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Old 04-21-2022, 03:47 AM   #1
DavidAndDonna
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adjustable fan control for rear condenser refrigerator fans

we just installed the Dometic RM1350 and currently with 60 degree temps everything is cooling as should. We're running temp setting on #3 with 35 degree temperature.
However,
I've read a slew of posts where there are cooling problems with larger 4 door fridge's from Dometic & Norcold.
We're planning a LONG trip SOON and I'm trying to get ahead of fridge temp problems before we hit the road.

I added 4 fans to the chimney top vent and wired with an on/off switch yesterday.

I've read the OEM 130 degree switch that controls condenser fans on rear of fridge should be upgraded to turn the fans on around 85 degrees, has anyone changed there OEM switch to 85 degrees?

Has anyone done an upgrade like the link?

Is there a simple 85 degree switch available?

Is there a reason this would be a BAD mod?

https://rvcoolingunit.com/Adjustable...-P5784096.aspx

Thanks !!!
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Old 04-21-2022, 07:18 AM   #2
bobbecky
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An even better upgrade would be adding the protection device Fridge Defend from ARP. www.arprv.com
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Old 04-21-2022, 07:30 AM   #3
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Sounds like you're fixing something that ain't broke......yet!
Not saying "some" absorption type fridges don't have problems, but we've owned 7-8 rvs with both Dometic & Norcold & unless we were parked with the back of the fridge facing west in Arizona or Nevada summers have never had a fridge issue. I put the 2 D cell battery powered fan in the bottom right corner of the fridge & all was well.
I know you read threads on any forum that someone has issues with their fridge, or any other item on their rv, but at the same time there's 100's of thousands out there that never had a problem they just don't post "went camping this weekend & my fridge (or fill in the _______) worked great!".
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Old 04-21-2022, 09:27 AM   #4
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My Alpine came with the RM1350.. i have done zero modifications to it. The unit runs around 33 to 35 at temps in the 90s outside.. at temps over 100 it will get to about 38 but cools right back down when temps outside lower..

I see no reason to add the ARP unit and I personally wont.. Some like it.. Keep the coils clean, do routine maintenance on the Flue stack and it should give you great service.. I run my mostly in electric mode but when towing or boon docking run it in LP mode

After 8 years of use no issues
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Old 04-21-2022, 10:50 AM   #5
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well it's just a matter of being somewhat prepared and know one's options when you're 1500 miles from home and at the mercy of whoever shows up to do a repair.
I used to carry extra spark plugs, a set of points, and a condenser, once in a while they came in handy.
Thanks
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Old 04-21-2022, 10:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckS View Post
My Alpine came with the RM1350.. i have done zero modifications to it. The unit runs around 33 to 35 at temps in the 90s outside.. at temps over 100 it will get to about 38 but cools right back down when temps outside lower..

I see no reason to add the ARP unit and I personally wont.. Some like it.. Keep the coils clean, do routine maintenance on the Flue stack and it should give you great service.. I run my mostly in electric mode but when towing or boon docking run it in LP mode

After 8 years of use no issues
sounds good was just looking for some input. Don't like being broke down on the road.
I suspect "IF" we have issue the exhaust fan mod should do the trick.
Thanks
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Old 04-21-2022, 02:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidAndDonna View Post
sounds good was just looking for some input. Don't like being broke down on the road.
I suspect "IF" we have issue the exhaust fan mod should do the trick.
Thanks
Nothing wrong with being prepared. We’ve had our Alpine pretty much all over the western states.. been down in Nevada in 100 plus temps.. I’ve found the OEM fans have done fine for the RM1350..

I have often considered and thought about adding some fans back behind the unit or up higher at the upper vent .. mine is installed in a slide out so cooling concerns are more critical with this type of install

That said I’ve not had any issues with my setup..

I also looked at the ARP add on and while it has its merits I didn’t see the need for it 8 years ago and still don’t today

If the fridge is installed in a slide out the the placement of the upper baffle is key to good operation .. some folks make the mistake of removing the baffle because it blocks 1/2 of the coils . It’s designed that way..

I prefer to keep things in my RV as much as OEM as possible because it makes TS easier down the road should the need arise.

When you add in a bunch of other after market items they may work great until they fail.. then TS might be a tad more difficult .. especially if you ve forgotten the specifics of the add on items

It also makes TS more difficult for the next fellow should you sell the RV.. then the OP has no idea what extras have been added in the circuit

YMMV
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