Water Heater Question

[dalamarjj78]

I towed my trailer for the first time in a few months and came across something I find odd that I was hoping to get some insight on.

When I winterized my trailer in mid-November I bypassed my water heater, drained it, and blew out all my water lines.

I decided not to reinstall the drain plug (it doesnt have an anode rod) in the water heater so if any remaining water froze it would have room to expand and hopefully not cause any damage.

Today I had to take the trailer to the dealership to have the propane regulator replaced and forgot to put the drain plug in before I left. Once the trailer started moving a significant amount of water started pouring out of the water heater.

On top of that, it left a milky white residue on the trailer. It could have been dust from the dirt road we live on but after opening the access panel it was chalky inside too so I'm not so sure it was from the road.

Does this sound normal? The trailer is still winterized but I just can't figure out how that much water could have been in a water heater whose drain plug has been open for four months.

But I'm a newbie so was hoping someone else may have an idea...Thanks.

[flybouy]

I don't know the method you used to blow out the waterlines but obviously all of it wasn't displaced. Maybe the trailer wasn't level when it was winterized and the motion and vibration of travel caused the water to migrate to the drain. The "white substance" is most likely minerals in the water. Do you use a water filter when using city water or filling the fresh water tank?

[dalamarjj78]

Is it possible for water to be displaced in the actual water heater itself? The water heater was still bypassed when I towed it yesterday so the water shouldn't have come from the lines. And, yes, we do use a water filter. We always use one of the blue ones from Amazon/Walmart that connects to the water hose before hooking to the city water connection. We almost never use the fresh water tank but still use the filter on the rare occasion we do put water in it.

The process I followed when blowing the lines was like this:

- bypass the water heater
- remove the drain plug and open the valve to drain
- drained the fresh water tank
- connected the compressor and pressurized the system
- open one faucet at a time until no more water came out
- worked through every faucet in the trailer including shower, toilet, outside shower, etc
- ran the water pump for 30 seconds to make sure it was free of water
- opened the low point drains while still connected to the air compressor to get all water out of the system
- blew out the black tank flush
- disconnected the air compressor
- left water heater bypassed and all sinks open

[jasin1]

When you shut the water bypass then any water left in the lines on the water heater side of the valve would be theoretically trapped in the lines and not drain down to the tank…like holding your finger over the top of a straw in a glass of soda…it only drains when you release your finger…
Also the drain in the bottom of the tank does not go completely to the bottom…likely because it’s stronger to make a anode or drain plug hole a little up from the bottom of the tank…and it allows sediment to settle without clogging the drain immediately

When you moved the trailer the water in the lines released from jostling and the water in the bottom also splashed out


Although …when you remove the drain plug I wonder if the siphoning action would pull the water from the lines as well? …hmmm

[dalamarjj78]

Ok, thanks. If that's the case I hope i didn't end up with any damaged lines because we've had a colder than usual winter here in NC.

What's the best way to make sure the water in the line is cleared? To "unbypass" the water heater after all the lines have been blown out? I assume leaving the empty water heater "unbypassed" during the winter months wouldn't cause any issues, right? My understanding is that bypassing it is mainly done to keep antifreeze out of it for those that use that winterization method.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by dalamarjj78

Ok, thanks. If that's the case I hope i didn't end up with any damaged lines because we've had a colder than usual winter here in NC.

What's the best way to make sure the water in the line is cleared? To "unbypass" the water heater after all the lines have been blown out? I assume leaving the empty water heater "unbypassed" during the winter months wouldn't cause any issues, right? My understanding is that bypassing it is mainly done to keep antifreeze out of it for those that use that winterization method.

John or chuck may have that answer. But I think as long as the drain is open then any water wouldn’t cause any damage It’s a fairly small amount and any ice I. The lines would likely expand to the empty tank. If a hose is left on the ground and freezes with some water inside …it’s usually fine unless you step on it or try and move it causing it to crack

[j.w.]

Originally Posted by dalamarjj78

On top of that, it left a milky white residue on the trailer. It could have been dust from the dirt road we live on but after opening the access panel it was chalky inside too so I'm not so sure it was from the road.

The white milky substance is minerals from the water PLUS the anode is a sacrificial anode meaning it is continuously dissolving to protect the metal of the camper from stray voltage that could weaken and/or destroy the metal. I learned an important lesson about these anodes on a sailboat that I once owned. These dissolving anodes will leave a milky residue behind. The drain plug is a good 1/2" to 3/4" above the bottom of the water heater leaving residue in the water heater when drained. The water heater should be flushed to remove all of this residue when winterizing.

[chuckster57]

Even if you take the drain out and disconnect the lines from the back of the tank, there is some residual water left. Bypass is to keep antifreeze out of the tank.

That’s the short and sweet answer.

[GHen]

I also agree with above, it’s just the water from the water heater and it’s mineral deposits.

When I blow the lines out, I include the water heater and get a fair amount out of that part of the system.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by jasin1

When you shut the water bypass then any water left in the lines on the water heater side of the valve would be theoretically trapped in the lines and not drain down to the tank…like holding your finger over the top of a straw in a glass of soda…it only drains when you release your finger…
Also the drain in the bottom of the tank does not go completely to the bottom…likely because it’s stronger to make a anode or drain plug hole a little up from the bottom of the tank…and it allows sediment to settle without clogging the drain immediately

When you moved the trailer the water in the lines released from jostling and the water in the bottom also splashed out


Although …when you remove the drain plug I wonder if the siphoning action would pull the water from the lines as well? …hmmm

When I worked for the local utility years ago we used to do water heater repairs this way…if it had a bad gas valve or lower element. We would
“Jump the gas valve” ( what we called it)
We would run the hot water upstairs for a min ..shut off the incoming water valve to the water heater …and shut all the faucets off upstairs and down.

You could then swap out an element or gas control and not have to drain the tank…saved your having to use an electric pump to somewhat quickly drain it or use a hose to a sump if you didn’t have a pump.
The water would be held into the tank for the most part and only let a little bit glug out…you had to be quick and only had one chance but could save you an hour when you have 10-12 calls to do that day.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by j.w.

The white milky substance is minerals from the water PLUS the anode is a sacrificial anode meaning it is continuously dissolving to protect the metal of the camper from stray voltage that could weaken and/or destroy the metal. I learned an important lesson about these anodes on a sailboat that I once owned. These dissolving anodes will leave a milky residue behind. The drain plug is a good 1/2" to 3/4" above the bottom of the water heater leaving residue in the water heater when drained. The water heater should be flushed to remove all of this residue when winterizing.

Read his first post, no anode.

To the OP ... as has been stated the tank will have water remaining in it. How much depends on how level the trailer is i.e. if the trailer is high on the drain side it will hold more water. As for a filter if you are using the "torpedo" shaped in- line water filters they just arenvery efficiant. A canister filter (typically 10") are by far better and with a replaceable cartridge you can choose a cartridge that is better suited for the condition of the water.

When I drain my water lines I first open all faucets (including outside and toilet by weighing down the foot pedal ) bypass the WH, then open the low point drains. After the lines drain down I'll manually open the WH pressure relif valve and pull the anode. The rush of water comming out of the WH typically carrise the majority of the sediment with it. This will drain the maximum amount of water.

What type compressor did you use to blow out the water lines? To be effective requires a higher cfm rating than say a typical compressor for airing up tires. I connect the airline with a regulator to the city water inlet and set it to 35 to 40 psi. With the water system all closed up (WH in bypass) I "charge" the system with compressed air. Then I open each faucet starting with the one closest to the source. Leave it open until only air is comming out. Then repeate this process until I get to the end of the line.

I follow that with RV antifreeze using the same method of opening/ closing faucets from nearest to furthest. The reason for using the antifreeze is first it winterizes the FW pump. Secondly it winterizes any fitting or drop/bend in a water line that otherwise may hold water. It may be overkill but for the minimal cost and time I feel it's worth it. Everyone has their own methods but this is what I've been doing for years and have never had an issue.

The little bit of water that may remain in any tank will not cause damage. As long as there is space for the water to expand in the tank it's ok.

[dalamarjj78]

Thanks everyone! It sounds like what I experienced is pretty "normal" and that my water heater just needs a good flush.

This is the compressor I use when winterizing (I bought it specifically for this task) but keep it set around 25 - 30 psi as my owners manual said not to exceed 30 psi.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only antifreeze I use is what I put in the toilet and P traps. Mainly because our unit didn't include the winterization kit with the hose to pull the antifreeze directly into the water pump (and I've been too lazy to install one). And with us living in NC and not up north I figured it's overkill anyway.

[j.w.]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Read his first post, no anode.

You're right. I read that it did have an anode, just misread it is all.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by j.w.

You're right. I read that it did have an anode, just misread it is all.

from his first post ..."I decided not to reinstall the drain plug (it doesnt have an anode rod) in the water heater so if any remaining water froze it would have room to expand and hopefully not cause any damage.

I read that as he doesn't have an anode rod. Please enlighten me on my error.

[j.w.]

Originally Posted by flybouy

from his first post ..."I decided not to reinstall the drain plug (it doesnt have an anode rod) in the water heater so if any remaining water froze it would have room to expand and hopefully not cause any damage.

I read that as he doesn't have an anode rod. Please enlighten me on my error.

I didn't say you made an error, If you read my post you'll see that I said "you are right". I just misread it. Now we have both misread a post. Have a nice day.

[bbells]

I drain my water heater, but replace the plug before blowing out the lines, per my trailer instructions. That way water is blown out everywhere.

[Dobbs]

With my last couple trailers, both with and without anode rods I have used this to get the mineral deposits out.

Camco 11691 Water Heater Tank Rinser | Cleanses and Removes Sediment from the Bottom of RV Water Heater | Extends Life of RV Water Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IBS...1PE0CR5Z9ZTVKJ

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Dobbs

With my last couple trailers, both with and without anode rods I have used this to get the mineral deposits out.

Camco 11691 Water Heater Tank Rinser | Cleanses and Removes Sediment from the Bottom of RV Water Heater | Extends Life of RV Water Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IBS...1PE0CR5Z9ZTVKJ

I do the same thing with a "garden hose female repair end" and a piece of 3/8" vinyl tubing cut about 18" long. I use the hose to run water into the water heater to flush the sediment, then I use my wet dry vacuum with the same "contraption" to suck everything out of the water heater tank. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQS47YN...dDbGljaz10cnVl