Had to cut your coroplast?

[Archergodwin]

For those of us that have had to cut our coroplast to gain access to the bowels of our rigs... I found something that worked really well, to close those cuts back up again.

I had tried different tapes..etc... but they just would not hold through seasonal temperature swings.

Black tie wraps were the answer.

You drill a nice little set of matching holes on either side of the cut line, about 3/8 to 1/2" off to each side, take the tie wrap up one hole, over the top of the cut and out the other, and snug them up... not a whole lot, they can rip the coroplast.. but it pulls the cut piece tight and works a whole lot better than tape.

I set mine about every 4-6", and 4" long, 1/8" wide tie wraps were about perfect.

[Laredo Tugger]

That's a good idea. I have a bunch of the "little baby" tie downs in different colors that would work perfect. Also gives you access to the same points later for follow-up maintenance or repairs. I don't care if they are not black to match the coroplast. If I'm going to make a fashion statement, it's not going to be on the underside of my trailer.
RMc

[Tbos]

If you clean the coroplast SCRIM tape should stick to it without issues.

[77cruiser]

I used 3" wide gorilla tape on mine but that sounds like it might be better. Thanks

[JRTJH]

The "forum recommendation" from about 8 years ago was to cut the coroplast access hole on 3 sides, leaving the "hinge" on the forward edge of the square hole. Then, after repairs (the reason for the hole) are complete, drill holes in each of the opposing corners and use Zip Ties to secure the edges. Then use alcohol to wipe down the margins along the cuts and seal the area with Gorilla tape. This provides a waterproof as well as a mechanically secure closure....

Thanks for the "update on an old How To".....

[Bill-2020]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The "forum recommendation" from about 8 years ago was to cut the coroplast access hole on 3 sides, leaving the "hinge" on the forward edge of the square hole. Then, after repairs (the reason for the hole) are complete, drill holes in each of the opposing corners and use Zip Ties to secure the edges. Then use alcohol to wipe down the margins along the cuts and seal the area with Gorilla tape. This provides a waterproof as well as a mechanically secure closure....

Thanks for the "update on an old How To".....

The new "fuzzy" coroplast will not allow Gorilla tape to stay for long (an 8 hour trip proved it to me). I found and can recommend "Zip Tape". It's a construction use tape for sealing around window frames before the window is put in place on homes or buildings. The tape is not cheap, $30 roll, but it sticks to the new fuzzy texture of the coroplast. Follow the instructions on the tape, and make sure you roll the tape or use a good amount of pressure along the entire area, then do that again to ensure adhesion.

[NH_Bulldog]

My personal experience has been that scrim tape or gorilla tape will work on smaller openings with proper surface prep. I have a few areas that have stay in place for years. However, on larger openings, there is enough flexing and flapping of the coroplast going down the road that tape isn’t sufficient and fails pretty quickly (hours or days at most). Instead, I used an awl to poke holes and “sew” the opening shut, then covered with scrim tape. That has held up great for two years now and I was under there yesterday while adjusting the brakes and it all still looks secure.

[dutchmensport]

I had to cut a small access late last Summer when camped some 500 miles from home. I taped it when done, but the tape did not hold. Because the "flap" I made was small and around an existing hole where I replaced a section of drain pipe, I left it and wedged it back in. It's never come back down and is no problem. I like the idea of the zip tie. That would work perfect for mine. That's why I like these forums, folks are always sharing ideas that actually work, things I don't necessarily think of myself or even stumble into by accident.

Thanks for sharing. This sounds like a winner!

[SargeW]

I am going to have to cut a hole in mine as one of my valves is starting to fail and is leaking. I am trying to wait until after this trip, another month out. Since I am pulling down a portion of the coroplast, I may just drop one whole side to install a SeeLevel tank monitor system at the same time. Kill two birds with one stone.

[chuckster57]

At the shop, cutting the coroplast is a last resort option. We either remove the screws or the rivets and then after the repair either put the screws back in or install new stainless steel self tapping with washers.

[SargeW]

I am trying to determine which process would be less of a PITA. I also want to investigate the black tank flush on my rig. When used I seem to get very little flow out of the flusher, and it makes me wonder if it is mounted on the front or back of the tank. On a previous Forest River 5th wheel I owned I discovered that they had mounted the black tank flush in the front of the tank, which sprayed all of the debris backwards away from the tank dump. Not exactly a good idea IMHO. I may need to replumb another one to spray towards the tank exit.

[chuckster57]

I have found kinks more common

[SargeW]

Good tip. I will check that out as well.