TT Dual Axle - Tire Mfr / LR / psi / Pairings?

[Dlawhun]

Just back from a weekend RV trip w/ my 2018 Keystone Hideout TT--dual axle. Had--or just noticed--a blowout on my left rear right before arrival at my destination. Right front had also contracted a nail so had it patched before it blew--I questioned the location of the nail to which he sd he patched it while "others" would have replaced the tire due to proximity to sidewall. Then, on the way home my right rear blew. Took an inventory of my four in-service + spare tires & wondering if perhaps I've got multiple potential issues between LR, age & mfr. based on what I'm reading in some o' these posts. Following is my current inventory incl BOD (Born on Date), & psi (Max) for my five ST205/75/R14...

LF: Karrier (OE Brand?)
BOD: 0621
LR C
60 psi


LR: Gladiator
BOD: 1221
LR D
65 psi


RF: Primewell
BOD: 2221
LR C
50 psi


RR: Karrier (OE Brand?)
BOD: 3317
LR C
60 psi


Spare: Hartland
BOD: 1622
LR C
50 psi

What needs "fixing"? . . . or just scrap them all & go w/ all new Brand x?

[HouseMouse]

Just my opinion... Start with all new Tires. All the same brand. All from a quality manufacturer. Assuming all else is working or in good order with the TT. Follow the specifications of the tire sticker that is on the trailer someplace. Start with a Baseline you know that is fresh.

[wiredgeorge]

Never a great idea to use mixed brands with different inflation. Buy some Carlisle Radial Trail HD or Goodyear endurance. Either of those brands will give reliable service and purchase a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) so you can see when a tire starts to loose pressure as you are traveling. A lot more peace of mind using quality tires and a TPMS.

[JRTJH]

You don't state the load range of any of your tires. 205 75R14 LRC tires are rated at 1760 lbs@50PSI and 205 75R14 LRD are rated at 2040 lbs@65PSI.

Depending on the tires on your trailer, if they are LRC, some of them are over-inflated and if they are LRD, some of them are "critically under-inflated".

Your trailer was built around the time that RVIA's new standards for tires was incorproated. So, depending on the weight of your trailer and the tires installed, you could be "relatively safe with some reserve capacity" or you could be "at the bare minimum capacity and any reduction in pressure could make you vulnerable to being overloaded on your tire capacity"...

You need a "real world weight" on your trailer axles to determine how much weight you are "really carrying on those tires" so you can make some sound decisions on what tires are required to support "YOUR TRAILER WEIGHT", not the weights in some chart or in some old brochure found on the internet.....

At this point, you need 5 new tires from a quality manufacturer, that adequately support your trailer weight. The size of those tires should come from an actual weight of the trailer and confirmed accurate based on the GVWR/tire requirements decals that are located on the front roadside corner of your trailer. Since your trailer is "previously owned" (I believe) then I'd want to verify the weight rather than leave it to chance that a previous owner might have added things that significantly change the weight of the trailer when it left the factory.....

[dutchmensport]

Scrap them all and start over. You have mixed tires and you've already experienced blowouts. What else do you need to convince you.

There are some good brands out there. There's been lots and lots of debate but all seem good and at other times they are questionable? But mostly good:

Goodyear, Carlisle, Hercules, Michelin, and Sailun are the top contenders.

[sourdough]

For an 18 trailer that is quite a mish mash of mismatched tires. You probably have at least one that's overloaded and nearly all are off brand. I would dump them all and get 5 tires of a good, reputable brand in a load range that would give you adequate capacity reserves before the next trip. If not your tire woes will just continue.

[CWtheMan]

According to the specs on your trailer it has 3500# vehicle certified axles. It came with old school tires with just 10# of load capacity reserves per tire.

The ST205/75R14 can be purchased with a load range "D". Those LRD tires will meet the RVIA load capacity reserves for your axels when inflated to 65 PSI.

Whatever you decide, you will need valve stems for the maximum inflation pressure of the tires as depicted on the tire sidewalls. Wheels having a PSI rating must be able to support 65 PSI.

[bsmith0404]

IMO, your spare is the only good tire you have, I run Hartland tires on all my trailers. The only problem is it’s a LRC instead of an LRD. Unfortunately, looks like you need 5 new tires that are all matching LRD tires.

[flybouy]

Interesting that you have 5 different tires with all the same load range (C) with varying air pressures listed. Here's just one of the issues with replacing one tire at a time, you loose track and don't know what you have or how old any one tire is. Did you buy this trailer with this variety of tires?

I'd recommend as others have stated replace all 5 with same size D rated tires of a quality brand and inflate to max cold pressure listed on sidewall. Start off with a good reputable brand and if the tire replacements are due to inferior tires then that will stop. If tire replacements are due to rubbing curbs then more driving experience or perhaps training is in order. Tires with C & D sidewall ratings are not very forgiving when it comes to sidewall impacts.

[Camp CA]

Lots of hideout moels https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/specs...m1496-y2018-t5, which one do you have? Reason is to confirm the GVWR and minimum tire load. Then select a tire with a load rating that exceeds the tire load by a safe margin. At the very least select a D load tire. For example, a ST225 -75R15 D has a 2540 lb load capacity at 65 psig and a ST225-7515 E has a 2830 lb load capacity at 80 psig https://tirepressure.org/st225-75r15. Also, an ST tire is a better selection for a travel trailer vs. LT since it reportely has a stronger sidewall https://www.etrailer.com/question-32...20most%20cases. Finally, agree with others to purchase all new tires, including spare, that are the same. For comparison, my fifth wheel trailer tires are ST with a G rated with 4080 lb load capacity at 110 psig.

[bobbecky]

Hopefully you can find quality tires for your rig with TANDEM AXLES, not DUAL AXLES. Dual axles are like what is on a pickup truck with four tires on the rear axle, and tandem axles are two separate axles, each with a single tire on each end of both the axles.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

Scrap them all and start over. You have mixed tires and you've already experienced blowouts. What else do you need to convince you.

There are some good brands out there. There's been lots and lots of debate but all seem good and at other times they are questionable? But mostly good:

Goodyear, Carlisle, Hercules, Michelin, and Sailun are the top contenders.

David, I know you are being helpful but the guy has 14" rims. Not sure about Hercules, don't believe Michelin sells ST tires and Sailun doesn't make 14" tires. The two main contenders for 14" rims are Carlisle and Goodyear.

[CWtheMan]

Originally Posted by Camp CA

Lots of hideout moels https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/specs...m1496-y2018-t5, which one do you have? Reason is to confirm the GVWR and minimum tire load. Then select a tire with a load rating that exceeds the tire load by a safe margin. At the very least select a D load tire. For example, a ST225 -75R15 D has a 2540 lb load capacity at 65 psig and a ST225-7515 E has a 2830 lb load capacity at 80 psig https://tirepressure.org/st225-75r15. Also, an ST tire is a better selection for a travel trailer vs. LT since it reportely has a stronger sidewall https://www.etrailer.com/question-32...20most%20cases. Finally, agree with others to purchase all new tires, including spare, that are the same. For comparison, my fifth wheel trailer tires are ST with a G rated with 4080 lb load capacity at 110 psig.

RV trailers are not designed for original equipment tires that support the trailer’s GVWR. The trailer certification process for tires is simple. The trailer manufacturer MUST publish a recommended trailer tongue weight. When that weight is added to the trailer’s total certified GAWRs, the result must not be less than the trailer’s certified GVWR. Therefore OEM/OE tire fitments are required to carry the maximum load of the vehicle’s certified GAWRs.

The 10% RVIA tire load capacity reserve recommendation does not affect FMVSS standards. RVIA is a private organization that oversees RV trailer safety for its members. They have no government regulatory authority. However, there is a “catch 22” factor that will ultimately require load capacity reserves. Within the existing standards there is a standard for replacement tires. It reads – in part – that replacement tires MUST provide a load capacity equal to or greater than what the OE tires provided at their recommended cold inflation pressures.

[CWtheMan]

You folks must know by now that I just love to spout safety standards and tire standards in general. When a door is opened, I just have to take a peek and hopefully make comments that are useable. When someone just doesn't understand where I'm coming from, ask and I'll find and provide the regulation or standard I'm quoting from.

[Dlawhun]

Thanks all for the well thought out responses, guidance, suggestions & opinions. So, I have assimilated further enlightenment on my particulars for your reading pleasure (& further opinions).

Checking the mfr decal on the front left side of my (original owner) 2018 Keystone Hideout Travel Trlr tandem axle I have: 7,825 lb GVWR, Load Range C, 60 PSI, 3,500 lb per axle GAWR--1,750 lb per tire? I presume my hitch is responsible for carrying the balance (825 lb) of the total GVWR.

My Karrier (OE), Gladiator, Primewell tires were made in China while the Hartland was made in Thailand.

So, technically, it would appear I could stick with LRC tires based on the mfr Decal but for quality, safety, longevity, etc. purposes I should at least go with a higher standard tire, e.g., Goodyear Endurance or Carlisle Radial Trail HD perhaps. I see Discount has them for $136, $115 respectively in my size AND in the LRD (vs. LRC) version. (I'm toying with keeping the relatively new Gladiator (LRD) as a spare to cut my losses pulling all the other tires.) And then there's still the TPMS acquisition--TST507 perhaps--to round out my makeover.

What say ye now?

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by Dlawhun

Thanks all for the well thought out responses, guidance, suggestions & opinions. So, I have assimilated further enlightenment on my particulars for your reading pleasure (& further opinions).

Checking the mfr decal on the front left side of my (original owner) 2018 Keystone Hideout Travel Trlr tandem axle I have: 7,825 lb GVWR, Load Range C, 60 PSI, 3,500 lb per axle GAWR--1,750 lb per tire? I presume my hitch is responsible for carrying the balance (825 lb) of the total GVWR.

My Karrier (OE), Gladiator, Primewell tires were made in China while the Hartland was made in Thailand.

So, technically, it would appear I could stick with LRC tires based on the mfr Decal but for quality, safety, longevity, etc. purposes I should at least go with a higher standard tire, e.g., Goodyear Endurance or Carlisle Radial Trail HD perhaps. I see Discount has them for $136, $115 respectively in my size AND in the LRD (vs. LRC) version. (I'm toying with keeping the relatively new Gladiator (LRD) as a spare to cut my losses pulling all the other tires.) And then there's still the TPMS acquisition--TST507 perhaps--to round out my makeover.

What say ye now?

I am pretty sure they will have tire shops in your area that will mount the tires if you drag your camper in and sit inside for awhile. I use a tire shop in Castroville TX for this. Order the tires from Walmart @ $86.99 delivered (plus TX sales tax) and get them mounted at a tire shop; my shop is either $15 a tire or so. Carlisle LR D
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carlisle-...7?athbdg=L1700

[Dlawhun]

Oh, wow...I see that now--$91.99 for my 14". Is there any mkt for gently used trlr tires, e.g., LetGo, NextDoor, etc.?

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by Dlawhun

Oh, wow...I see that now--$91.99 for my 14". Is there any mkt for gently used trlr tires, e.g., LetGo, NextDoor, etc.?

Probably not. I just toss old tire into my old tire pile. I tried burning some motorcycle tires once and this isn't something I tried a 2nd time.

[CWtheMan]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

I am pretty sure they will have tire shops in your area that will mount the tires if you drag your camper in and sit inside for awhile. I use a tire shop in Castroville TX for this. Order the tires from Walmart @ $86.99 delivered (plus TX sales tax) and get them mounted at a tire shop; my shop is either $15 a tire or so. Carlisle LR D
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carlisle-...7?athbdg=L1700

Yes, that would bring your tires up to the RVIA recommended standard.

[wrvond]

Originally Posted by CWtheMan

You folks must know by now that I just love to spout safety standards and tire standards in general. When a door is opened, I just have to take a peek and hopefully make comments that are useable. When someone just doesn't understand where I'm coming from, ask and I'll find and provide the regulation or standard I'm quoting from.

Personally I find your posts quite enlightening.

Originally Posted by Dlawhun

Thanks all for the well thought out responses, guidance, suggestions & opinions. So, I have assimilated further enlightenment on my particulars for your reading pleasure (& further opinions).

Checking the mfr decal on the front left side of my (original owner) 2018 Keystone Hideout Travel Trlr tandem axle I have: 7,825 lb GVWR, Load Range C, 60 PSI, 3,500 lb per axle GAWR--1,750 lb per tire? I presume my hitch is responsible for carrying the balance (825 lb) of the total GVWR.

My Karrier (OE), Gladiator, Primewell tires were made in China while the Hartland was made in Thailand.

So, technically, it would appear I could stick with LRC tires based on the mfr Decal but for quality, safety, longevity, etc. purposes I should at least go with a higher standard tire, e.g., Goodyear Endurance or Carlisle Radial Trail HD perhaps. I see Discount has them for $136, $115 respectively in my size AND in the LRD (vs. LRC) version. (I'm toying with keeping the relatively new Gladiator (LRD) as a spare to cut my losses pulling all the other tires.) And then there's still the TPMS acquisition--TST507 perhaps--to round out my makeover.

What say ye now?

I was going to suggest WalMart as well but George beat me to it. If you plan on using the external TPMS then I recommend you get metal valve stems installed.
Since I live on a hill I'm not comfortable with lifting all four tires off the ground at the same time, so I removed the wheels one axle at a time and took them to a tire shop about 12 miles away. Ten bucks apiece and two trips and Robert's your mother's brother.