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08-07-2017, 04:56 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: St johns
Posts: 5
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No power
Hi there. We own a 2015 320QBS. We've had it for almost 3 years with little issues. However last month our Ac went. We're dealing by bringing a portable unit with us until we can get someone to come in a service. The fan comes on but the actual ac doesn't come on after a short delay like it's supposed too.
Then yesterday my husband thought we tripped a breaker. Went to the outside one (fully serviced lot) and it wasn't it. We have 115 watts all thru the cords and into the panel box but then it disappears. He bought a new 40amp breaker today and went up to "fix" it and no go. Does anyone have any ideas why we have power coming out of all outlets, and the actual panel box when breakers are removed but nothing when they're put back in.
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08-07-2017, 05:39 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,341
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First off welcome to the forum
If I read your post correctly, the problem is the AC fan runs but not the compressor so your not getting cold air from the vents. There is a relay in the control box located in the AC return air duct.
If your not comfortable messing with live wire, I would leave it for the service guy. Your looking for voltage at the relay, and when the thermostat is turned to cool, your looking for voltage from the relay to the compressor.
NO Voltage at relay to compressor- relay is most likely toast and new control box is needed.
VOLTAGE at relay to compressor- most likely the compressor is kaput. RV AC's aren't considered "serviceable" and replacement is the normal "repair".
Hope this helps, but as I stated befor, if your not comfortable playing with AC voltage ( I don't like it) leave it for the service guy.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-07-2017, 05:47 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: St johns
Posts: 5
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That's great - I'll forward it to my hubby - I'm not sure he's interested in getting electrocuted but we'll see.
However the biggest problem right now is the lack of power - any ideas about that?
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08-07-2017, 06:04 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,341
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Lack of power to the trailer?
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-07-2017, 06:06 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,690
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I think I'm confused.
You have power when all the breakers are removed but not when they are in?? That would seem an impossibility. You also say you have 115 VAC thru the "cords" and into the "panel box". What kinds of cords? Are you trying to run 20A, 30A, 50A? What panel box? The one at the ped? The power panel in the RV? Is the AC power breaker in the RV thrown? You say you bought a new 40A?? breaker and "went up" to fix it. Was that outside? A little more specificity would help. I know AC can be confusing but an RV isn't like a regular house. Let us know.
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08-07-2017, 06:57 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: St johns
Posts: 5
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Ok so the ac is a completely different issue and I think that stems from a thermostat problem.
The big issue right now is our electricity into the trailer. We are on a fully serviced lot so when our power went we thought we tripped a breaker. My hubby checked and they were fine. We went outside on the pole (at the park) and that was one fine. He has a voltmeter (?) and we checked the power cord (that plugs into the "park") and then the one at the back of the trailer that runs inside and everything showed up at 115amps. So then we figured the problem had to be in the trailer. My husband took off the cover of the panel box and unscrewed the casing so that we could remove the lg breakers (?) (I'm the wife and don't really understand the language lol). Anyways when he removed the one that said 30 / 50 amp (I believe) he had power when he connected the wires to the voltmeter. He put the breaker back and nothing. He was happy with that and thought it was an easy fix. We came home last night, he purchased a new part this am and went back (up) to the trailer to fix it - only it didn't work. He has checked all outlets and they all have power when hooked up to the voltmeter. Sorry if I'm confusing - hopefully that helped.
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08-07-2017, 06:58 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: St johns
Posts: 5
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And yes - the panel box inside the trailer.
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08-07-2017, 07:01 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: St johns
Posts: 5
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This is what he bought today
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08-07-2017, 08:39 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,690
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If you have power to the panel that feeds the breaker, you put the breaker in and then you don't see AC = something (a ground) just stole your AC. You will have to isolate everything AC (all the breakers) and see what is killing it. You need to read the AC at the "panel" while using a meter to see what leg (breaker) is killing it. If the AC went belly up for some unknown reason disconnect that breaker first.
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08-07-2017, 10:23 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,909
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This discussion is really confusing, but possibly they have lost a neutral, and when they check for power across the hot legs, they get voltage, but when they put the breaker pack in, they can't see 120 volts at the sub breakers because they have no neutral connection. They may have lost the neutral at the pedestal, or the shore cord, maybe in the panel, but I'm thinking more likely outside. This is also pretty scary, someone trying to diagnose an electrical problem with little understanding or experience. Hopefully this goes well with no injuries.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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08-08-2017, 04:47 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 105
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Definitely get someone who knows EXACTLY what they are doing to look at it. Lack of knowledge KILLS when you're talking about electricity!
__________________
2017 F350 CC LB SRW 6.7
2015 Montana HC 305RL
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08-08-2017, 06:08 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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Vanessa, Before doing anything else, have hubby ask the park to check the pedestal to make sure you are getting all of the legs you need. 2 hots, 1 neutral and a ground. They may even have someone on staff who can help him troubleshoot your problem. If the problem is in their pedestal they don't want a lawsuit if you get injured because of a lack of grounding. JM2¢, Hank
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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08-09-2017, 02:13 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: "Murvil, TN
Posts: 2,212
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Let's simplify this AND not get anyone hurt in the process. Stop working on the electrical problem and hire someone that is a real electrician AND has knowledge of RV electrical systems.
__________________
2016 F350 King Ranch Crew Cab Dually Diesel 4x4
2018 Grand Design Momentum 394M
2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000GT+
Excessive payload capacity is a wonderful thing
"If it ain't Fast....It ain't Fun"
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