Weight Distribution with Sway Control

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by Urbish

Ensure that the safety chains are crossed under the tongue and properly attached. Make sure the breakaway cable is routed so that it won't snag on anything or drag on the ground. Some people connect it to the safety chain loops on the hitch. I connect mine to a rigid point on the vehicle unaffiliated with the hitch. Some people have had their entire hitch fall off or the welds that hold the receiver tube break free which results in the trailer brakes not being set.

If you're interested in where you are at weight-wise, hit up a CAT scale on the way home and weigh your rig for about $13. That lets you know where you are at and how much more stuff you can consider loading (and where you should load it).

Thank you. I guess i should've clarified to make sure the WDH or sway bars were installed properly. I always check the chains and my breakaway cable is attached to the hitch pin lock like the one below.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/1-4-Locki...Lock/119182889

Good idea about the scale. It's been on my to-do. I'll find the closest one. What the different ways I need to weigh? Solo TV, solo TT, combined TV and TT. Anything else?

[Urbish]

Originally Posted by Weldon

Thank you. I guess i should've clarified to make sure the WDH or sway bars were installed properly. I always check the chains and my breakaway cable is attached to the hitch pin lock like the one below.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/1-4-Locki...Lock/119182889

Good idea about the scale. It's been on my to-do. I'll find the closest one. What the different ways I need to weigh? Solo TV, solo TT, combined TV and TT. Anything else?

It is hard to check that the WDH is installed properly while at the dealer outside of a visual inspection. One thing you can do is find an open area in their lot and turn your vehicle fully one direction and get the trailer as tight one way as you can. Then get out and verify that the spring bar on the other side isn't about to slip off the L-bracket.

I'm confused about the breakaway cable having anything to do with the locking coupler pin. The cable needs to go to a secure point on your tow vehicle that is strong enough to pull the pin out of the switch should your trailer become disconnected or if your hitch fails.

I do three weighs (my local CAT scale is $13 for first, then $3 for each subsequent). One with TT and WDH connected, one with WDH spring bars disconnected but TT still connected, and one with the tow vehicle alone. Then you know what your setup is when going down the freeway, exactly how much your WDH is doing, and you can calculate what your TT weighs by subtracting standalone vehicle from your total weight with trailer. No need to weight solo TT, plus they probably won't let you linger on the scale to disconnect your TT to weight it standalone anyway.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Weldon

My Equalizer and 2 5/16 ball finally arrived. It definitely has some weight to it. I bought an Equalizer 14,000 ball, but the shank is over 4" long and the Equalizer instructions say it can't be over 2 3/8." ...is there anything else I need to inspect before pulling the TT back to storage?

The reason for the maximum 2 3/8" shank length is to prevent your WD bars from contacting the "longer ball shank" in a tight turn. It's real easy to bend a $200 bar if it hangs up on the ball shank as you back into a campsite or make a tight turn in a gas station. The shorter shank rides "high enough in the hitch" that the WD bars will pass under the shank without catching on it....

Don't install a "long shank ball" on an Equalizer hitch, you can very easily damage/destroy your brand new hitch the first time you back the trailer into a parking spot.

It seems that every year I go through this "spiel" so now is as good a time as any:

When you are setting up your hitch, follow the instructions from the hitch manual to get the weight, fender measurements, WD bar tensioning and positioning correct.... That's all in the manual and fairly easy to follow...

Once that's done and you're sure you have the hitch "set up correctly", step back and "think about what happens in an emergency"....

Here's what happens if the trailer coupler fails and the trailer separates from your tow vehicle:

1. The trailer starts slowing down until it reaches the length of the safety chains.
2. At that point, the trailer will be "jerked" back up to tow vehicle speed...
3. When that happens, the trailer will likely contact the rear of the tow vehicle UNLESS you have the breakaway cable "properly adjusted in length"...

The way the system is "supposed to work" is as the trailer moves away from the tow vehicle, BEFORE it reaches the maximum safety chain length, the breakaway cable SHOULD pull the pin, energizing the trailer brakes (powered by the trailer battery).... THEN, when the chains tighten and the trailer is "jerked into the back of the tow vehicle" the trailer brakes will cause the trailer to "keep its distance and not crash into the back of your truck"....

MOST people just coil up the extra breakaway cable or tie it in a couple of knots so it won't drag the ground and call it a day..... THAT'S A SURE WAY TO DAMAGE YOUR RIG !!!!! Or worse, to kill somebody....

The breakaway cable should be "cut to proper length" so it ALWAYS pulls the pin BEFORE the safety chains reach maximum length.... You should make sure the breakaway cable is long enough not to pull the pin in a tight turn but short enough to pull the pin before the safety chains get tight and/or break, causing a "runaway trailer"....

So, step back, think through "what really happens if the trailer separates from the tow vehicle" and make sure you've set up your system so it works like it's supposed to, not like the dealership sent you "over the curb"....

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Weldon

Thank you. I guess i should've clarified to make sure the WDH or sway bars were installed properly. I always check the chains and my breakaway cable is attached to the hitch pin lock like the one below.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/1-4-Locki...Lock/119182889

Good idea about the scale. It's been on my to-do. I'll find the closest one. What the different ways I need to weigh? Solo TV, solo TT, combined TV and TT. Anything else?

Here's the site on how to weigh at Cat Scale https://catscale.com/how-to-weigh/ I suggest downloading the app as it makes it easy to pay and get the results without going inside.

[sourdough]

[QUOTE=Weldon;444213]My Equalizer and 2 5/16 ball finally arrived. It definitely has some weight to it. I bought an Equalizer 14,000 ball, but the shank is over 4" long and the Equalizer instructions say it can't be over 2 3/8." That seems extremely small, but maybe I need to look for a different one? I was looking at the installation instructions, and see that one specific bolt requires over 430 ft lbs of pressure!? I thought my HF WDH was high at 260 (or whatever it was).


Weldon like John explained, that 4" shank is too long. Looking at the Equalizer head you can see how the bar sockets rotate across the bottom of the head. A shank sticking way down below that could impair the movement in a sharp maneuver. Also note there is a deep recess under the hole for the ball for the shank to stick into so it leaves room for the shank to stick through, the washer and the nut without extending down into the way of the bars.

For mine the shank extends about 2 threads below the bottom of the hole but has never caused a problem and there are no marks on either of the bar pockets indicating they have ever hit. If like mine, the nut in that hole will require a thin wall 1 7/8" socket. I got mine at NAPA. First one I bought would not fit down into the hole so got the thin wall. Made by Armstrong I believe.

Bought a 350lb? 3/4" torque wrench at HF (which has worked fine). When the dealer initially installed the hitch on a 1/2 ton I didn't check it because the trailer had already been hitched to it (just bought trailer new). Clanked all the way home (60mi) and when I pulled the trailer off the ball found the nut screwed on by 2 threads and the ball literally wobbling all over the place so double check their work. When I went to an HD truck had to buy an extended shank for the Equalizer. On that one I had the Equalizer installation manual and stood there through every step of the installation process to verify it was done correctly. It worked just fine until I pulled it off last year. BTW, if you get that nut sucked down to 350+ lbs. it ain't going nowhere. I double checked mine before every tow and it didn't budge after the initial installation and that was with a 9300lb.(weighed) trailer in tow.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The reason for the maximum 2 3/8" shank length is to prevent your WD bars from contacting the "longer ball shank" in a tight turn. It's real easy to bend a $200 bar if it hangs up on the ball shank as you back into a campsite or make a tight turn in a gas station. The shorter shank rides "high enough in the hitch" that the WD bars will pass under the shank without catching on it....

Don't install a "long shank ball" on an Equalizer hitch, you can very easily damage/destroy your brand new hitch the first time you back the trailer into a parking spot.
...

MOST people just coil up the extra breakaway cable or tie it in a couple of knots so it won't drag the ground and call it a day..... THAT'S A SURE WAY TO DAMAGE YOUR RIG !!!!! Or worse, to kill somebody....

The breakaway cable should be "cut to proper length" so it ALWAYS pulls the pin BEFORE the safety chains reach maximum length.... You should make sure the breakaway cable is long enough not to pull the pin in a tight turn but short enough to pull the pin before the safety chains get tight and/or break, causing a "runaway trailer"....

So, step back, think through "what really happens if the trailer separates from the tow vehicle" and make sure you've set up your system so it works like it's supposed to, not like the dealership sent you "over the curb"....

Really appreciate the help. Quoting John here, but I appreciate all the help.
The nearest scale is 20 miles from us. Since i live near 2 major interstates, I was hoping one would be closer, but I'm sure it could be worse. I'll just make a "me" trip out of it. Downloaded the CAT Weight My Truck App.

I'll return the 4" shank ball and get a shorter one...that feedback I REALLY appreciate, John. I would not have been happy destroying my new WDH in 2 weeks when we back into our spot at the lake.

I am "one of those" that you described. My breakaway cable way dragging, which was ripping the plastic cover from around the cable. So, I zipped it to the chains. Problem solved! I'm glad you called me out on it. I'll get that fixed this weekend so it sits and functions properly. I still need to remove the bike rack as well. We haven't used it, and won't, so I just need to remove it.

[Bill-2020]

Originally Posted by Weldon

Really appreciate the help. Quoting John here, but I appreciate all the help.
The nearest scale is 20 miles from us. Since i live near 2 major interstates, I was hoping one would be closer, but I'm sure it could be worse. I'll just make a "me" trip out of it. Downloaded the CAT Weight My Truck App.

Jason, the CAT Scale app is very easy to use. You’ll enjoy it. It makes the process easier but some prefer to go in and talk to the weigh master too. I like the electronic weigh slip personally. It’s something that I can refer back to quickly.

I busted a HF 3/4 wrench once. Pushing down on it while the hitch was in the receiver, rotated over so the ball was facing sideways giving me max leverage on the ball nut, that wrench snapped and down I went. I’m not a sailor - but I sure yelled some cuss words out that even caught myself by surprise from this 51 year old mouth of mine.

[Finjergusson]

Look up a pro pride hitch. By far the best guaranteed not to sway. It is not cheap but you will never find better. Customer service is amazing as well. We are taking our trailer 10k round trip across the country and would never try it with anything else (I had the equalizer and a blue ox previously)

[Weldon]

E4 is installed and this coming Thur we are taking a quick trip 3.5 hrs away to Wind Creek, AL. I couldn't really feel the difference on my way home from Gander but then again, it was all backroads and I didn't get over 45 mph. Practiced hitching / unhitching 5 or 6 times to ensure I understood the mechanics. Happy with it. As a bonus, met a local guy on my way home from Gander and sold him my HF WDH and dual sway bars. He owns a A.C. business and pulls a heavy trailer behind his truck. Paid for most of the install at Gander. If I could just dump my bike rack, Curt hitch system for my wifes Journey, and the non-EMS surge protectors...

Thanks for the WDH info. This was an upgrade I had no problem paying for.

[Weldon]

QQ. In the pic above, where the 8 screws can be seen on the tongue, there are now just holes where previously I had sway bars on both sides. I placed 4" gorilla tape over them, and it is waterproof but only a short term fix. What should I do about the 8 holes on both sides? We will upgrade at some point in the future.

[JRTJH]

I would treat the holes with rust preventative spray, Naval Jelly is just one of many brands, then put a piece of tape behind the holes, fill them in with JB Weld and once it's set up, sand the surface smooth and hit the area with a coat of Rustoleum that "matches the rest of the tongue A frame....

Keep an eye on the holes from time to time to make sure you don't get any "spider cracks" radiating away from a hole. Any "change in metal" by drilling a hole or patching one "can" (not will) set up a potential for further cracking of the metal as it flexes. In your situation, it's not a "oh my moment" but just something to watch through the years of ownership. You probably won't have the issue, but better to be aware than to have a 3" crack between holes and find a "missing section of A frame" 3 or 4 years from now....

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Weldon

QQ. In the pic above, where the 8 screws can be seen on the tongue, there are now just holes where previously I had sway bars on both sides. I placed 4" gorilla tape over them, and it is waterproof but only a short term fix. What should I do about the 8 holes on both sides? We will upgrade at some point in the future.

Install nuts and bolts and paint. Done.

[Bill-2020]

Good to hear, Jason. Enjoy your time behind the wheel and then under the awning!

[Weldon]

Thanks guys. I am very familiar with jb weld from working on old motorcycles. I appreciate the suggestions. I will tell y'all what I end up doing bur it will be after our trip. Bill, thats exactly what i plan on doing. (I'm from Alabama and lived in GA since '01...im justified in saying y'all)

[Urbish]

Originally Posted by Weldon

QQ. In the pic above, where the 8 screws can be seen on the tongue, there are now just holes where previously I had sway bars on both sides. I placed 4" gorilla tape over them, and it is waterproof but only a short term fix. What should I do about the 8 holes on both sides? We will upgrade at some point in the future.

I worked for the US Army in the Tank Automotive R&D Center north of Detroit for a long time. We used Sikaflex-221 to seal exterior fasteners and grounding lugs on armored vehicles. The stuff goes on like caulk, is very tough and remains pliable. It would be an excellent product to seal up your holes permanently.

https://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-Blac.../dp/B075459TRB

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by Urbish

I worked for the US Army in the Tank Automotive R&D Center north of Detroit for a long time. We used Sikaflex-221 to seal exterior fasteners and grounding lugs on armored vehicles. The stuff goes on like caulx, is very tough and remains pliable. It would be an excellent product to seal up your holes permanently.

https://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-Blac.../dp/B075459TRB

Thanks Urbish. Never heard of it before now, but description sounds perfect for my situation. I think I have black stop rust spray paint as well. Will update y'all after.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I would treat the holes with rust preventative spray, Naval Jelly is just one of many brands, then put a piece of tape behind the holes, fill them in with JB Weld and once it's set up, sand the surface smooth and hit the area with a coat of Rustoleum that "matches the rest of the tongue A frame.

Thanks John. I plan on taking your idea but with Sikaflex 221 instead of jb weld. Both seem like a good fit but i think i will have the chance to use whats left of the Sikaflex more often on other projects. However, as soon as I say that, I will need jb weld for some other project or vice versa.

[flybouy]

I know I tend to be overly cautious but with 10 holes in such a short distance I'd be welding a plate over that "Swiss cheese" with the 8 holes and never worry about it again.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I know I tend to be overly cautious but with 10 holes in such a short distance I'd be welding a plate over that "Swiss cheese" with the 8 holes and never worry about it again.

I tend to fix or try to fix just about everything, but welding is something I never learned and have no one except YouTube to watch and learn, which really doesn't seem like a good idea. Reminds me of a sign in Alabama on i-20 heading west..."We repair what your husband fixed. " that sign is just before the "grab life by the beaver nuggets" sign. We tend to chuckle a lot on that stretch of the drive.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Weldon

I tend to fix or try to fix just about everything, but welding is something I never learned and have no one except YouTube to watch and learn, which really doesn't seem like a good idea. Reminds me of a sign in Alabama on i-20 heading west..."We repair what your husband fixed. " that sign is just before the "grab life by the beaver nuggets" sign. We tend to chuckle a lot on that stretch of the drive.

I can appreciate that and I'm the same but there are times when I must concede and pay someone to do things. This seems to be more frequent after multiple surgeries to my neck and shoulder. If you don't know how to weld then I doubt you have a welder so the investment wouldn't be worth a "one time use" and I wouldn't want my first try at welding to happen on the structural frame of a trailer. I would imagine there's some shop around that would do that for reasonable amount. Your rig your money, just saying I personaly would not be comfortable with what I would consider a "patch" and not a repair but that's just me.