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Old 11-16-2021, 04:16 PM   #21
flybouy
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Yes, replace the cable from the junction box. What size wire gauge is the "extebsion cord" you used? Obviously keep your rlectrical load to a minimum until it's fixed properly. Only use few lights and run fridge and water heater on gas only.
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Old 11-16-2021, 04:22 PM   #22
wiredgeorge
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Problem found. It was the black wire in the cord. Did a continuity test and found it bad. Took a broken electrical cord, used all 3 wires and hooked that up to plug and breaker and we have power.

Question I have is obviously the cord needs replaced. The other odd thing is the wire at the plug end is strand, the wire going into the breaker is solid. Obviously they meet somewhere. There is a small junction box in the receptacle where the hose is stored on the RV. Can you replace the hose from there? Thinking the in and out movement of that 13 year old cord would break in that area.

Figured all 3 wires is about the equivalent of that solid wire for 30 amps for a temp fix.
I replaced my cord which enters the camper through a "mouse hole" or whatever that opening is called. I bought a US made cord. It might make sense to buy a 30A extension cord and cut off the female end and strip the three wires and connect it to the breaker side of your converter. I pulled my power panel out for some room and fortunately mine is located below the two silverware drawers so i had plenty of room to work behind the breaker/converter. There were a couple of tie downs located to hold the cord in place. Just connect the white wire to the neutral buss (the one with the white wires connected, the green to the ground buss and the black wire to the 30A breaker by loosening the set screw, pulling out the old black wire and connecting the new (stripped about a 1/2".
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Old 11-16-2021, 04:55 PM   #23
Winder31
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Yes, replace the cable from the junction box. What size wire gauge is the "extebsion cord" you used? Obviously keep your rlectrical load to a minimum until it's fixed properly. Only use few lights and run fridge and water heater on gas only.
Gauge unknown but will keep use to a minimum as you suggest. Iím assuming you have to cut open the bottom of the rv to access this junction box? Canít possibly do it through that little hole.
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Old 11-16-2021, 05:32 PM   #24
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Gauge unknown but will keep use to a minimum as you suggest. Iím assuming you have to cut open the bottom of the rv to access this junction box? Canít possibly do it through that little hole.
Can you carefully remove the converter/fuse panel to access behind it? Run the new cord to either the old junction box or just mount a new junction box where you can reach and connect to the panel
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Old 11-16-2021, 06:09 PM   #25
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Can you carefully remove the converter/fuse panel to access behind it? Run the new cord to either the old junction box or just mount a new junction box where you can reach and connect to the panel
Maybe. Will try to get the face cover off the box in the mouse hole to see whatís in there. Lot easier to cut a hole in bottom and patch then try to run a cord all the way to the breaker panel.
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Old 11-16-2021, 07:29 PM   #26
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You shouldn't need to cut the bottom. On the inside there should be a removable panel or shelf to acess that space where the cable is stored. That's a very typical setup if the panelbisbon the opposite side (door side) znd the cablenis on the driver's side. In our camper there's a panel held by 2 screws under the pantry.
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Old 11-17-2021, 06:49 AM   #27
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You shouldn't need to cut the bottom. On the inside there should be a removable panel or shelf to acess that space where the cable is stored. That's a very typical setup if the panelbisbon the opposite side (door side) znd the cablenis on the driver's side. In our camper there's a panel held by 2 screws under the pantry.
Ok but doesnít look like it. This is insidd the junction box...
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Old 11-17-2021, 08:21 AM   #28
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Fender skirt comes off. Thatís the access.
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Old 11-17-2021, 08:22 AM   #29
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Looks like you're lucky that trailer didn't catch on fire.
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Old 11-17-2021, 03:52 PM   #30
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Looks like you're lucky that trailer didn't catch on fire.
Yep. Appears to be original based on power cord head. New cord in, all is good. Only access to that junction box on this model is to drop that skirt off. Not a big deal, just like 19 screws to undo and a few staples.

2 weeks with this thing and 2 major problems. Electrical and water heater. First night we hooked up water and Niagara Falls in the kitchen. Previous owner obviously didnít winterize it last year, so Atwood was split like a watermelon. I can highly recommend the Girard tankless. Easy install, very quiet, endless hot water.
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Old 11-17-2021, 03:55 PM   #31
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That aluminum "fender skirt" is called J wrap.
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Old 11-21-2021, 09:59 AM   #32
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I had used my Montana 380 for more than a year and finally was losing power intermittently. Thought it was a pedestal problem while camping. Finally got home and continued to have the problem. After numerous checks I ran the problem down to the fifth wheel female connection. Pulling it out found the black wire and plug totally burned, with dark rUnning back an inch or so into the fifth wheel wiring. Ended up cutting off a couple inches of wiring and replacing entire plug in system. It was a scared looking mess. Recommend trouble shooting until you find the issue when you have an electrical problem!
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:01 AM   #33
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You may want to check the GFCI outlet and make sure it hasn't tripped.
This happens every so often in our Hideout and affects all other plugs in the trailer.
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Old 11-21-2021, 01:16 PM   #34
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Hey,

Living in this new to us trailer for a few months while house is finished. 2009 Laredo. Left to run an errand this morning and came back to heat up my coffee in the microwave and no light on. Space heater plugged in not working. No AC power. No breakers tripped, everything just dead. Plugged into a 50 amp connection with a 30 amp adapter. Cycled those breakers, power checks good at outlet. Guy Iím buying the house from says there should be a 30 amp main breaker somewhere. Iíve looked in and out but only electrical I see is the breaker and fuse box. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks!
When that happened to us, I chased it down to a faulty auto-reset breaker located after (in-line) the converter and before the battery.
Once replaced ($11.00), no more AC issues.
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Old 11-21-2021, 03:47 PM   #35
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When that happened to us, I chased it down to a faulty auto-reset breaker located after (in-line) the converter and before the battery.
Once replaced ($11.00), no more AC issues.
That sounds like a 12 volt breaker, it would not affect the 120 volt ac.
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