Dometic 310 toilet install, waterline clearance.

[KarenK]

Measured the back wall clearance again tonight to make sure the 310 Dometic would fit, have 10.5" from bolt to back wall. Camping World lists clearances the same for the 310 and the 320. But other sites (and threads here) says min. of 10" for the 310.

My worry is that the water line doesn't come up near the wall but is centered at the back of the Thetford toilet. Not sure how big the hole or flange is but the waterline is 5" from the wall.

I was going to order the toilet tonight but now not sure if the water line is going to prevent me for putting in a 310. Is the base of the 310 too wide to install as is or will I have to move the waterline?

As always, thanks for your input.

[sourdough]

Here is the link to the installation instructions for the 310;

https://www.dometic.com/assets/41/80...nual_54180.pdf

The bigger concern is where your drain is in relation to the wall with the Thetford vs what it will be with the Dometic. I've replaced 3 Thetfords in various trailers with a Dometic 310 and never had an issue....never even measured to fit but was comfortable with an "eyeball" view they would work. I don't know what your measurements are and the "bolt" could be in different places. My water line is 4" from the wall and it is 7" to the back of the base of my 310 if that helps - the drain hole placement will dictate fitment.

[KarenK]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Here is the link to the installation instructions for the 310;

https://www.dometic.com/assets/41/80...nual_54180.pdf

The bigger concern is where your drain is in relation to the wall with the Thetford vs what it will be with the Dometic. I've replaced 3 Thetfords in various trailers with a Dometic 310 and never had an issue....never even measured to fit but was comfortable with an "eyeball" view they would work. I don't know what your measurements are and the "bolt" could be in different places. My water line is 4" from the wall and it is 7" to the back of the base of my 310 if that helps - the drain hole placement will dictate fitment.

I saved the manual earlier, too bad none of the measurements say what the diameter of the base is. The drain center should be at my 10.5" because the bolts on the flange are probably at 3 and 9 o'clock. Going to order it. Thanks. Worst case is I have to fudge the waterline over.

[rhagfo]

You will need to do some plumbing, might be as simple as a flexible connection from the existing pipe to the toilet water valve. You might also take the opportunity to add a shut off valve for the toilet to make the job changing the bowl seal or water valve easier if needed in the future.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by KarenK

I saved the manual earlier, too bad none of the measurements say what the diameter of the base is. The drain center should be at my 10.5" because the bolts on the flange are probably at 3 and 9 o'clock. Going to order it. Thanks. Worst case is I have to fudge the waterline over.

As Russ mentioned, take the time when you replace it to modify your water line and add a flexible residential toilet connection hose and a 1/4 turn shut off valve. The 310 will be oriented differently and the flexible hose makes it SO much easier manipulating things vs trying to make the inflexible pex "flexible". You might consider using push type SharkBite fitting on the pex to make it even easier. Used one on this toilet for the first time and it hasn't hinted at giving a problem...and it's very easy to install.

[KarenK]

Originally Posted by sourdough

As Russ mentioned, take the time when you replace it to modify your water line and add a flexible residential toilet connection hose and a 1/4 turn shut off valve. The 310 will be oriented differently and the flexible hose makes it SO much easier manipulating things vs trying to make the inflexible pex "flexible". You might consider using push type SharkBite fitting on the pex to make it even easier. Used one on this toilet for the first time and it hasn't hinted at giving a problem...and it's very easy to install.

Thanks, didn't even occur to me to take a look at it from the basement storage. I'll post a picture of it after we eat. Learned something new, they make a gizmo that bends the waterline and keeps it from kinking.

[KarenK]

Ordered the toilet and will move the waterline if I have to once I see where the 310 will sit. Looks easy enough, probably easier than the water heater I put in the other camper. I had never seen these black bend holders before on our other 3 campers.

[KarenK]

Toilet went in fine, just had to cut the edge of the bushing? off that was in the hole so the toilet would sit flush to the floor in the back in front of the water line.

But didn't find the right water line to connect it up yet. Tried a flexible faucet one (hear they usually fit). Don't know much about types of connection or plumbing. Here's what the end is. I'll look at the nearest RV place but they're standard is we don't carry it but can order it for you.

DH has some pex tools but not sure what I'm doing. Don't want to ask him...he's a bull in a china shop and busy working on replacing stringers on our deck.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by KarenK

Toilet went in fine, just had to cut the edge of the bushing? off that was in the hole so the toilet would sit flush to the floor in the back in front of the water line.

But didn't find the right water line to connect it up yet. Tried a flexible faucet one (hear they usually fit). Don't know much about types of connection or plumbing. Here's what the end is. I'll look at the nearest RV place but they're standard is we don't carry it but can order it for you.

DH has some pex tools but not sure what I'm doing. Don't want to ask him...he's a bull in a china shop and busy working on replacing stringers on our deck.

That joint will come apart, they are just very tight sometimes. I actually hard plumbed our Dometic 320 with PEX and the plastic fittings. The shutoff valve I added was a sharkbite fitting from HD. It wasn't that hard to get correct.

[KarenK]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

That joint will come apart, they are just very tight sometimes. I actually hard plumbed our Dometic 320 with PEX and the plastic fittings. The shutoff valve I added was a sharkbite fitting from HD. It wasn't that hard to get correct.

Are you saying I could cut the tubing (it's too long anyway) and then take that end to the store to show them that I need a sharkbite to fit this tubing, a shut off valve, and flexline to the pc I cut off? I've put in residentual sinks and faucets, soldered copper lines before...this plastic stuff I just don't get it. Thanks!

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by KarenK

Are you saying I could cut the tubing (it's too long anyway) and then take that end to the store to show them that I need a sharkbite to fit this tubing, a shut off valve, and flexline to the pc I cut off? I've put in residentual sinks and faucets, soldered copper lines before...this plastic stuff I just don't get it. Thanks!

This is how I did mine all PEX the shutoff valve is below the floor. This was the easiest way to cut into the existing plumbing.

[chuckster57]

There is a tool for taking that fitting apart in your second picture.

https://www.plumbersstock.com/flair-...sc_intid=13699

And yes you can take the part you cut to a big box hardware store and the person there SHOULD be able to help you get what you need. Just cut the pex straight and you’ll be fine

[sourdough]

Karen you can use something like this;

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-U...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

The link shows one that comes in one package but you can buy the separate components as I did. Just cut the pex off to the right length, deburr the cut and push the Sharkbite connector down on it. Quick, easy and effective. I've used those push Sharkbites on 3 applications now and they have been really convenient and hold up well with no leaks.

[KarenK]

Thank you, I'll cut the line and take the end with me.

[bobbecky]

It’s standard 1/2” PEX pipe. 1/2” PEX Sharkbite fittings will work perfectly.

[wrvond]

If you're using Sharkbites rather than crimping, be aware that there is a positive "click" when the Sharkbite is properly seated. It is possible to attach the Sharkbite and not leak - for a while.

[sourdough]

I have not had any of the push Sharkbites leak that I've installed but I've only put on 3. Prior to using them I asked the plumbers that were doing all the work on my house remodel about them and they said they should work fine - and so far they have. But;

Karen looking at that pic I think I would find some sort of plastic collar to go around that pex that penetrates the floor in the new location that would extend down into the hole to prevent any leakage from soaking into the flooring. As I said, I've not had any leaks but the ones I've installed were all where they are visible, the worst being where the vacuum break was under the sink. I can either see or feel those connections easily to see if they are leaking....which I do frequently.

If you are worried about leakage you could get the crimp fittings which would require the crimping tool.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

This is how I did mine all PEX the shutoff valve is below the floor. This was the easiest way to cut into the existing plumbing.

FYI Karen these are all pex compression fittings!
Nice job!
My only concern would be the valve, if it's under the floor it's not much help, time you go outside to shut it off in an emergency it would faster to shut off the main faucet connecting the rv. Added mine directly behind the toilet.
If there's room the setup sourdough sent the link for would be a very simple very effective way to make the connection, 1 sharkbite connection & one threaded, done.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I have not had any of the push Sharkbites leak that I've installed but I've only put on 3. Prior to using them I asked the plumbers that were doing all the work on my house remodel about them and they said they should work fine - and so far they have. But;

Karen looking at that pic I think I would find some sort of plastic collar to go around that pex that penetrates the floor in the new location that would extend down into the hole to prevent any leakage from soaking into the flooring. As I said, I've not had any leaks but the ones I've installed were all where they are visible, the worst being where the vacuum break was under the sink. I can either see or feel those connections easily to see if they are leaking....which I do frequently.

If you are worried about leakage you could get the crimp fittings which would require the crimping tool.

That’s the reason we prefer “flair it” fittings. You simply press the fitting all the way in and then tighten the collar until it “squeaks”. Haven’t had a failure yet in over 10 years.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

FYI Karen these are all pex compression fittings!
Nice job!
My only concern would be the valve, if it's under the floor it's not much help, time you go outside to shut it off in an emergency it would faster to shut off the main faucet connecting the rv. Added mine directly behind the toilet.
If there's room the setup sourdough sent the link for would be a very simple very effective way to make the connection, 1 sharkbite connection & one threaded, done.

Danny, this is my installation not Karen’s. The reason the Valve end is under the floor is it was just too tight to place above the floor. I was worried that the release ring would contact the floor and release the PEX!
The cargo door to access the valve is on door side of the 5er, it is like five steps.