First tow

[ctbruce]

This may not be your WDH, but it illustrates some of the noises that are common with them. Is this like what you're hearing?

https://youtu.be/WmJB1zyN8H8

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[waltheraustin]

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

Walther, I am not mad just confused. Your 1st post you think the tranny or the hitch may have caused metal on metal sound, several on here me included suggest the hitch because they make that sound. Your taking it to the dealer without even finding out if the hitch system is the cause. If your tranny is really making metal on metal sounds it has a big problem. I hope not because you might not make it back to the dealer. Again I am not mad, let us know how the problem is fixed that way we help each other.

I didn't think anyone was mad or upset. My apologies if I missed something. quite a few beers this weekend.

It may be normal wastegate noises. I used the eq 4pt last year so I'm definitely aware of the creaking and popping. Truck runs great, just extra noises I'm not used too. It runs better than great actually. This is a torqued up little engine that pulls great! It's really amazing.

Hooked up my forscan to it to check for codes and nada. Still can't get over how much better this if from my Silverado although it was a 2012 so I'm sure the new ones are so much better

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[markjamestx]

This is the only post that I found that was somewhat related to my question. I am not convinced that any of the 2-inch hitch silencers that I have found so far online will work. I have an 1000 lb e2 trunion hitch pulling a fully loaded 7800 lb camper. Great hitch, no sway and professionally adjusted where Truck and trailer sits level, with only 10 PSI in air bags. Same thing for a 2500 Dodge Ram and a Toyota Tundra Platinum. I keep the hitch adjustment maintained before each pull. What is your experience or recommendations?

[JRTJH]

Hitch "anti-rattle devices" are typically designed to prevent rattles and receiver noise "WHEN THERE IS NO TRAILER ATTACHED" or to prevent "excessive bouncing" when a bike rack/cargo tray is attached to the receiver....

There is no way a 3/8" u bolt is going to prevent movement of a 1000 pound load during a twisting load or during a vertical/horizontal force caused by a significant change in receiver/hitch load.....

If your "stinger with ball" is inserted in the receiver, an "anti-rattle device" will help prevent the "clunking and rattling" as you drive. Once you hitch up an equalizer/weight distribution/anti-sway hitch to that receiver, the forces the receiver is subjected to are far above what that little u bolt can prevent....

Additionally, much of the "hitch noise" is caused by chain movement on the other end of the WD bars or by creaking at the ends of the bars that are inserted in the hitch head, not by the "2x2 inch bar that's inserted into the receiver".....

[markjamestx]

My thoughts exactly, but wanted to get some other comments.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by markjamestx

This is the only post that I found that was somewhat related to my question. I am not convinced that any of the 2-inch hitch silencers that I have found so far online will work. I have an 1000 lb e2 trunion hitch pulling a fully loaded 7800 lb camper. Great hitch, no sway and professionally adjusted where Truck and trailer sits level, with only 10 PSI in air bags. Same thing for a 2500 Dodge Ram and a Toyota Tundra Platinum. I keep the hitch adjustment maintained before each pull. What is your experience or recommendations?

Hitch silencers can and will work depending on where your noise is coming from and why. Here is a link to one I bought;

https://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Clamp-2...%2C211&sr=8-13

My issue was primarily the play between a 2 1/2" receiver, an insert to reduce to 2" and the 2" shank from the EQ hitch. The slop created by those components was stopped by the use of the above clamp - it was a 10k gvw trailer about 1100 on the tongue. If you just have the 2" receiver and a 2" hitch shank there shouldn't be as much play/noise. There was enough in mine to bang when it went up and down or side to side.

I have since sold the bumper pull and no longer use it for the trailer. I did have a custom shank made to mount my mud flaps on that still fits in that 2" reducer so I use it on that now. Without out it those flaps flip and flop every which way. Crank the clamp down and it won't budge.....and still won't after 7k miles as I did last trip. The trick on that particular hitch is to crank down on that securing bolt. I use about a 28" 1/2" drive ratchet bar and pull it down to where you think it's going to break (should put a torque wrench on it one day) then tighten down the lock nut tight - but not as tight as the bolt. Prior to doing that it WOULD loosen up and wiggle if I just cranked it down with a regular 3/8" ratchet.