow to make it match and the rest was easy. I used galvanized I-beam hangers and neoprene lined pinch hangers to support it to the back of the frame. I cut a section of a 90 degree to form a down spout.

Little Guy · 10-02-2013, 02:23 PM

Nice job. I am dazzled by your brilliance. Thanks for sharing.

The4quads · 10-02-2013, 05:08 PM

When I cut thru the floor (if you can call it that) I made the hole the same size as a HVAC duct I found at Lowe's. It is 3 1/2" x 10" and was a touch larger than the hot air discharge opening. I caulked and screwed it in place. The oil drain plug hole got the same treatment by using a piece of 2" copper tubing. The bottom of the oil drain tube is closed by a $4 expansion plug. I wanted to make sure all of the hot air came out from where it's suppose to.

The4quads · 10-06-2013, 03:15 PM

Well I spent the day finishing up some details. The remote start panel, 12 volt, 110 volt, and 110 amp meter are installed. While testing the electrics, I walked around looking where the most sound was coming from. Most of the noise is from underneath the trailer. I figured the blacktop is bouncing the sound back up and maybe if I'm parked on dirt it won't be as noisy. Looking at the left over materials I thought about making a deflector for the air discharge. One side of the defector tucks under the frame flange and the other two sides are screwed on. It's easy to remove in case I have to service anything under there. The deflector made a noticeable difference.
The air inlet roar was now louder than the discharge. I used a piece of left over tin sheeting and sound deadening foam and make a slip-in baffle that is in front of the gennys grille. I'm trying to block any direct path of sound to the grille in the compartment door. I would say that if your twenty feet away, you would have a tough time hearing it.

The4quads · 10-07-2013, 02:32 AM

John,
If you think it might be more helpful to anybody over there, please move it.
Thanks-Carl.

Christal · 03-28-2020, 04:34 PM

We have a 2020 Montana we upgraded to from a 2016 avalanche and took our rvqg6500 onan generator out and want to install it in montana I was wondering if u could let me know what transfer switch u need to hookup our trailer isnt genprepped so all advice is welcomed.

**sourdough** · 03-28-2020, 04:48 PM

Christal, this thread is about 6 1/2 years old so doubt you will get any feedback from the OP.

**JRTJH** · 03-28-2020, 05:44 PM

This is an "ancient thread" but luckily, the OP (The4Quads) is still active and was last on the forum on Jan 9, 2020. He may respond the next time he logs onto the forum.

I'm guessing your generator is LPG powered ??? If not, trying to install a gas tank on a fifth wheel is a "burden, if even possible". It's not "hanging the tank or plumbing, it's the "potential bomb laying inches from your head while you're sleeping".... Propane, even as expensive as it is, is much easier to work with.

Hopefully the OP will respond to your questions.

Christal · 03-28-2020, 07:36 PM

It is lp...thank god. Thank u for the update.

The4quads · 04-19-2020, 08:25 AM

Christal,
I just came across this thread about the generator install I did 6 years ago. I visit this site because several friends have TT's . I currently have a Class A so most of the threads on this site won't relate to my unit. If there's any questions you have about the install, I would like to help.

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