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Old 09-19-2022, 11:14 AM   #1
Momwifecop
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Another clueless newbie

After scouring the towing questions and trying to plug my numbers into the equations, I'm STILL unable to figure this out! Admittedly, math is not my forte, and this is my first time towing anything. This is the info I have:

2019 FORD F150 3.5 ECOBOOST:
Not to exceed 1714 lbs on the yellow/white sticker
10,600 tow capacity

KEYSTONE PASSPORT:
GVWR 7700 lbs

Hitch: 750 lbs

Can someone please help me make sense of this? Can this F150 pull this trailer?

Thank you!
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Old 09-19-2022, 11:26 AM   #2
chuckster57
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Welcome to the forum

First off congrats on the pending retirement, if I decifer your username your in Law enforcement? I retired in 2008, before it got as dangerous as it is now. Thank you for your service!!!

Now to your question. The tag in the drivers door says the maximum amount of people and cargo your truck is rated for is 1714 pounds. That means everyone and everything “in” the truck should not exceed that weight. The weight on the hitch is “in” the truck since the hitch is attached to the frame.

Figure out how much you, anybody else and all the cargo weighs and subtract that from the 1714 figure. That will tell you how much tongue weight you can legally add.

I say legally, because lots of people add things like airbags, thinking it increases capacity. The tag is the legal limit unless a certified shop makes alterations and issues a new federal tag.

It’s normal to use a percentage of the trailer GVWR to calculate the tongue weight, and choice of hitch will affect that number.

Others will chime in, hope your head isn’t spinning
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Old 09-19-2022, 11:30 AM   #3
Momwifecop
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Hello and thank you! Yessss, retiring from law enforcement after 25, woohooo! My head IS spinning from all of these numbers! Like many, I was mislead into only looking at the tow capacity of the truck!
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Old 09-19-2022, 11:36 AM   #4
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Armed with the knowledge gained here, you have time to make changes if needed. Let us know how you decide to proceed.
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Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 09-19-2022, 11:38 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momwifecop View Post
After scouring the towing questions and trying to plug my numbers into the equations, I'm STILL unable to figure this out! Admittedly, math is not my forte, and this is my first time towing anything. This is the info I have:

2019 FORD F150 3.5 ECOBOOST:
Not to exceed 1714 lbs on the yellow/white sticker
10,600 tow capacity

KEYSTONE PASSPORT:
GVWR 7700 lbs

Hitch: 750 lbs

Can someone please help me make sense of this? Can this F150 pull this trailer?

Thank you!
Until you actually take your truck/camper to a weigh station and get actual weights, the usual approximation of your tongue weight is 13 percent of the gross weight of the trailer. In this case, 1001 lbs. The "hitch" weight listed in specs is for a trailer that in reality doesn't exist as it is bare from the factory and you will actually be loading your trailer. The safe number to use is the gross weight of the trailer because you may end up loading to capacity.

In your case, take the 1001 lbs guestimated and add weight of passengers, cargo in truck and the weight of the hitch and that will give you the payload you are imposing on the truck. If passengers, cargo (in truck) and hitch total less than 713 lbs you are good.
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Old 09-19-2022, 11:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momwifecop View Post
Hello and thank you! Yessss, retiring from law enforcement after 25, woohooo! My head IS spinning from all of these numbers! Like many, I was mislead into only looking at the tow capacity of the truck!
RV salesman are notorious for saying, "Oh, you've got a half ton pickup? Heck you can tow anything we've got on the lot"......

SAE Tow Certification is what's used to attain that "max towing weight" sticker. It was derived by a specific test process that includes a specificly configured flatbed trailer, carefully loaded with heavy cargo (typically concrete blocks or steel ingots) that are loaded to achieve a "perfect 10% tongue weight"... That trailer is hitched to the truck and towed on a "perfectly smooth test track" that's dry and the test is performed on a sunny day with no rain and no excess temperature conditions.... In other words, "ideal conditions", and then the manufacturer uses those "ideals" to advertise a maximum tow capacity that "beats the competition".....

In short, the "maximum tow rating" seldom meets the "real world towing conditions" that you'll encounter with a travel trailer that can't be loaded perfectly, towed on a smooth dry road where there's no crosswinds and no 18 wheel traffic to push you across the highway with his "bow wake"....

You'll find that there's much more to safe towing than "just being under the numbers"... While numbers are important, there's a lot to consider that detracts from that "maximum towing capacity" beyond "just how much a trailer weighs.....
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:04 PM   #7
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Short answer, absent weighing a 'fully loaded for camping' truck:

7700 GVWR trailer @ 13% (general rule of thumb) = 1,000 lbs of tongue weight.

Add to that 100 lbs for a weight distribution hitch = 1,100 lbs of tongue weight.

To that 1,110 lbs, add

The weight of ALL occupants in the truck.
The weight of ALL other gear gear in the truck (luggage, firewood, coolers, toolbox etc.) that you will bring when camping.

Is your total LESS than your 1,714 sticker value? If so, you are under payload, and thus under your truck's GVWR.

When you are new to all these ratings, figures etc., it's easy to over-complicate things...especially when talking about 'payload'. I know it sure baffled me.

Just remember that available payload is simply this: Your truck's listed GVWR minus what it weighs at any given point in time....that's it. Whatever is left after you subtract the two is the 'payload' you have available to include whatever is left. Did you weigh your truck with all people but no hitch and trailer attached? No problem, just subtract the weight of these 'not included' things from GVWR and see what's left to carry the gear, the hitch and the estimated tongue weight.
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:21 PM   #8
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Wow! Thank you for all of these great answers! It's overwhelming, but you guys made it much more clear. Thank you!
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:58 PM   #9
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Welcome to the forums and good luck with your RVing quest! It is a great and wonderful way of life.

To add one more amount of complexity to your numbers equation? Remember, when you add water to your fresh water tank, or there is water in your waste (black and grey) tanks, that is also an additional weight factor and part of that total carrying capacity of the trailer that subtracts from the weight you can add in cargo and passengers. Water is a little over 8 pounds a gallon. A 50 gallon fresh water tank will add 400 pounds. Depending on the location of the tank (forward of the axle or behind the axle), you can add another substantial amount of weight to the tongue. (same goes for your black and grey tanks also).

Just something to be keenly aware of!
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Old 09-19-2022, 01:10 PM   #10
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****NOTE: I posted this in another thread. It appeared this thread was more active so moved it here. Did not re-read all the posts in this thread so there may be some redundancy in mine. If so I apologize.


OP looking at the floorplan and the bunks I am assuming children?? If so how many and how old? I ask because they can/will drive a lot of weight along with your style of camping, or your camping expectations.

I've been in an Ecoboost Ford but never towed with one. I've read many folks that are very happy with their towing abilities for small/midsized trailers. The weight facet is completely different than "pulling". Without fully loaded scale weights the only thing you can do is guesstimate and the only safe way to do that is to use the max gvwr vs something lighter....because you always add stuff. As far a "pulling" the trailer with your truck I doubt you will have any issues.

That trailer has 1,534lbs. of cargo capacity which sounds like a lot. In an RV, which is just like a little house (and ends up equipped like it) it isn't. If you are trying to accommodate the grownups and children too the things required, whether cookware/food or bedding, gets more involved, and heavier. Along with all the things you and the kids will want on hand in the trailer also keep in mind that towing a RV around the countryside also demands other things like tools, compressors etc. in the event you have a breakdown of some kind somewhere. All those things can add up quickly, far quicker than one imagines, then max or exceed your payload rating.

The payload limit is there to keep you safe. It tells you how much "load" you can place in the truck before you then reach the limits of some of the components. The payload is derived by taking the maximum the truck can weigh (gvwr) and subtracting the actual weight of the truck - that little yellow/white sticker tells you what it was when it rolled off to come to you (or whoever). Typically folks add things when they get a new truck; floor mats, bed cover, etc. etc. They all get deducted from that initial payload sticker. Don't let the numbers confuse you; they are there to help you and keep you/yours safe.

Fully loaded to gvwr that trailer would carry a tongue weight of about 1000lbs. Which has been talked about. Many say they won't load that much, and some folks that travel with a coffee pot and a weekends worth of food don't. If you go for any length of time, take the fun things the kids will want AND the things that the grownups want that 15xx lbs. will go quick.

The truck; virtually all 1/2 ton trucks come with P rated passenger car tires. Take them off and put on LT (light truck) tires in the proper size. They are much stronger and give you a lot more stability when pulling the trailer. That's a long trailer so get a good weight distribution hitch; I used an Equalizer 4 point and it was very good. When the trailer weighs more than the tow truck it wants to wag the dog so to speak.

Don't let all this dampen your spirits! It's part of RVing so just be aware, get those weights so you know where you are and how much you can load then go have fun. An RV IS a completely different, fun experience that the entire family will not only enjoy, they will LOVE it. So now, tell the dealer to hurry up and get the trailer to you, hit the local RV centers to get essentials (BTW you need to get a EMS and a tire pressure monitoring system - I use TST 507), jump online an order a set of Magma nesting cookware (what I carry) and get ready for that first great trip! Fire away with questions and concerns, whatever it is I figure one of us has been there and done that. Good luck.
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Old 09-19-2022, 01:24 PM   #11
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Yikes! Didn't think of that! Thank you!
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Old 09-19-2022, 02:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momwifecop View Post
Yikes! Didn't think of that! Thank you!
Well! Now that you know what pots to use you are almost already a seasoned camper. I have never heard Magma pots but if Danny uses them they must be a good set. We personally buy pots and pans from Walmart and not sure of the brand but I am pretty sure they are imported hehehehe

Truck tires (LT) are a must. Danny mentioned an EMS. Your Passport likely has 30A service so a 30A EMS is a MUST HAVE. Power at RV parks is IFFY at times. Unstable electrical service can fry the electrical gizmos in your camper. I use a Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X 30 Amp EMS with Surge Protection and Camping World has a great price on them right now.
https://www.campingworld.com/progres...8l-102484.html

Next thing is a TPMS... tire pressure monitoring system. I use a different one from most of the folks (TST507) because they were not in stock when my kids purchased me one for a gift a couple years ago (Covid shortage I guess). Mine works fine but so many folks have good luck with the TST507 that it would be the one to get.

There are other things folks will argue are "must haves" but those two will top almost anyone's list. Lots of folks will camp in their driveway for a night or two for familiarization if possible. That means getting an RV 30A outlet installed and that is handy for when the trailer isn't being used if you keep it in the driveway to keep the batteries charged. Dead batteries are a bugaboo for most new campers; you have to be plugged in or the battery(s) unhooked to keep charge. A drained battery is a dead battery often.
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Old 09-19-2022, 03:05 PM   #13
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George mentioned batteries; make sure you check the water level on the battery(s) about once a month until you get a feel for how much water they will use. If you don't they will run out and ruin the battery. I use a snap in battery watering system that makes it very easy. When the time comes just ask.
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Old 09-19-2022, 03:54 PM   #14
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Wow! Who knew there were so many things to consider! I thought that I did my due diligence! Apparently not! Thank you so much for all of the great info!
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Old 09-21-2022, 07:27 AM   #15
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I don't want to sound negative but in my opinion if you plan to take this anywhere but around the block a bigger truck would probably be a wise decision I have never heard another RVer say " man I have entirely too much truck ! " I have however seen and heard the opposite

Early August we do a certain bike rally every year we got a new to us camper and truck this spring so after I convinced the bosslady that we needed a dually for the toyhauler and were all setup we went fpr a walk 5 sites down the road is an old body F250 hooked to a triple axle 40+ ft toyhauler she says see we didnt need a new truck

A week later we passed the poor guy he was on the side of the road halfway up a mountain hood up smoke / steam rolling

I just winked at her as the duramax did its thing with 15.5k behind it
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Old 09-21-2022, 08:26 AM   #16
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Many times folks find out their two vehicle isn't optimal but are upside down on payments. Hard to justify a new vehicle and more payments on top of having the old loan on the books. Perhaps a 2019 would get enough in a sale to buy a heavy duty truck so the OP can do her "thong" as well as hawghauler. Just a thought. BTW: I drive a Goldwing Roadsmith trike because I am old and the sense of balance ain't what it used to be; usually ride two up with my very young wife of 50 years.
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Old 09-21-2022, 08:49 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by wiredgeorge View Post
Many times folks find out their two vehicle isn't optimal but are upside down on payments. Hard to justify a new vehicle and more payments on top of having the old loan on the books. Perhaps a 2019 would get enough in a sale to buy a heavy duty truck so the OP can do her "thong" as well as hawghauler. Just a thought. BTW: I drive a Goldwing Roadsmith trike because I am old and the sense of balance ain't what it used to be; usually ride two up with my very young wife of 50 years.

Sorry about the typo I have big thumbs that cover about 4 keys on this phone

Also glad to hear you're doing what is required to stay in the wind were planning a trike build for the little lady here in the next couple yrs she's starting to have lower back hip issues and is afraid shes going to drop it at a stop
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Old 09-21-2022, 10:55 AM   #18
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Nice I had an 81 gs1100e that was a fun bike that one went away for the Yamaha fj1200 that's one I wish id kept but my simple butt traded towards a softball that was twice the weight and half the bike
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Old 09-21-2022, 05:18 PM   #19
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Redirect! OP is new and has serious questions and concerns, she wasn't concerned about your bikes in the past, now nor your experiences with them.... Lets help her. I thought about posting my "bike" experiences but......
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Old 09-21-2022, 07:40 PM   #20
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Redirect! OP is new and has serious questions and concerns, she wasn't concerned about your bikes in the past, now nor your experiences with them.... Lets help her. I thought about posting my "bike" experiences but......
I deleted the offending messages. I did indeed answer her question that was asked initially by the way.
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