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Old 12-27-2020, 06:14 PM   #1
AF15FlyGuy
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Front wall water damage

So I'm a new member here, and have scoured the forums, but here's a question I haven't really been able to find an answer to.
We bought a used 2017 308BHS this past summer. Have been living in it since September while our house is being finished. We went away for Christmas and came back to the wall inside one of our closets in the bedroom (on the front of the trailer) looking extremely warped, being soft to the touch and making a cracking sound when pressed on. I'm guessing insurance through Good Sam (NGIC) won't cover it unless I can somehow blame it on the cold front storms that went through while we were gone for a week. About how much does it cost to fix a problem like this if we have to foot the bill ourselves? I'm sure there is a wide range of price depending on how bad the damage is, but I have no clue right now and I am looking for some sort of a range of prices so I can prepare myself. Thanks!

AF15FlyGuy

P.S. I'm trying to upload a video, but have to figure out how to make that work.
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Old 12-27-2020, 06:28 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Welcome to the forum

Cost is going to depend on how much damage there is. If just the wall panel is damaged, it’s fairly easy to replace. If any wood framework is rotted then it will cost more. I don’t want to give you a dollar figure since labor rates vary depending on what part of the country you live in.

I would get up on the roof at the soonest moment and inspect the front seam for any signs of voids. If there are any, get that fixed ASAP to stop any further damage.
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Old 12-27-2020, 06:41 PM   #3
AF15FlyGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Welcome to the forum

Cost is going to depend on how much damage there is. If just the wall panel is damaged, it’s fairly easy to replace. If any wood framework is rotted then it will cost more. I don’t want to give you a dollar figure since labor rates vary depending on what part of the country you live in.

I would get up on the roof at the soonest moment and inspect the front seam for any signs of voids. If there are any, get that fixed ASAP to stop any further damage.
Thanks for the reply. My trailer has an aluminum frame, so I think that the framing shouldn't be damaged... I could be wrong about the frame... so I'm thinking that probably most of the damage would be in the wall paneling/insulation itself? It also seems to only be on one side of the trailer. I'm going to hop up there tomorrow as we got back tonight after dark and see what's what on the roof. I fear we might have bought one that was aready leaking and were the lucky recipients of a few months of leakage.

Anybody out there with any recommendations for repair shops in middle GA (Macon/WR/ATL) area?

Thanks.
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Old 12-27-2020, 06:48 PM   #4
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The “Skelton” is probably aluminum, but I’m willing to bet most of the internal framework is 2X2 fir or pine.

Post pics of the roof and closet tomorrow when you get the chance.
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Old 12-27-2020, 06:56 PM   #5
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As Chuck stated, there's still a lot of wood. All interior walls, cabinets, doors, etc. Will be wood framed. The roof underlayment is made from plywood. So depending on the severity of the leak you could have a wide array of damage.
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Old 12-27-2020, 07:01 PM   #6
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Is the damage on the "front wall" or on the "side wall, near the front of the trailer" ???

If it's on the side wall, that structure is aluminum, bonded/laminated to foam with a luan (plywood from the far east) backer and FILON (fiberglass) on the outer surface. The front wall is not laminated, but is either an aluminum frame or a aluminum/wood frame to which the trailer front cap is attached. The interior wall is typically 2x2 and 1x2 "white wood" (often poplar or spruce) to frame the interior walls.

So, if your damage is to the laminated sidewalls, that can get expensive if the damage is substantial. The front cap/front frame is not laminated and it's much easier to repair.... Now, "cheaper is entirely dependent on where you get it done and whether they work with you or take advantage of you..... Shop around and get more than one estimate, then try to find people who have used that business in the past and see if they would recommend them after their experiences....
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Old 12-28-2020, 02:16 AM   #7
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ALM frame probably will have a wood nose. The leak is probably where the front cap meets the roof. That joint is notorious for leaking on all trailers. The interior ceiling and walls will have to be removed. That includes the closets. just went through this last summer. wet insulation must be removed. Everything must be dried out. A dehumidifier is a must. Home Depot has everything you need. repair is hard on the back.
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Old 12-28-2020, 04:52 AM   #8
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And hopefully it didn't get into the floor.
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Old 12-28-2020, 06:10 AM   #9
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Thank you all for the replies. This is our first trailer and I’m always about seeking advice. I attached a picture where you can see some of the warping. Once the frost melts I’ll climb up to look at the top. It won’t let me post a video, but pushing on the wall I can hear it cracking and it sounds like weak plywood, so I’m guessing the plywood has been soaking for a little while.

Due to my work schedule and house move I’ll be unable to do it myself... and my back wouldn’t tolerate it anyway... but I’ll keep this updated with what the repair people say. I read that the service dept here at the Macon CW is less than unreliable, so I’ll be looking at a few local places.
For those that have had nose cap work done, is it usually a fairly expeditious process or a long repair (understanding that there are probably a million variables that could affect it)? Again thanks for all of the help, newbies learning and asking the dumb questions!

AF15FlyGuy

Update: climbed up today and took some pictures. She’s dirty, but I got her a little cleaned up. Potential areas for concern I see are a couple of holes in the sealant, as well as what looks like a hole that was filled in, but I question how well it was filled in. After work I’m going to put more self leveling sealant over the obvious holes in the sealant, and over where it appears there is a filled in hole in the cap. Any other suggestions as where to look?
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Old 12-28-2020, 07:26 AM   #10
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Couple of questions. Do you see any evidence of water intrusion? I.E. and wet surfaces or staining? Was this the first time you pressed on this panel?
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Old 12-28-2020, 07:33 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
Couple of questions. Do you see any evidence of water intrusion? I.E. and wet surfaces or staining? Was this the first time you pressed on this panel?
That closet that is now warped had WAY more condensation on it once the weather turned cold than any other surface. We run a big dehumidifier and on nights that we’re cold, but not close to freezing we used space heaters instead of the propane heater (which made this place covered in condensation) to keep the humidity down.
This is the first time I’ve pressed on it. Never thought before that I would need to. The closet on the other side feels sturdy, doesn’t have the wallpaper separating and the damp rid in that closet barely has any water where as my closet (the one I’m worried about) has a bunch of water in it. I do not see any other signs such as staining. But that rock, or filled in hole, or whatever it is that you can see in the picture above sits right about at the top of my closet area, and not up to the white ceiling of the bedroom.

Thanks for all of the help and questions and advice. This is a whole new world for me.

AF15FlyGuy
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Old 12-28-2020, 07:37 AM   #12
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Just some thoughts based on the little bit of information you've provided...

You said you're currently living in your trailer while your house is being built.
You said you left the trailer for a week or so and came back to the problem. (didn't notice it before you left ???)
You said it's "inside the closet.

Now, if you're living in it "full time" and doing the typical showers, cooking, heating to 70F without "more than adequate ventilation" then this could be (emphasis on "could") a condensation issue rather than a water leak issue.

The interior of the closets and any cabinets mounted to outside walls, will be cooler than normal (because of the proximity of the outside walls). The same is true for where the mattress sits against the outside wall, the space under the bed, the places where the dinette cushions sit against the outside walls, the area behind the sofa as well as all of the kitchen cupboards and cabinets that are mounted on the outside walls.... All of them will have a problem with "sweating walls" with the cabinet doors closed.....

While you may well have a "significant and dramatic" front wall/roof leak, you may also be facing an issue of condensation from full time living in a humid climate and inadequate ventilation. Your "buckling of the back wall in closets" might be from the roof or it might be from uncontrolled condensation or it might be a combination of both.....

Considering that you didn't find the problem until after the trailer was "closed and unheated for a week or so" (an assumption) I'd take a look at just how much condensation is collecting in the places listed above.

In other words, fixing the roof may not fix the wet interior walls.....
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Old 12-28-2020, 07:53 AM   #13
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Just some thoughts based on the little bit of information you've provided...

You said you're currently living in your trailer while your house is being built.
You said you left the trailer for a week or so and came back to the problem. (didn't notice it before you left ???)
You said it's "inside the closet.

Now, if you're living in it "full time" and doing the typical showers, cooking, heating to 70F without "more than adequate ventilation" then this could be (emphasis on "could") a condensation issue rather than a water leak issue.

The interior of the closets and any cabinets mounted to outside walls, will be cooler than normal (because of the proximity of the outside walls). The same is true for where the mattress sits against the outside wall, the space under the bed, the places where the dinette cushions sit against the outside walls, the area behind the sofa as well as all of the kitchen cupboards and cabinets that are mounted on the outside walls.... All of them will have a problem with "sweating walls" with the cabinet doors closed.....

While you may well have a "significant and dramatic" front wall/roof leak, you may also be facing an issue of condensation from full time living in a humid climate and inadequate ventilation. Your "buckling of the back wall in closets" might be from the roof or it might be from uncontrolled condensation or it might be a combination of both.....

Considering that you didn't find the problem until after the trailer was "closed and unheated for a week or so" (an assumption) I'd take a look at just how much condensation is collecting in the places listed above.

In other words, fixing the roof may not fix the wet interior walls.....
All great info, thank you. I guess I’m lucky in that we noticed the condensation quickly once the temps dropped we got a dehumidifier and put up damp rid. All else is correct from your assumptions, with the exception that when we left for a week we had the propane heater on to prevent lines freezing, set about 60 degrees and our big dehumidifier running and we pretty much leave the cabinet doors open all night and while we were gone. The other closet in that room did not have any buckling or warping and doesn’t sound “crackly” when pressed on.
Lord I hope it’s just warped from condensation! That I can work with.

Thanks for all of the advice and words. Keep it coming please!
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Old 12-28-2020, 07:54 AM   #14
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Looking at the photos you posted after my last post, it looks like there may be a leak "behind the clearance light" and there may be some leakage at the end of the front cap/roof molding strip. I'd clean those areas well, let them dry and apply DICOR sealant to those places. The clearance light will need DICOR NON-leveling while the molding strip will need self-leveling sealant.

Your roof has been "resealed over the original sealant" already. There are two distinct colors of the sealant. The "top layer" does not extend beyond the older sealant in much of the application.... As a "general rule" when I apply sealant over old sealant, I clean the entire surface area of the old sealant and then extend my new coating over the "ENTIRE" surface of the old sealant, extending the new layer "at least 1/2" beyond the edges of the old layer... That assures any "leaks or voids in the old layer" are completely sealed..... One of the issues I've seen repeatedly is a leak under the old sealant that migrates from one area to another. In other words, a leak in the sealant layer can allow water to travel "under the sealant" for a foot or more, then find its way into the trailer. Covering the "entire old layer" eliminates that possibility. I always overlap the old sealant so the new layer completely covers the old and the new layer margins are in contact with the roof membrane at all locations along the seam.
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Old 12-28-2020, 07:58 AM   #15
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Agree with John's analysis. I would however, check that clearance light in your photo. Looks to me like someone used some silicone around it and it's missing along some of the top edge. If it were me I'd remove that light, clean up both surfaces and reapply sealant.

As John stated, living in a small enclosed space is always a challenge with condensation. Opening a window slightly or a ceiling vent is necessary.

This statement " We run a big dehumidifier and on nights that we’re cold, but not close to freezing we used space heaters instead of the propane heater (which made this place covered in condensation) to keep the humidity down." is interesting. The LP furnace should not cause condensation any more than an electric heater at the same temperature. A byproduct of combustion is water but that should be at the exhaust outside of the trailer. If there's exhaust (combustion gases) inside then you have a serious problem with the furnace. My guess, just a guess, would be that the LP furnace is distributing the heat more efficiently and warming up the surfaces that are cold more rapidly. Space heaters bare just as the name implies, they heat a small space. The furnace with it's much higher BTU output and air movement will heat the entire trailer.
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Old 12-28-2020, 08:05 AM   #16
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Your third photo, the one that shows the end of the front cap/roof molding strip where it joins the side molding of the front cap "may be the area of a major leak". What I see there is several voids in sealant, a screw cover vinyl strip (that really is a "hose for water to travel"). Much of that area is not sealed well, any "loose screw under the vinyl strip" would be a wick for water to seep into the trailer, and any water that happens to get under the aluminum molding would also migrate to any part of the entire structure. I'd pull the ends of that vinyl strip, inspect carefully for any evidence of water under the strip and any loose screws under the vinyl. Also seal that entire area well. There are more than a few places visible in that single photo that could be a cause of the entire problem.... But, that clearance light is also "very much suspect"....

I'd take a couple hours and do a good cleaning and reapplication of the sealant. Remember, it won't seal well if done under about 50F and it will be "one big mess" if you apply it and it rains or is exposed to a heavy dew before the sealant has several hours to cure.... DON'T APPLY IT AT DUSK and hope for good results.... This is a "sunny morning project" not a "after work before it gets too dark project".....
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Old 12-28-2020, 06:05 PM   #17
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Thanks so much for the info so far. I am going to patch seal the self leveling parts tomorrow and take care of the light as soon as I can. I have a guy coming out later this week to take a look at it. I appreciate all of the info so far. I'm really hoping that I don't have a completely trashed front cap. For now I think the best I can do is seal her up really good (after a good cleaning) and then wait until we're moved out to have the front cap taken off and really inspected.

Thanks so far, and I will update once I have more info. I'm assuming that someone else will be suffering from a similar issue at some time.

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Old 12-28-2020, 06:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AF15FlyGuy View Post
...

... I'm assuming that someone else will be suffering from a similar issue at some time.

AF15FlyGuy
Others have in the past and no doubt others will in the future. The weakest part of most RV's is the roof and the "Achilles heel" for RV's is the front cap molding strip and corners.
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Old 12-30-2020, 06:58 PM   #19
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Light was a culprit

So thanks to everyone who looked at the pictures and helped. I had a mobile tech come by today and said it wasn’t as bad as he thought, we caught it fairly early and once sealed up it can wait for a little bit to get fixed.

That being said, the light was definitely a, if not the, culprit. Took it apart today and found standing water under the light and water in the hole. Attached are the picture. So I cleaned it up and resealed the light with bright white non sag (all they had, and screw it it’s dry now).

To another point. Do they make non sag sealant clear at all? Because if not, it looks like the whole camper was sealed with a clear sealant and I’m hoping that not every light and side protrusion is sealed with silicone. That will be a bear to fix!
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Old 12-30-2020, 09:58 PM   #20
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Most of the clear sealant is ProFlex RV. You can get it in 10 ounce tubes (standard caulking gun size) on Amazon. Many camper parts stores also have it in stock. https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC2810...866BRFNV2WEK88
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