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Old 01-13-2015, 07:18 AM   #1
Desert185
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Underfloor Heater Ducting

During our current travels in chilly snowbird country, I've been thinking about previous posts I've read concerning low flow from the floor ducts and excessive, connecting ducting to the registers.

Our SRX seems to be generating more than adequate heat, and I was thinking that perhaps Keystone ran extra ducting on purpose to provide more heat to the belly area, i.e. more surface area for radiant heating. Having said that, I have no idea what our underfloor ducting looks like...and I probably won't unless it is absolutely necessary to breach that area.

Whadda ya think?
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:46 AM   #2
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I agree. I'm not going in there unless I have to.... then I will sort out the plumbing.
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:59 AM   #3
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IMO: extra ducting=extra $, and I haven't found an RV maker yet that isn't trying to cut costs.
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:35 AM   #4
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D-185,

I agree with you. If it ain't broke don't fix it!

I did have low flow issues with the bedroom and did drop the belly and was able to correct the issue (extra ducting doing a 360 prior to reaching duct). But if you have no issues that you know of or suspect I'd leave it alone unless of course you enjoy rolling around on your back (a lot), punching a hole in your fresh water tank (don't ask ). Although while I was there I put in some foil backed bubble type insulation. Don't know if it really did any good but I felt better for doing it .
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Old 01-13-2015, 10:30 AM   #5
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I agree with the other posts.....if it's doing the job, leave it alone. The duct that is furthest from the furnace on our trailer puts out less air than the one closest in the bathroom....which will run you out of the place. Overall it does an acceptable job throughout the trailer so I'm in no hurry to pull of the underbelly.....especially this time of year
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
IMO: extra ducting=extra $, and I haven't found an RV maker yet that isn't trying to cut costs.
That did occur to me, but why then is there extra ducting as reported by some on this forum?
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:38 PM   #7
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I don't have that answer, but I'm thinking it has something to do with making a run with the "end of the roll" and if it were cut, the left over would be too short to do anything with. Sounds like just the opposite of what I was saying before, but trash costs money to haul away and a bunch of ends adds up quick. Leftover lumber and wall paneling are made into shipping containers so that waste is kept to a minimum.
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I don't have that answer, but I'm thinking it has something to do with making a run with the "end of the roll" and if it were cut, the left over would be too short to do anything with. Sounds like just the opposite of what I was saying before, but trash costs money to haul away and a bunch of ends adds up quick. Leftover lumber and wall paneling are made into shipping containers so that waste is kept to a minimum.

They're probably pre-cut to a few different lengths and you grab the one that will reach. If the trailer is four feet shorter than the one that the tube fits perfectly, just coil up the excess. Trimming takes extra time.
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I don't have that answer, but I'm thinking it has something to do with making a run with the "end of the roll" and if it were cut, the left over would be too short to do anything with. Sounds like just the opposite of what I was saying before, but trash costs money to haul away and a bunch of ends adds up quick. Leftover lumber and wall paneling are made into shipping containers so that waste is kept to a minimum.
Not all of it.. I found enough saw dust and chunks of wood to build a couple of shipping containers in the heat run of my 333MKS..
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I don't have that answer, but I'm thinking it has something to do with making a run with the "end of the roll" and if it were cut, the left over would be too short to do anything with. Sounds like just the opposite of what I was saying before, but trash costs money to haul away and a bunch of ends adds up quick. Leftover lumber and wall paneling are made into shipping containers so that waste is kept to a minimum.
Well, if I do have extra ducting in my SRX, then I'm grateful for it after the chilly weather we've been experiencing in west and south Texas. The heater works well and the floor is warm. Tucson later today!
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:54 PM   #11
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Question on my Alpine in the bathroom floor register there is alot of airflow. this is a short run from furnace could i put a adjustable diffuser in and not cause any problems with furnace overheating overall air flow is acceptable throughout but thought it might help balance it out. i have already straigtened duct work out.
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Old 01-14-2015, 01:15 PM   #12
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You sure can, won't hurt a thing. Air will take the path of least resistance, so adding resistance in the bath will cause the air to exit somewhere else.
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Old 01-14-2015, 01:32 PM   #13
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Thanks
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Old 01-22-2015, 07:22 PM   #14
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the ducting goes past the end registers and does provide radiant heat to the enclosed underbelly. it is designed that way. each register is checked for air flow at the factory and is quite adequate. A problem exists if a register is having low flow.
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:26 PM   #15
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I have a fuzion 342 and this past weekend I was checking out my heater and I have no air flow in the garage vent. Is the only way to check the connection is taking the underbelly off? I looked at the furnace and I am guessing there is duct work attached to the bottom as well as what is visible on the back of the furnace? All the other floor vents have good airflow. Is there a diagram that shows heat duct work lay out?
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:40 PM   #16
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If you can, just "peel back" enough of the coroplast/underbelly off so you can see the ductwork. Check for kinks or loose connections and fix if necessary. Sorry, there are no diagrams showing the layout of the ductwork, plumbing or electrical layout.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:15 PM   #17
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Sounds good thanks as some of these other posts mentioned I may just use a pro pain space heater. But I will definitely check the duct work first. Thanks


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Old 10-20-2015, 01:38 PM   #18
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Do not use a propane space heater indoors. It consumes oxygen for the flame and produces carbon monoxide.

That's the main reason your furnace is vented to the outside and the refer cabinet is sealed
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:09 PM   #19
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Desert185, Howdy;

Here's a wee bit of 'lite' reading that can help you out if you truly would like
to tighten up your heating system and square away your under belly area,
Get comfortable, and happy reading and learning ...

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=19807


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