Batteries crapped out

[NH_Bulldog]

If you are thinking that your converter is shot, running any of those 12v items will be unaffected by plugging into a 120v generator, or shore power since the converter changes 120vac to 12vdc to support and charge the batteries. A bad converter will have no 12vdc output to perform that task. As long as you have a way to recharge the batteries, you can run lights, slide, jacks, stabilizers, etc. with a bad converter.

[Alpine Custom Upgrade]

Originally Posted by Moose29

So, on our 5th night off grid and running on batteries ( 3rd outing off grid and no previous issues )
We were camped in the trees, so not alot of direct sun on the 200w dealer installed rooftop solar.
Going to bed the batteries said 11.2 V. They have never been that low. So turned off HW tank, water pump, and HVAC, left the fridge on.
At 2:30am our gas detector beeped as our voltage dropped to 7.5 V , no LED lights would turn on.
So in the am, I started the Honda 2000 generator, but it did not seem to do any charging over 1-1/2 hours.
I had to pull out the jumper cables to the truck to pull in the slide, awning, and stablizer jacks before I hooked up . Then the power jack had enough power to lower onto the ball.
After an hour on the road, the batteries were reading 13V > as usuall!
When trying to charge the batteries with the generator, should it not have given me enough power to turn on the lights and pull in the slide, awning,jacks?
It powered enough for the MW and theater seats to run.
1 month of warrenty left on rig

Any comments would be helpful.

The battery chargers I have at my shop would not "see" 7.5 volts. If a battery ever gets that low I put a jump box on it so the charger can see enough voltage to begin charging the battery. Not sure if that would apply to an invertor.

[440scout]

Moose29, your solar panel at 200 watts is usually capable of a little over 10 amps charge. So that 10 amp fuse seems a little under sized. If it were me, I would replaced that fuse with a 15 amp. Ideally a 12 or 13 amp fuse would be close to perfect but they're not available in that fuse type.

[Moose29]

So, My converter is toast, ( 120v in and no DC out, fuses are good ) goes in to be replaced under warrenty in 2 weeks.
But want to get out before then.
Looking to get into a 30 amp serviced site for 3 days.
Think there would be an issue with me hooking up a battery charger directly to the batteries ( 2x6v) if the 200w solar doesnt keep up?
Thoughts please.
The converter is also a battery charger and does not affect the solar controller.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by Moose29

So, My converter is toast, ( 120v in and no DC out, fuses are good )
Think there would be an issue with me hooking up a battery charger directly to the batteries ( 2x6v) if the 200w solar doesnt keep up?

If I were going to do that, I'd make sure the converter cables were disconnected from your 12V harness first.

You know the converter is crapped out, but you don't know exactly how. I'd hate for you to backfeed 13.8V+ into it from the charger and have it pop or burn up.

[Moose29]

Good point.
Thanks

[Lee]

Also, I have had problems running solar and a stand alone battery charger at the same time and this is why.

Say you start with the solar operating and it is applying a trickle charge to the batteries of 13.5V.

When you attach the stand alone battery charger, the charger will see the 13.5V from the solar and think your batteries are charged thus not going into bulk charge mode but trickle mode. This will take forever to charge a depleted battery bank.

I would remove (disconnect) the solar before attaching the charger.

[Moose29]

Another good point
Thanks Lee