Lithium Battery Upgrade Advice

[Stircrazy]

Originally Posted by GASII

I have a 2019 26RBS and am considering an upgrade to Lithium batteries, for our current pair of 100amp hour deep cells 27s on the tongue.
Our typical use (only wife & I, who are full-time RVers) is to boondock over a weekend with limited (if any) need to run the furnace. In the past, we have operated minimally overnight on the 12V systems (including 2 CPAP breathing machines) and do not currently intend to install an inverter, as we have a stand alone quiet generator that we can use during the day to recharge batteries and run any needed 120V items.
Primary question: Is the tow vehicle (2018 RAM 1500) & Keystone factory charging shore power system typically compatible with/safe for Lithium without modification?
Question 2: Any opinions on if a 100 vs. 200 amp hour battery would be sufficient? (cost is always a concern)
Question 3: I have a factory installed Furrion solar port, which we do not currently use. Is that system compatible with Lithium batteries? Any opinion on whether a stand alone solar charging system is a better choice? (I do not desire to permanently install solar at this time)
Any other thoughts?

As for the first question, my answer would be no if it is factory but with an explanation. As far as I am concerned no factory charging setup through the 7 way is adequate. The line is small and long so there is lots of voltage drop. It will work, just not as good as say installing a DC to DC charger and running two new larger wires with a plug. now to the keystone converter. some people will say yes you can use it, you just won't get a proper charge. I say in an emergency it will work because it doesn't give you a proper charge and you should look at getting a proper Lithium compatible charger if yours isn't. preferably a 2 stage Li converter.

for question 2 I would have to know what your batteries are right now as in type and capacity wise, and if they last you the whole weekend or not. if you just have two standard type that came with the rv they are probably 80AH which really you should only use 1/2 that so if you have two that gives you 80AH of useable power. so, one 100amp LiFePo4 would cover it. but if you are using your generator and charging that once on the weekend then getting two LFP batteries might make it so you don't have to charge on that weekend away.

not sure about the furon port, I don't know what it is

[RacerX]

Originally Posted by PackFan

Fortunately, the Cougar has the WFCO WF-8955-AD converter that will auto detect and adjust charging parameters for the lithiums.

Is there anything else I need to consider?

Glad to hear you got the auto detect version of the WFCO converter. Our early 2022 came with the non AD version. That makes your upgrade simpler and less costly.

We also have the 400i and I have been looking at options. I like the idea of moving the battery bank into the pass thru storage. This is a tight area On the travel trailer bumper pull 32SLI but it has some good benefits including weather and security concerns. My thoughts if I did do this move would be to install a heavy duty sportsman storage bin in place of the batteries on the tongue to clear up some space inside the passthru.

Or, I have considered just installing lower cost (cheaper) drop in replacements onto the tongue. I have been watching and the Weize and Dr Prepare brands do include low temp protection in the bargain priced levels…$300-349 per 100 ah battery with 100 amp BMS’s.

Re the shunt…. As previously mentioned I had the flooded inverter cut off/shunt container that destroyed my factory delivered shunt. However I think that was a failure not of the design and box but driven by the fact that the water tight connectors weren’t tightened during the install. I have “fixed that” by tightening them and putting a way too overboard mess of urethane sealant around the connectors and the cables to make that area water tight. (Overkill and ugly but definitely sealed….). So if I moved the batteries inside, I would probably leave the sealed box where it is and just reroute the cables from the inverter and giggy box.

For now I am waiting for an excuse to pull the trigger. The dang group 24s just keep chugging along despite my worst intentions. But when they die, the easiest answer is to just stay with the tongue location, but interested to hear how you decide to proceed.

Also interested in your experiences with the auto detect converter. Reports have been mixed on YouTube and I will eventually need to upgrade mine.

Good luck!

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Since Li batteries are essentially maintenance free and don't require venting, have you considered moving them from the A-frame tongue space to inside the front passthrough? That would pretty much eliminate any security concerns and would put the batteries in a "temperature controlled environment"...

Additionally, from a "safety/fire standpoint", the way Li batteries "explode and cause a fire" it's pretty much a given that two batteries sitting on the tongue isn't much less "dangerous" than two batteries sitting in the passthrough. Either location, if there's a "mishap" is going to destroy that end of the trailer. So, moving them to the passthrough won't increase the "danger" substantially....

My understanding is that there is a vast difference in the fire hazard risks between lithium ion batteries and lithium iron phosphate (LiFePo4) batteries. I believe that the type of battery being considered here (LiFePo4) does not carry an existential threat.

[PackFan]

Originally Posted by RacerX

Glad to hear you got the auto detect version of the WFCO converter. Our early 2022 came with the non AD version. That makes your upgrade simpler and less costly.

We also have the 400i and I have been looking at options. I like the idea of moving the battery bank into the pass thru storage. This is a tight area On the travel trailer bumper pull 32SLI but it has some good benefits including weather and security concerns. My thoughts if I did do this move would be to install a heavy duty sportsman storage bin in place of the batteries on the tongue to clear up some space inside the passthru.

Or, I have considered just installing lower cost (cheaper) drop in replacements onto the tongue. I have been watching and the Weize and Dr Prepare brands do include low temp protection in the bargain priced levels…$300-349 per 100 ah battery with 100 amp BMS’s.

Re the shunt…. As previously mentioned I had the flooded inverter cut off/shunt container that destroyed my factory delivered shunt. However I think that was a failure not of the design and box but driven by the fact that the water tight connectors weren’t tightened during the install. I have “fixed that” by tightening them and putting a way too overboard mess of urethane sealant around the connectors and the cables to make that area water tight. (Overkill and ugly but definitely sealed….). So if I moved the batteries inside, I would probably leave the sealed box where it is and just reroute the cables from the inverter and giggy box.

For now I am waiting for an excuse to pull the trigger. The dang group 24s just keep chugging along despite my worst intentions. But when they die, the easiest answer is to just stay with the tongue location, but interested to hear how you decide to proceed.

Also interested in your experiences with the auto detect converter. Reports have been mixed on YouTube and I will eventually need to upgrade mine.

Good luck!

I haven't pulled the trigger yet either. Like you, my flooded lead acids are only a year old so the urgency isn't there. When the time comes, to keep things simple, I will probably just leave the batteries on the tongue and go with two 100ah models.

In addition to the ones you mention, there are a number of other choices in the $400.00 or less category. Vatrer and Roy Pow's Powerurus are others with low temp charging protection. EG4's and SOK's are more, but probably better quality.

Thanks for the tip to check the watertight connections on the inverter switch box. Mine wasn't flooded as my shunt wasn't working due to a blown fuse. Fortunately, an easy fix- once I found the right fuse (a 1 amp metric appliance/electronics fuse.) I bought 2 and taped the extra inside the box.

I have also read the problems with the WFCO "auto detect" converters. As I mostly boondock, I plan on relying on the 400 watt solar panels and Victron charge controller to top off the batteries and keep fully charged. I even installed a separate breaker to turn off the WFCO converter charger all together. The WFCO will only come into play the rare times I am plugged in. If you are going to replace the converter charger, I think Progressive Dynamics makes a lithium capable upgrade that will slide into the WFCO. I installed a Progressive on a previous RV and it was a good choice.